LCA relocation brackets
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Teching In
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 26
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From: streamwood
LCA relocation brackets so my question is, is it a MUST to get the relocation brackets if i use the lowering springs from BMR? my current set up would be the BMR non adjustable LCA BMR non adjustable PHB and the BMR 1.25'' lowering springs. any info would be appriciated. thanks
While they are not required, they are HIGHLY recommended. You will notice after lowering the car that you lower control arms will be pointed at a downward angle towards the front of the car. This causes your instant center point to be completely out of range of where it should be. You will notice a major loss in traction and a greater tendency to wheel-hop due to the axle getting into and unload condition. There is a reason we make them 
Also, you will have issues with rear-end centering after lowering the car on the non-adjustable panhard bar. Look at the car from behind and compare the outside edge of the tire to the edge of the fenderwell and you will notice the rear end will be off to the driver's side about 1/2-3/4"
Also, you will have issues with rear-end centering after lowering the car on the non-adjustable panhard bar. Look at the car from behind and compare the outside edge of the tire to the edge of the fenderwell and you will notice the rear end will be off to the driver's side about 1/2-3/4"
Also, you will have issues with rear-end centering after lowering the car on the non-adjustable panhard bar. Look at the car from behind and compare the outside edge of the tire to the edge of the fenderwell and you will notice the rear end will be off to the driver's side about 1/2-3/4"
On The Tree
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 112
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From: Tacoma, WA
sorry to hijack this thread for a moment but i feel i must lol
I have no lowering mods on my 01 WS6. I do have an adjustable PHB for when it does get lowered, but I've got 19x12's on the rear with 305's and ever since I installed them I have HORRIBLE wheel hop...
Since the car isn't lowered I'm PRETTY sure the LCA's haven't changed their angle. What else could it be and what can I do to fix it?
(
once again sorry for the hijack lol)
I have no lowering mods on my 01 WS6. I do have an adjustable PHB for when it does get lowered, but I've got 19x12's on the rear with 305's and ever since I installed them I have HORRIBLE wheel hop...
Since the car isn't lowered I'm PRETTY sure the LCA's haven't changed their angle. What else could it be and what can I do to fix it?
(
once again sorry for the hijack lol) sorry to hijack this thread for a moment but i feel i must lol
I have no lowering mods on my 01 WS6. I do have an adjustable PHB for when it does get lowered, but I've got 19x12's on the rear with 305's and ever since I installed them I have HORRIBLE wheel hop...
Since the car isn't lowered I'm PRETTY sure the LCA's haven't changed their angle. What else could it be and what can I do to fix it?
( once again sorry for the hijack lol)
I have no lowering mods on my 01 WS6. I do have an adjustable PHB for when it does get lowered, but I've got 19x12's on the rear with 305's and ever since I installed them I have HORRIBLE wheel hop...
Since the car isn't lowered I'm PRETTY sure the LCA's haven't changed their angle. What else could it be and what can I do to fix it?
(
once again sorry for the hijack lol)
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Glenn ***
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Glenn ***
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813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
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Glenn ***
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Glenn ***
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Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Depending on which way you angle the control arms can change how the tires point during a turn. If they are angled downward from axle to car and the car turns, under roll the axle can turn in causing the tires to point in the direction that you are turning. This can help prevent some oversteer during body roll and make the car a bit easier to control.
The opposite can occur when the arms point up from axle to car. This causes the tires to point/toe away from the direction you are turning. This is roll induced oversteer and can generally make a car harder to control. All in all I'm speaking of higher track speeds. Daily driving I'm sure most people aren't going to notice.
With the arms pointing down from axle to car, the car may want to squat more during a launch which can increase the chances of wheel hop and cause you to lose traction under accelleration. So it doesn't just hurt launching.. it can also hurt the chances you put power down coming out of a corner. On the other hand it can improve the braking ability.
With the arms pointing up from axle to car, you gain more "anti-squat". It helps push the tires down during a launch or accelleration. The opposite occurs with braking here.. the rear tires want to squat during braking.. although this might be better to prevent brake hop. I'm not sure if its a benefit or drawback.
For most people who daily drive and like to give their cars a hard launch, most will only notice the brake hop. I think this is why the LCA relo brackets with the arms on the lowest hole are a pretty popular item.
The opposite can occur when the arms point up from axle to car. This causes the tires to point/toe away from the direction you are turning. This is roll induced oversteer and can generally make a car harder to control. All in all I'm speaking of higher track speeds. Daily driving I'm sure most people aren't going to notice.
With the arms pointing down from axle to car, the car may want to squat more during a launch which can increase the chances of wheel hop and cause you to lose traction under accelleration. So it doesn't just hurt launching.. it can also hurt the chances you put power down coming out of a corner. On the other hand it can improve the braking ability.
With the arms pointing up from axle to car, you gain more "anti-squat". It helps push the tires down during a launch or accelleration. The opposite occurs with braking here.. the rear tires want to squat during braking.. although this might be better to prevent brake hop. I'm not sure if its a benefit or drawback.
For most people who daily drive and like to give their cars a hard launch, most will only notice the brake hop. I think this is why the LCA relo brackets with the arms on the lowest hole are a pretty popular item.
I think if you get brake hop or don't like your traction under a launch, then I'd say go for the relo brackets. If you don't experience either after you changed the springs, you definitely don't need them (I was in this boat). Just get them if you want them for the improvements they can provide.
I ended up buying them later on because I got a UE decoupled torque arm. I wanted to make my axle and arms as level as possible to prevent the torque arm from hitting the sides of the safety loop.
I ended up buying them later on because I got a UE decoupled torque arm. I wanted to make my axle and arms as level as possible to prevent the torque arm from hitting the sides of the safety loop.
For most people they are definitely a beneficial modification. Honestly with their adjustable mounting points they can really benefit everyone because you can change up the mounting point based on what kind of driving you are doing.
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Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
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12 Second Club
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
From: paintsville ky
here is a video im using for suspension tuning, now I understand the LCA relocation brackets are not store bought, I got the measurements from the store bought ones and made a set myself..with that cleared up I am open to the thought I may have built them wrong, though I doubt it bc they seem to be identical but hey u never know! anyways what I noticed was it seemed as though on the bottom hole I lost traction??? on slicks I seemed to have gained it but on street tires I lost traction. now I race in a arm drop heads up style racing event in Ky that is ran on a non-prepped airport in the street tire class, so its a lot different than being at the track I know this, ive ran the event 4 times now and even made it to the semi finals
! but anyways am I safe to ASSUME..that the bottom hole is too aggressive of an angle for my street tires bc it seemed to have HIT the tires more violently than before causing a small amount of wheel hop and then slippage which seemed very difficult to come out of. would moving it up to the next hole be a less aggressive angle that would gain more traction? 12 Second Club
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 184
Likes: 1
From: paintsville ky
im in the planning for an adjustable PHB and adjustable LCA's, these will be bought most likely from BMR or UMI to solve some of the rearend movement issue..but I would love to know why I lost traction by what feels like 25% of what traction I had with the LCA's in stock location, Oh and BTW im on stock shocks and springs if that helps....
Slow Motion burnout and launch - YouTube
here is a video im using for suspension tuning, now I understand the LCA relocation brackets are not store bought, I got the measurements from the store bought ones and made a set myself..with that cleared up I am open to the thought I may have built them wrong, though I doubt it bc they seem to be identical but hey u never know! anyways what I noticed was it seemed as though on the bottom hole I lost traction??? on slicks I seemed to have gained it but on street tires I lost traction. now I race in a arm drop heads up style racing event in Ky that is ran on a non-prepped airport in the street tire class, so its a lot different than being at the track I know this, ive ran the event 4 times now and even made it to the semi finals ! but anyways am I safe to ASSUME..that the bottom hole is too aggressive of an angle for my street tires bc it seemed to have HIT the tires more violently than before causing a small amount of wheel hop and then slippage which seemed very difficult to come out of. would moving it up to the next hole be a less aggressive angle that would gain more traction?
here is a video im using for suspension tuning, now I understand the LCA relocation brackets are not store bought, I got the measurements from the store bought ones and made a set myself..with that cleared up I am open to the thought I may have built them wrong, though I doubt it bc they seem to be identical but hey u never know! anyways what I noticed was it seemed as though on the bottom hole I lost traction??? on slicks I seemed to have gained it but on street tires I lost traction. now I race in a arm drop heads up style racing event in Ky that is ran on a non-prepped airport in the street tire class, so its a lot different than being at the track I know this, ive ran the event 4 times now and even made it to the semi finals
! but anyways am I safe to ASSUME..that the bottom hole is too aggressive of an angle for my street tires bc it seemed to have HIT the tires more violently than before causing a small amount of wheel hop and then slippage which seemed very difficult to come out of. would moving it up to the next hole be a less aggressive angle that would gain more traction?You are correct. A lower rear mounting point on the control arm put more force on the tire, meaning you are now relying on the tire more for traction. On a street tire, they can not handle the higher pressure and will spin terribly. The slick will benefit from the more aggressive angle though since it can absorb and transfer the hit more and can "dig in" harder. For a street tire, a higher position than you have now (but still lower than stock) will help with traction. For slicks/drag radials the lower position will be what you want
