pushinfreight

I went and had my local tire place put my car to the specs that trackbird suggested:
camber -1.3 to -1.5
caster +4.5
toe 1/32 out

they got as close as they could and told me that my springs were sagging so they could not get any closer. The car only has 30k on it. Here is what the print out says:

camber actual 0.92*left and 0.94* right
caster 4.83 left and 5.25 right
toe 0.04* left and 0.02* right

How close did they come. I do not think they came real close at all. They told me that they could get the caster closer but that they would have to sacrafice the camber. Any one have any opinions?

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I would sacrifice camber for the correct castor settings. And, for street only use, -.7 to -1.5 will work for camber. I had mine at -1.5 until we set the castor and it dropped back to -1.3. But, if your car is not lowered, I'd expect less negative camber. Having mis matched castor can cause the car to pull to one side. I'd ask them to match the castor and go from there. If setting the castor at 4.5 on both sides gives you say -.9 camber on one side and -1.1 on the other, set the castor at 4.5 and set the camber at -.9 (make them match, even if at a slightly lower value).

That's what I'd do.

pushinfreight

Thanks, called the shop and tech had already gone home for the day. They told me they will have to charge me again. I hate paying for something twice.

zombie1

What kind of car vehicle do you have? I don't understand why a car would need springs after 30k miles, if it is an f-body there should be no sacrifice between camber and caster, the adjustment are independent.And by the way 1.5 degrees negative camber is alot for a street driven car for the front, unless the manufacturers build it that way.

zombie1

Charge you again????WTF, where did you go joe bob's alignment and whiskey shop?This sounds like they took advantage of you!

pushinfreight

2001 TA WS6, I am going to have to go back and have them change it. I will have them get as close to 4.5 caster and then give me as much neg camber as they can. Prob will get close to -0.7 I think. like I said above, paying for something twice sucks.

pushinfreight

no other real game in town and the dealer wanted 100.00 just to put it up on the rack. Custome alignment was going to be another 50.00. I am out in BFE and would have to drive an hour or so to get to a performace shop to do this. I did not think it would be that big of a deal. It is my fault for not knowing enough to tell them to get as much camber as possible then as much caster. Live and learn.

zombie1

They didn't do a good job anyway!-.7 camber on both sides will still give you good handling and keep the wear off those expensive tires. Caster at +4.5 to +5.5 is ok as long as the cross caster is below .5 degrees and more the car may pull to the lower side of caster. I have my caster set at 5.5 degrees on both sides because it made it more stable at 100+mph.NOTE this caster of 5.5 is out of GM specs but will not cause wear. I do alignments at shop all day 5 days a week and this is were I set mine and have been very happy. Camber .6 negative both sides
Caster 5.5 degrees positive both sides
Toe at .10, or .05 each side, hope this helps, and I hope you don't have to pay again!

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I was standing under my car when it was aligned. I had -1.5 camber on both sides, but the castor was off. As we pulled the castor in to the 4.5 degree setting, my camber slid back to -1.3 and that adjustment was maxed. So, it will/can impact camber on an F-body, I've seen it on a Hunter rack.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I think you meant:

...to tell them to set the castor at 4.5 and get as much (equal) camber as they can.

He is correct, you can run it at 5 degrees of castor, but I (personal preference) prefer 4.5. And, -1.3 camber is "alot for a street car", but tire wear is good and handling is great. However, my car is lowered which allows it to get those numbers. On a stock height car, -.7 is often close to max for camber. If that is all they can get, take it. -.7 will work for you on the street and still be a great improvement over stock (more is better up to about -1.5, in my opinion anyway).

99BlackWS6

FYI camber will pull to the side that is more positive, and caster will pull to the side that is more negative.
Even caster settings are more desired than even camber settings, but both are preferred.

zombie1

What I meant to pushinfreight was that there is not an all or nothing, with two seperate adjustment(not including toe) the alignment shop should have gotten the alignment better than they did.

zombie1

More is not always better!That is why I love when F-bodys come into the shop with severe camber and toe wear, they usually buy tires.

trackbird

iTrader: (4)

I agree with that.