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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 11:44 AM
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My project is my 95 RS. I installed a BMR K-Member and lower control arms to support the weight of the LQ4. After the install the car was sitting really high in the front. I called BMR and consulted with them on the issue which was I didnt preload the suspension before tightening the control arms. I then loosened the control arms and the car dropped to a normal looking stance. However, sitting beside my wifes 97 vert I noticed it still sits almost 1.5" higher. So WTF do I need to do without having to purchase springs and shocks?
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 01:53 PM
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What springs does your RS have, and what springs does the 97 have? Shocks?
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 02:52 PM
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Why would you need a new K member to support the weight of the LQ4. Any chance she has lowering springs on her car? Most kits drop 1.5-2 inches. Also have you driven it around for a couple days to allow the suspension to settle in.

Am I the only one thinking who buys an aftermarket K member and uses the stock shocks/springs... Don't rip at a sponsor before taking the correct actions.
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 02:54 PM
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Originally Posted by RS2SSxLS2
My project is my 95 RS. I installed a BMR K-Member and lower control arms to support the weight of the LQ4. After the install the car was sitting really high in the front. I called BMR and consulted with them on the issue which was I didnt preload the suspension before tightening the control arms. I then loosened the control arms and the car dropped to a normal looking stance. However, sitting beside my wifes 97 vert I noticed it still sits almost 1.5" higher. So WTF do I need to do without having to purchase springs and shocks?
Well I can tell you that we don't build k-members or lower a-arms that raise the car so you definitely have something going on. When you loosened up and tighten the lower a-arms did you have the weight of the car loading the suspension?
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 03:38 PM
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Has the car rolled? When you first set it down it is binded up and it takes it rolling a few feet to unload completely and settle.
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 08:15 PM
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The shocks and springs are stock on both cars. The full weight of the car was on the ground so that isnt the case. The car has not rolled yet so I should try that I suppose. Doing that do the control arms need to be loose or tight? If that works then problem solved. wont find out till this weekend.....to damn cold out there right now!!! Thanks for the advise guys
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 08:22 PM
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Oh and I wasnt ripping on BMR. I love their products. I bought the K-member for the LQ4 that went in an RS vehicle. Stock V6 Kmembers are not set up for V8s. But feel free to research that to proove me wrong.
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Old Jan 29, 2014 | 09:26 PM
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The control arms should be left loose until you set the front end down and then you tighten them with the weight of the car on them.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:27 AM
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Originally Posted by RS2SSxLS2
Oh and I wasnt ripping on BMR. I love their products. I bought the K-member for the LQ4 that went in an RS vehicle. Stock V6 Kmembers are not set up for V8s. But feel free to research that to proove me wrong.
I totally understand purchasing an aftermarket K member for swap purposes but what's wrong with using an LS1 K member? So my original question still stands.

Originally Posted by fixinitup
Why would you need a new [aftermarket] K member to support the weight of the LQ4.
A simple google search for 'LS1 into LT1 camaro' will yield you enough research on how to do that. Anyways hope you get all the bugs figured out
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 02:57 AM
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Might want to re title your post then.......
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 09:53 AM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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Originally Posted by RS2SSxLS2
The shocks and springs are stock on both cars. The full weight of the car was on the ground so that isnt the case.
Yes it IS the case. I've had my car off the ground a million times. If you lift both sides of the front it will sit higher until the car rolls. It is because the lower arms are in the downward slope of their arc when the tires touch the pavement and cannot let the car drop any further because the traction of the tires on the pavement is preventing the movement. The arms don't just move up/down, they move in/out too because they move like this: ( ).
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 11:06 AM
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Ok I will roll the car this weekend once it warms up here in Georgia again. How far does it need to roll? Will 10 feet or so back and forward work?
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 05:13 PM
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
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I would say yes, 10 feet forward and back should do it. Measure before and after if you don't believe me. I would even try turning the wheels some (while rolling) to help them get out of the bind they're in. Seriously.
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Old Jan 30, 2014 | 05:59 PM
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^^ This.
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