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Adjustable rear end with BMR/Strano?

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Old 05-03-2014 | 06:26 PM
  #1  
NurburgringLT1's Avatar
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Default Adjustable rear end with BMR/Strano?

Hello fellas,

I have a couple questions in regarding a BMR & Strano set-up on my rear. Im setting my car up for pro-touring, road course, and the street. The strip ill be visiting occasionally, but my main focus is bringing the Z28 back out rather than the SS. 94 Z28 with just under 40k miles. What I had in mind to max effort on lap times were:

Dual adjustable pan hard bar to adjust thrust angle
Adjustable Rear Lower Control arms w/ relo brackets
3 way Adjustable rear & front sway bars, maybe adjustable links
Eibach Sportlines
Koni Dual Adj Shocks

Now besides thrust angle what else with a stock 10 bolt could make my rear alignment in course to my goals? The adjustable LCA would that have any effect on the alignment?

Reason is I went to a old friends shop to get the alignment checked out with his hunter hawk eye before I do any suspension work and my thrust angle was 0.47, and rear total toe was -0.31, and right rear had -0.23. Left rear had -0.4 of camber. All this on a solid rear non-adjustable end.

As far as the front end stock was:

Left Right:
Toe: -0.03 -0.5
Camber: -0.4 -0.6
Caster: 4.6 4.7

I had the front custom adjusted to the specs I told him to

Left(Driver) Right(passenger)
Toe: 0.01 0.01
Camber: -1.0 -1.1
Caster: +6.5 +6.5

Drove great to my preference after the alignment. Tighter steering, more responsive, hell of a lot easier to control under heavy load cornering, feels great and behaves better at higher speeds, and always got control of the front better whenever losing the rear on the apex of a corner. However still curious what I can do as far as rear end control when pushing its limits to fishtailing.

Wheels & tires I have on there are the AR TT2’s 18x9 front and 18x10.5 rear.
Tires are bridgestone S-04’s 255/35-18 front, rear RE11 295/30ZR18 Just bought the wheels and tires in Feb.

Ill be swapping in Poly’s all around in the front soon. Trying to get the best out of stock front Lower & Upper arms. The rear is a no brainer to put polly’s when I get started on the rear which will be next.

Anyways your thoughts and opinions on the rear end.
Old 05-08-2014 | 06:23 AM
  #2  
FASTFATBOY's Avatar
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Originally Posted by NurburgringLT1
Hello fellas,

I have a couple questions in regarding a BMR & Strano set-up on my rear. Im setting my car up for pro-touring, road course, and the street. The strip ill be visiting occasionally, but my main focus is bringing the Z28 back out rather than the SS. 94 Z28 with just under 40k miles. What I had in mind to max effort on lap times were:

Dual adjustable pan hard bar to adjust thrust angle
Adjustable Rear Lower Control arms w/ relo brackets
3 way Adjustable rear & front sway bars, maybe adjustable links
Eibach Sportlines
Koni Dual Adj Shocks

Now besides thrust angle what else with a stock 10 bolt could make my rear alignment in course to my goals? The adjustable LCA would that have any effect on the alignment?

Reason is I went to a old friends shop to get the alignment checked out with his hunter hawk eye before I do any suspension work and my thrust angle was 0.47, and rear total toe was -0.31, and right rear had -0.23. Left rear had -0.4 of camber. All this on a solid rear non-adjustable end.

As far as the front end stock was:

Left Right:
Toe: -0.03 -0.5
Camber: -0.4 -0.6
Caster: 4.6 4.7

I had the front custom adjusted to the specs I told him to

Left(Driver) Right(passenger)
Toe: 0.01 0.01
Camber: -1.0 -1.1
Caster: +6.5 +6.5

Drove great to my preference after the alignment. Tighter steering, more responsive, hell of a lot easier to control under heavy load cornering, feels great and behaves better at higher speeds, and always got control of the front better whenever losing the rear on the apex of a corner. However still curious what I can do as far as rear end control when pushing its limits to fishtailing.

Wheels & tires I have on there are the AR TT2’s 18x9 front and 18x10.5 rear.
Tires are bridgestone S-04’s 255/35-18 front, rear RE11 295/30ZR18 Just bought the wheels and tires in Feb.

Ill be swapping in Poly’s all around in the front soon. Trying to get the best out of stock front Lower & Upper arms. The rear is a no brainer to put polly’s when I get started on the rear which will be next.

Anyways your thoughts and opinions on the rear end.
Poly bushings anywhere on a car that you want to turn is a no no. Either use heim ends/roto joints or stock replacement.

Panhard rod does not affect thrust angle, the length of the rear lower control arms compared to each other does. The squareness of the rear end as compared to the front is thrust angle.

The more grip in the front you make with alignment(neg camber) the more the rear gets loose.

Learn to use the gas pedal, it's your friend as far as rear grip goes. get the gas cracked open as soon as possible to get weight on the rear of the car....works wonders mid corner.

The proven setup to Make a Fbody turn is:

Koni shocks

Sam Strano springs

Either 32/19 stock sway bar set(SS/WS6) Or Strano 35/22 hollow bars.

Leveling the rear panhard bar with you in the car.


High rear roll center is what makes these cars *** happy. Watts link or Lowering the panhard bar corrects it.


Keep in mind that YOU are the best mod to make a car handle, not spending money on parts.
Old 05-08-2014 | 05:58 PM
  #3  
JD_AMG's Avatar
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Joined: Jan 2004
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From: St.Charles MO
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Originally Posted by NurburgringLT1
Hello fellas,

I have a couple questions in regarding a BMR & Strano set-up on my rear. Im setting my car up for pro-touring, road course, and the street. The strip ill be visiting occasionally, but my main focus is bringing the Z28 back out rather than the SS. 94 Z28 with just under 40k miles. What I had in mind to max effort on lap times were:

Dual adjustable pan hard bar to adjust thrust angle
Adjustable Rear Lower Control arms w/ relo brackets
3 way Adjustable rear & front sway bars, maybe adjustable links
Eibach Sportlines
Koni Dual Adj Shocks
Why sportlines???
You may want to do more research, relocation brackets are not necessary either.

Wheels & tires I have on there are the AR TT2’s 18x9 front and 18x10.5 rear.
Tires are bridgestone S-04’s 255/35-18 front, rear RE11 295/30ZR18 Just bought the wheels and tires in Feb.
Way too narrow front tires for your goal, you want to run a square setup for best handling. If you want to go to the extremes you can run 17x11" wheels on all four corners with 315/35/17 tires, this is a proven setup.

Ill be swapping in Poly’s all around in the front soon. Trying to get the best out of stock front Lower & Upper arms. The rear is a no brainer to put polly’s when I get started on the rear which will be next.
Bad idea. Poly will bind in control arms that need articulation, your handling will suffer and you are at risk of breaking the control arm.
Rubber bushings or rod ended.
My advice: Start off keeping it really simple, no need to dump a bunch of money into the car right away. Fix the real issue areas first (shocks and brakes) and learn to drive the car, it will be plenty fast with just good shocks and decent brake pads + blank rotors.
Old 05-09-2014 | 02:15 PM
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From: Cockeysville, Md
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You can use poly bushings for parts that only articulate on one axis. The front upper control arms are fine, the front bushing on the front LCA is fine, and not much more than that really.



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