xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Just ordered Koni Str.t's and Strano lowering springs, replacing my stock springs and AGX shocks. I'm also buying moog strut mounts. I have no intention of dissembling the old struts. Will I need to compress the springs to assemble and install the new front struts?

HioSSilver

iTrader: (8)

You should not need a spring compressor with strano's.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

I compressed mine. Made threading the nut on top much easier and allowed for an accurate torque reading. I have the BMR springs and Koni Yellows for reference.

It took about 15 mins for the pair. I sat on the couch and watched TV while I did it. I went to AutoZone, rented the spring compressor and within the hour I was back getting my $$ back.

Daniel Richards

iTrader: (1)

your likely going to need to compress it, I have no experience with the strano's but my BMR/Bilstein combo definitely required it and even if you can get the top nut started you need the spring compressed far enough for fully tighten down the top mount without the spring pushing on it at all or you will likely end up with a "clunking" sound coming from your front end.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Ok, that's what I figured. Got a buddy that has the compressors, so will have to borrow them.

thanks all

Majestic9C1

iTrader: (19)

yes you should compress them.. unless you are chuck norris

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

I know you said you're getting new mounts but don't forget the isolator that fits down inside the mount also. Commonly forgotten but very important piece, otherwise you risk ripping the mounts out.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Thanks sparkyJJO, I'll add that to my order.

pewter2002

iTrader: (4)

compressing the spring instead of using an air gun to hammer down the top nut will ensure the upper mount is seated flat so no banging or clunking sounds. Also, the threads on the shock and the nut are subjected to enormous stress that is not necessary.

Really, compressing the spring down only adds 20 minutes to your whole project... Dont for get to coat the top nut with marine grease or anti seize or whatever to prevent rust at the top nut and shock esp for a daily driver, snowbelt car...

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

OK, just waiting to receive front strut mount and isolator. Here's the before pics.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

OK, rears are in, and passenger front close to completion. It's freaking hot here and it's taking a toll on my 63 year old body (particularly knees, working on the ground). Here's some comparison photo's of old and new.

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

I just ordered Koni Str.t's just for the front (still have stock decarbons) and have the same KYB Gas-a-just's for the rear (about 1,500 miles on my rear shocks.) I was wondering how have the Gas-a-just's held up and how much better are the Str.t's for the rear, when you get the chance that is. I personally, have liked the KYB's for the rear pretty well but am thinking of getting Str.t's for the rear for better handling, but would like some feedback first. Also have one more question: what is the torque specs for the top nut that holds the front strut assembly together? Unfortunately, I will be disassembling my springs and reusing them.

Darth_V8r

iTrader: (4)

Very often, people get this noise and chase it all over their front ends. I've done it myself. You'll think everything from brakes to bushings, and then find this nut needs to be snugged a bit more.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

I used the spring compressors and they worked well - had to compress maybe an inch. Still a pain to snug down the top shock nut as it's got the rubber insert to prevent loosening, I guess. Problem is that it tightening the nut causes the shock shaft to rotate, so you have to hold the top part of the shock in place to tighten the nut, and there is little room to get a wrench in there; but I accomplished it.

Regarding the KYB's, I've found the ride to be a bit clunky (what does that mean? - well I didn't like the way it rode over bumps - kind of jarring I guess), so I wanted to try something different. None of the KYB's had any evidence of leaking and still seem to work OK, with probably 7 years on the car. I have another thread here about some of my experience (aka problems) with the removal and installation process labeled "Do I need to detach balljoints...." in this same forum, for more info. on how the install is progressing.