I fooled with this thing for 2 hours trying to get it to fit and it won't fit at all. The brace peice that bolts where the stock tunnel brace goes hits the passenger side of the drive shaft tunnel. Also, I can't get the damn upper loop peice over top of the drive shaft to bolt on. A real big pain in the a$$! Can someone shed some light on this for me! BTW, I had the mounting plates in the direction the instructions told me they should be. HELP!

Robbie

 

I had to drop my driveshaft and then use washers to space it upwards to clear my exhaust. They either fit great or not at all depending on who you ask. My car had a stock exhaust, Y pipe and DS at the time.

 

I was thinking about lengthen the holes on the lower brace, so it has more adjustment, side to side, so it won't hit the tunnel, but then it will be too close to the collector. I was planning on dropping the driveshaft to make it a little easier. I don't know what to do, I've heard that other loops don't fit worth a damn so this is my best bet. I guess I will have to make it work. Anyone else have any opinions?

Robbie

 

I ad to drop my driveshaft as well. Once that was out of the way the loop fit fine.

Jeff

 

I switched to an LG Motorsports Loop and all was well. It worked great. I changed it because I went to a 3.5" Lingenfelter Drive shaft and was worried about clearance.

 

Do you know what the inside dia of the LG loop is?

 

Large by huge, it loops around the whole trans tunnel. It fit perfect on my car, stock exhaust, torque arm, and 3.5" driveshaft.

 

I also had problems installing my Lakewood DSLoop. It's a shame their quality control is so poor cuz otherwise it would be a great piece. I'll likely buy something else cuz I don't think I wanna spend hours modifying the Lakewood one to get it to fit.

May as well have thrown $50 in the toilet, would've been more fun!

 

me too and i only got i think 2 bolts with mine... i was like wtf.. i was about to go tothe track and i was like, this will onyl take me like 10-20 mins. hell no, it took me about 3 hours of turning it every way, it would go in fine any way but the right way...

 

Wow, sorry you guys had a rough go at it. Mine went in in about 15-20 minutes, although at the time I didn't have the y pipe on.

 

Mine went in easily after I fought with it for a couple of hours. It is *much* easier if you unbolt the back of the torque arm and put the loop over the shaft back there, then move it up into position... Wish that had been in the directions...cuz it only took about 15 minutes once I did that...
good luck...

 

I went with the LG Loop to accomodate My QTP y-pipe (and the BMR didn't fit with the stock anyway). The inside of the LG loop can be made bigger using some longer bolts and extra nuts and washers.

 

I also had the same problems with a Lakewood DS Loop. I ended up getting an LG Loop, and still had to modify it. Check out the spacers I made to drop the cross brace down enough to clear the FLP y-pipe. I also had to space the upper part up a bit to clear the torque arm.

 

Wow that is a big loop...looks like it worked well though

 

my car needs a loop, but because of my true duals im going to have to do somehting like what you have. does your local track give you any **** about the spacers?

 

They haven't yet...I painted them silver so they kind of blend in, but I really don't think I will be hassled about it....I sure hope not.