xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Took the car out for a long ride yesterday, and man, it does feel so much more solid. Glad I had already installed (years ago) strut tower brace and subframe connectors (this is a drop-top). I also knew that my years old magnaflow catback was hanging a little low. First speed bump scraped the muffler, but otherwise, the car easily handled all other road conditions. So, I still have to replace the sway bars (the front cracked at the link) and do a little weld on the magnaflow as one of the mounts is separating from the tailpipe. Hopefully that should get it to tuck up better. I'm glad I did this.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Here's some crappy photo's, including low hanging exhaust - gotta reweld a bracket on driver's side tailpipe.





These are the "before" pics.

94FBIRD

iTrader: (5)

Hmmm...don't know why it was a problem for you. I've replaced 8-9 shocks and they just swung clockwise out.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

OK, potential new issue. As I've been driving the car, I notice some "clunking" when hitting bumps. Nothing jarring, just there. I've noticed that in the units that I replaced there is a rubber bushing/mount securing the lower part of the coil spring into the retainer on the shock. I did not install this in the new assembly. As a result, the bottom of the spring could slide around in the retainer, though I doubt it because of the pressure on the spring. But, could this be a cause of the "clunk"? What have other people done?

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

Yes that could cause the clunk. The forces on the spring are enough that it would slide.

Why didn't you put the seat on the new setup?

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

Didn't even see them in the old setup until after I had installed the new ones, and I hadn't seen any installation write-up that mentioned them. The only part number I can find is Monroe 904962. Haven't found any similar Moog parts. Anyone have a part number for these? I may have to go through the pain of taking the old assembly apart - passenger side is rusted pretty badly. Also, should there be any similar part for the lower rear springs (I did reinstall the upper)?

Corvett z07

iTrader: (2)

Got it, Moog K80927. I think it's called a front lower coil spring seat. It should sit between the bottom of the front spring and the shock perch about halfway up the shock. I don't know if there is an upper for the fronts, other than the isolator thingy that sits in the shock mount itself. The rear springs sit bare on the axle tubes, with an isolator at the top of the spring to prevent squeaks and squeals from the top of the rear spring and the chassis of the car. I don't believe they make an aftermarket one of those though.

SparkyJJO

iTrader: (11)

The upper mount has the curl of the spring molded into it. The seat is needed on the bottom though.

Rear springs are coiled differently so they have a flat bottom to sit on. Really not sure why they didn't do that on the front too, but whatever.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

OK, got the old strut assembly taken apart. Kudo's for my HarborFreight electric impact gun - needed it to compress the stock springs. The front bottom spring seats out, and they're in good condition. Next step is to remove and reassemble the new struts and install the seats. Also, received my new sway bars yesterday, so in they go too.

xny1989

iTrader: (1)

OK, all done, including installing new front and rear UMI solid sway bars (the front bar cracked and needed to be replaced anyway). A couple of observations -
1 - you do NOT need to detach the upper ball joint to remove and replace the shock/spring assembly. You do need to remove the brake caliper though to avoid stretching the brake line. I did find it a little harder to put the unit back in this way because now you have the weight and bulk of the spindle and lower control arm to maneuver, but was able to do it.
2- WTF were the Chevy engineers thinking when they designed the sheet metal around the driver's side front sway bar bracket? Had to remove a small nut, then had to pry a piece of I think is either 16 or 14 gauge steel over the stud to get to the bolt holding the sway bracket to the frame. To reinstall, I cut a slot in the metal and then put it all back.
3- Weird issue with my Moog driver's side shock tower. At first, I had a hard time threading in the outer bolt - seemed that the angle of the threads was off by a hair - had no such problem on the passenger side. Then, when I did the reinstall, the two studs fell off!!. I used a nut to "press" the studs back in again, but one fell out again! I did get it all back together and tourqe'd down, so this shouldn't be an issue if and when I need to remove the assembly in the future.
4 - The plastic bottom spring seats I removed from my old KYB's didn't quite fit into the metal seat supplied by Koni - had to grind it a bit (the plastic seats), like 1/16", to get them in.
5 - As I approach being 64 years old, I'm starting to say "I'm getting too old for this sh#$t". but now that it's done, and the car feels great and all clunking is gone, it doesn't seem so bad after all. Kinda reminds me of my wife, when she delivered my son after 18 hours in labor, 4 hours pushing him out, and then turning to me after the delivery and saying, "hey, that wasn't too bad". Then we went and had another kid 2 year later!

HUMBL57

This thread was very informational and helpful to me. I ended up separating my upper ball joints no problem with a couple smacks of a hammer when doing mine. I love a rust free car! Did everything with hand tools in no time. One of my Moog upper mount studs popped out as well but went back in no problem. That sheet metal on drivers side swaybar mount only has 3 bolts holding it on. Still not sure what it's purpose was