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LCA recommendation

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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 05:21 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
^^Thanks, I spoke to ya'll yesterday on the phone about these...no banging on light bumps huh?
No banging on any bumps guaranteed.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 08:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by 1 FMF
who has adjustable lower control arms with oem style rubber bushings on each end ?
BMR suspension. But you have to call them cus its not listed on their website.
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Old Dec 6, 2013 | 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
Then hell, put stock ones back on and be done with it.
This.

Or if you need new LCA,s I hear that the moog bushings in the LCA's = 1LE. (See Strano also)

Don't know if you want adjustable. IMHO, before LCAs, I would be getting shocks. I see you still have those stock blasted orange shocks on there.

Last edited by DarkblueTA; Dec 6, 2013 at 10:36 PM.
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 08:43 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by DarkblueTA
This.

Or if you need new LCA,s I hear that the moog bushings in the LCA's = 1LE. (See Strano also)

Don't know if you want adjustable. IMHO, before LCAs, I would be getting shocks. I see you still have those stock blasted orange shocks on there.
Stockers are back on but wheels not centered. I need adjustable. Yeah shocks are next, LOL
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 12:13 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
Stockers are back on but wheels not centered. I need adjustable. Yeah shocks are next, LOL
Curious to why your wheels are not close to center. Do you have an aftermarket rear? (sig. doesn't list anything).
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Old Dec 7, 2013 | 01:41 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by DarkblueTA
Curious to why your wheels are not close to center. Do you have an aftermarket rear? (sig. doesn't list anything).
I don't think they come perfectly centered from factory. Plus I'm lowered, relocation brackets, and bigger meats going on

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...7-dsc03397.jpg
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 07:56 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Founders Performance
If you are mainly street use with light track use I would recommend the 3 piece poly-joint control arms. They are on car adjustable and use a bushing design with a hard inner poly ball and very soft outer cups to allow the suspension to articulate like the factory arms do. The only purpose of the out bushings is to hold the ball in place.

I hate to be a "wet blanket", but sometimes I just can't help myself.....

I like the idea behind these LCAs, having a poly "roto-joint", so you have articulation, without the harshness of an all out Heim joint, as well as having the adjustability of length, to be able to adjust the "thrust angle" of the rear axle, relative to the car. However, that connector in the LCA looks a LOT like the same connector that has been pictured as bending, or collapsing, when used on adjustable PHBs.

I was interested in these LCAs, as I previously tried a pair of "Roto-jont" LCAs on my car, but didn't like the harshness of them, especially on the frost-heaved, pot hole strewn, roads where I live. Right now, I have a set of custom fabbed, tubular LCAs, with OE rubber bushings in them, which work well, but don't allow for thrust angle adjustment, consequently my continuing look at other options. However, my concern is the overall strength of this particular connector on the pictured LCA, as an assembly is only as strong as it's smallest component.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:09 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
I don't think they come perfectly centered from factory. Plus I'm lowered, relocation brackets, and bigger meats going on

https://ls1tech.com/forums/attachmen...7-dsc03397.jpg
I'm running 17x11's with 3.15's and I still use NON adjustable STOCK boxed LCA's. Only thing I have is an adjustable PHB to control the side to side centering of the rear end. I have no rubbing issues.

How are your wheels not centered? Front to back or side to side?
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:37 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
I'm running 17x11's with 3.15's and I still use NON adjustable STOCK boxed LCA's. Only thing I have is an adjustable PHB to control the side to side centering of the rear end. I have no rubbing issues.

How are your wheels not centered? Front to back or side to side?
I have adj. PHB and perfectly centered side to side. Front to back not perfect (I'm a little OCD on appearance) Stock 10 bolt, for now
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:59 AM
  #30  
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I'm running with Founders and the only difference in ride quality from stock is the rear is planted as all hell in the turns now and straight line the launch is hugely improved! I give them a huge thumbs up guys...
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 10:45 AM
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
I have adj. PHB and perfectly centered side to side. Front to back not perfect (I'm a little OCD on appearance) Stock 10 bolt, for now
I just measured, for those interested. Front of wheel well to tire 2 1/4".
Rear of well to tire 1 1/4".
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 04:39 PM
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Measure front wheel center to rear wheel center.

But I bet you can see a 1" difference.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 04:57 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
Measure front wheel center to rear wheel center.

But I bet you can see a 1" difference.
Yeah, once I decide on some adjustable LCA and new tires and rims installed, gonna give her a good 4 wheel alignment.
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Old Dec 8, 2013 | 09:27 PM
  #34  
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Its interesting how your rear axle is "out of square" by 1" with stock LCA's. Has it always been that way?
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:49 AM
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
Its interesting how your rear axle is "out of square" by 1" with stock LCA's. Has it always been that way?
I agree. Truthfully , just noticed after lca and relocation bracket install. I'm almost certain I read somewhere (but couldn't find it again) that rear isn't perfectly centered from the factory.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 09:54 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by Founders Performance
If you are mainly street use with light track use I would recommend the 3 piece poly-joint control arms. They are on car adjustable and use a bushing design with a hard inner poly ball and very soft outer cups to allow the suspension to articulate like the factory arms do. The only purpose of the out bushings is to hold the ball in place.

Help me out here (I'm no physicist). How can this set up articulate if the straight tube sleeve is clamped tight to the brackets?
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 10:46 AM
  #37  
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It's very possible they were not "centered from the factory", but in my mind, being centered and being square are two different thing lol.

Seems like you are dealing with a "non-squaring" issue.

I'm not adding any helpful advice, as it seems you have found the LCA's you are looking for.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by leadfoot4
I hate to be a "wet blanket", but sometimes I just can't help myself.....

I like the idea behind these LCAs, having a poly "roto-joint", so you have articulation, without the harshness of an all out Heim joint, as well as having the adjustability of length, to be able to adjust the "thrust angle" of the rear axle, relative to the car. However, that connector in the LCA looks a LOT like the same connector that has been pictured as bending, or collapsing, when used on adjustable PHBs.

I was interested in these LCAs, as I previously tried a pair of "Roto-jont" LCAs on my car, but didn't like the harshness of them, especially on the frost-heaved, pot hole strewn, roads where I live. Right now, I have a set of custom fabbed, tubular LCAs, with OE rubber bushings in them, which work well, but don't allow for thrust angle adjustment, consequently my continuing look at other options. However, my concern is the overall strength of this particular connector on the pictured LCA, as an assembly is only as strong as it's smallest component.
You are correct that other manufactures had issues with the turnbuckle on control arms they made. The reality is you just assume that everyone makes the parts using the same process and materials. The other problem with the ones that had bending issues is the location of the turnbuckle. Putting the turnbuckle in the middle of the control arms like our competitors do is just plane stupid as that is the point of the highest load on the arm. Our turnbuckles are also not made from bar stock but forged using alloy steel, machined, rolled threaded like a bolt (not cut), and finally heat treated to the same strength as a high grade rod end.
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 12:06 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by smitty2919
It's very possible they were not "centered from the factory", but in my mind, being centered and being square are two different thing lol.

Seems like you are dealing with a "non-squaring" issue.

I'm not adding any helpful advice, as it seems you have found the LCA's you are looking for.
Still undecided on whose LCA (one company following this thread offered to let me try for 45 day). I follow what you are saying on "square". Once I decide on an LCA and install new rims/tires, I WILL get it squared. Thanks,
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Old Dec 9, 2013 | 12:09 PM
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Originally Posted by ragtopz28
Help me out here (I'm no physicist). How can this set up articulate if the straight tube sleeve is clamped tight to the brackets?
The outer cups are very soft and the sole purpose is to hold the ball in center of the bushing sleeve. The compress very easy and work very well. Below is the testing that was done on these bushings.

The Testing:

We built a fixture which simulated a factory control arm mounting and tested how much force was needed to make the control arm articulate (twist) in those mounts and the results where astounding.


Poly-Joint Bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque

7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque

10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque


Standard 2 piece setup using only 85 durometer bushings:

5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque

7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque

10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. The 1/2" grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
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