floman

iTrader: (54)

Hey guys
Wanted to see what you guys thoughts are on tubular K-members and upper and lower control arms on a weekend warrior type street/strip car. What are the pros & cons to running the tubular suspensions on the street? Are there any problems keeping a frontend alignment or any other issues?

I am currently doing a LSX 427 engine build for my 98 SS Camaro. I will be making quite a few changes to the car in addition to the engine all at the same time. Due to the extra weight of the LSX block as well as going with 2" tube Kooks LT headers and a Moroso 21150 oil pan, I am looking into getting a tubular K-member and tubular upper & lower control arms for a three fold reason of weight reduction & clearance for the headers and oil pan.

The car is a full weight 98 SS Camaro will see some limited street driving, probably around 5000 miles a year. Will be driven to and from the track sometimes as far as 150-200 mile round trips. I want to retain the factory steering rack with power steering as well.

Car currently has full factory front suspension with Afco DA shocks and coilover springs on all four corners. I have BMR rear suspension components and a Spohn extreme duty Torque Arm & BMR extreme duty anti-roll bar as well on the 12 bolt rear.

1) Looking for weight savings & added clearance
2) Looking for a setup that will retain a good alignment with limited street use.
3)Want to retain factory rack and power steering
4) Will retain factory brakes for now ( might upgrade at a later date)
5) How much weight will I drop from just the K-member & uppers and lowers?

I appreciate any advice y'all might have.

JOHNNY59

iTrader: (398)

you will save around 35-40 pounds with just the tubular k-member over stock. if interested I have a brand new k-member for sale below. pm me if interested.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-cla...l#post18315741

ss performance

iTrader: (17)

If you are doing street driving I would advise against chrome moly. While it is stiffer than mild steel it is also more brittle. Being more brittle it is prone to stress cracking especially in the area of the welds.

Just my .02.

UMI Tech

Our k-member is mild steel and can survive most anything. It saves 25 lbs up front and an additional 6 if you do a-arms.

There is no problem with street/strip driving and no trouble with alignment settings.

Here's a testimonial we like to use: http://www.umiperformance.com/news/?p=373

Here's a link to the catalog: http://umiperformance.com/catalog/in...ex&cPath=7_137

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I am currently running PA Racing chromoly k with their lowers. Stock k is around 55 I think, shipping weight for my k was about 17 iirc. I installed both at once. The lazy alignment guy will hate you, because its not a cakewalk like a completely stock car. I eyeballed mine then drove 30+ miles on the interstate to get it aligned, no issue. Impressions are: it creates tons of room to work on the car, it looks nice, ride is good, not harsh but can be just a tad clunky depending on situation (attributed to the rod ends I'm sure), and the front end really lifts more under accel. Would not hesitate to do this mod again.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Our k-member and a-arms drop around 30 lbs off the front while gaining a ton of clearance. If your car will see a lot of street time, I would not recommend chromoly as it is brittle and proned to cracking. I have heard of issues with the lower control arms losing their alignment settings, but this is normally when people re-use their factory hardware. If you upgrade hardware when you install the k-member and arms, it will provide more clamping force to keep the arm located.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

The rod ends in the lower arms do not have the star patterned raised sections like a stock judging does and I highly recommend you go back and retighten them after your alignment guy is through. They need the extra torque to ensure they don't shift around during driving

Heat Seeker WS6

iTrader: (1)

I have the BMR and if you have the opportunity to get one, do it! Plugs & wires on my LT1 is a snap now, and room it gives alone is worth the price.

I got my first BMR k-member in 2002 and it broke in 2008 when I hit a very nasty pothole here in WI. BMR was outstanding in taking care of me even though it was well out of any warranty period & in no way was it their fault. They quickly got me set up with a new one- which is much beefier than that older design. 6 years later, its still perfect and no issues with it at all- including on the rough WI roads or on the racetrack.

BMR Tech2

iTrader: (5)

Anyone who is looking for a K-member and/or arms PM me or give me a call and I will work you a hell of a deal