alignment question?
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 702
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From: Lakeland, Fl
alignment question? I went and had my local tire place put my car to the specs that trackbird suggested:
camber -1.3 to -1.5
caster +4.5
toe 1/32 out
they got as close as they could and told me that my springs were sagging so they could not get any closer. The car only has 30k on it. Here is what the print out says:
camber actual 0.92*left and 0.94* right
caster 4.83 left and 5.25 right
toe 0.04* left and 0.02* right
How close did they come. I do not think they came real close at all. They told me that they could get the caster closer but that they would have to sacrafice the camber. Any one have any opinions?
camber -1.3 to -1.5
caster +4.5
toe 1/32 out
they got as close as they could and told me that my springs were sagging so they could not get any closer. The car only has 30k on it. Here is what the print out says:
camber actual 0.92*left and 0.94* right
caster 4.83 left and 5.25 right
toe 0.04* left and 0.02* right
How close did they come. I do not think they came real close at all. They told me that they could get the caster closer but that they would have to sacrafice the camber. Any one have any opinions?
I would sacrifice camber for the correct castor settings. And, for street only use, -.7 to -1.5 will work for camber. I had mine at -1.5 until we set the castor and it dropped back to -1.3. But, if your car is not lowered, I'd expect less negative camber. Having mis matched castor can cause the car to pull to one side. I'd ask them to match the castor and go from there. If setting the castor at 4.5 on both sides gives you say -.9 camber on one side and -1.1 on the other, set the castor at 4.5 and set the camber at -.9 (make them match, even if at a slightly lower value).
That's what I'd do.
That's what I'd do.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 341
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From: oklahoma city
What kind of car vehicle do you have? I don't understand why a car would need springs after 30k miles, if it is an f-body there should be no sacrifice between camber and caster, the adjustment are independent.And by the way 1.5 degrees negative camber is alot for a street driven car for the front, unless the manufacturers build it that way. Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 702
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From: Lakeland, Fl
2001 TA WS6, I am going to have to go back and have them change it. I will have them get as close to 4.5 caster and then give me as much neg camber as they can. Prob will get close to -0.7 I think. like I said above, paying for something twice sucks.
Thread Starter
TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 702
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From: Lakeland, Fl
no other real game in town and the dealer wanted 100.00 just to put it up on the rack. Custome alignment was going to be another 50.00. I am out in BFE and would have to drive an hour or so to get to a performace shop to do this. I did not think it would be that big of a deal. It is my fault for not knowing enough to tell them to get as much camber as possible then as much caster. Live and learn. 
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TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 341
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From: oklahoma city
They didn't do a good job anyway!-.7 camber on both sides will still give you good handling and keep the wear off those expensive tires. Caster at +4.5 to +5.5 is ok as long as the cross caster is below .5 degrees and more the car may pull to the lower side of caster. I have my caster set at 5.5 degrees on both sides because it made it more stable at 100+mph.NOTE this caster of 5.5 is out of GM specs but will not cause wear. I do alignments at shop all day 5 days a week and this is were I set mine and have been very happy. Camber .6 negative both sides
Caster 5.5 degrees positive both sides
Toe at .10, or .05 each side, hope this helps, and I hope you don't have to pay again!
Caster 5.5 degrees positive both sides
Toe at .10, or .05 each side, hope this helps, and I hope you don't have to pay again!
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Originally Posted by zombie1
:if it is an f-body there should be no sacrifice between camber and caster, the adjustment are independent.
I was standing under my car when it was aligned. I had -1.5 camber on both sides, but the castor was off. As we pulled the castor in to the 4.5 degree setting, my camber slid back to -1.3 and that adjustment was maxed. So, it will/can impact camber on an F-body, I've seen it on a Hunter rack.
Originally Posted by pushinfreight
It is my fault for not knowing enough to tell them to get as much camber as possible then as much caster. Live and learn.
I think you meant:
...to tell them to set the castor at 4.5 and get as much (equal) camber as they can.
He is correct, you can run it at 5 degrees of castor, but I (personal preference) prefer 4.5. And, -1.3 camber is "alot for a street car", but tire wear is good and handling is great. However, my car is lowered which allows it to get those numbers. On a stock height car, -.7 is often close to max for camber. If that is all they can get, take it. -.7 will work for you on the street and still be a great improvement over stock (more is better up to about -1.5, in my opinion anyway).
Staging Lane
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 63
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From: Armada Mich
FYI camber will pull to the side that is more positive, and caster will pull to the side that is more negative.
Even caster settings are more desired than even camber settings, but both are preferred.
Even caster settings are more desired than even camber settings, but both are preferred.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 341
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From: oklahoma city
Originally Posted by trackbird
I was standing under my car when it was aligned. I had -1.5 camber on both sides, but the castor was off. As we pulled the castor in to the 4.5 degree setting, my camber slid back to -1.3 and that adjustment was maxed. So, it will/can impact camber on an F-body, I've seen it on a Hunter rack.
Originally Posted by zombie1
What I meant to pushinfreight was that there is not an all or nothing, with two seperate adjustment(not including toe) the alignment shop should have gotten the alignment better than they did.
I agree with that.