1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

asking because i forget how it used to be, does the rubber'ish oem torque arm bushing just fall out of that clamshell that attaches to the tail shaft of the transmission? this is the bushing with the squiggle in it which the front end of the stamped oem torque arm slips into.

does anyone know the actual material and durometer of that oem bushing?

for the aftermarket torque arm bushings for aftermarket torque arms where the torque arm end is a cylinder, they all seem to be hard poly. Does anyone make a softer one or out of the same material as the oem bushing?

asking because i'd like to try something different than what i have using an umi adjustable torque arm with s60 rear axle, out of curiousity to see if some NVH i think i feel is coming from that. haven't looked yet at mcmaster but if it's cheap enough i would buy a chunk of rubber and cut my own bushing to try.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

The factory bushing is partially vulcanized to the metal clamshell piece. It can be removed, but it is a chore. It is a rubber bushing, don't know the durometer off hand but it is fairly soft. Energy suspension offers a direct replacement polyurethane bushing to work with a stock torque arm. The part number for it is 3.1111

1 FMF

iTrader: (1)

so you're saying when i undid my factory one in preparation for the new bushing, because i know i reused the oem metal clam shell, that i most likely destroyed the oem bushing and threw it out? because it was a few years ago when i did it and completely don't remember pulling the oem bushing out or how hard it was. and if that's the case i should probably stop looking for that old bushing.

MTN_Z

iTrader: (7)

Yeah, you must have thrown it out. Mine was stuck to the clamshell. Time to buy a new bushing.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Prothane does too: 7-1609 It is poly, though, comes w/grease and is two piece like the OEM one... You can still get the OEM ones from GM, there are two part numbers -- one for each piece.

http://prothane.com/vehicle-applications/

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

I have a S60 with the stock TA. Last year I used the stock TA rubber bushing. This winter I installed a UMI relocation crossmember with a poly bushing for the stock TA. I definitely notice more NVH from the poly TA mount because all the TA vibes go right to the chassis without going through the trans mount too but I like the way it transfers the power under load. It's a trade off. If you have LCA relo brkts you could try raising the rear mounting point for the LCAs. On my car the lower I mount the LCA the harsher the rear suspension becomes.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

I went with the Prothane poly mount. It's a two piece design versus ES one piece. I did a poly trans mount at the same time, so I can't tell you if my minor increase in drivetrain "noise" is due to the torque arm mount or trans mount. As cheap as those bushings are, just get one and toss it if you don't like it.

libertyforall1776

iTrader: (2)

Torque Arm Bracket Outer & Inner GM part #s:
10269129 has the larger rubber bushing.
10269131 has the bolt and smaller rubber bushing

OEM:



Replacement:

http://s91.photobucket.com/user/ebmi...?sort=6&page=1

&

http://www.installuniversity.com/ins...ng_z28mech.htm

99'CajunFirehawk157

iTrader: (57)

Other than having to grind the rivets out, how hard of a job was it? This is the last bushing on my car that is stock and I have been putting this job off. You use jack stands or lift?

leadfoot4

iTrader: (1)

My memory must be going to hell.....


I installed an ES poly bushing in my '96, about 15-16 years ago, before I installed an adjustable TQ arm. I don't recall having to fight with the OE rubber bushing to get it out of the "clamshell, and somehow or other, I don't recall grinding any rivets, either......



I took the adj. TQ arm out last year, and put the OE piece back in, as well as the ES bushing. But IF, by some chance, I did have to grind the rivets off the clamshell, it was done "way back when", so installing the ES piece was pretty easy....

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Super easy job to do. Just get the car up on jack stands so it's easy access. Otherwise, you'll simply strong-arm the torque arm around, grind the rivets, install poly w/screws & nuts), lube it up liberally, then strong-arm the torque arm into the new mount (it'll be really tight). Just get bolts/nuts lined up so you can get a wrench/ratchet on there and then everything will come together just fine. Simple.

guppymech

iTrader: (7)

If you let the rear end hang while the car is up in the air the torque arm will be unloaded and much easier to deal with.