K-members, control arms and some common misconceptions
05-01-2015, 11:21 PM
#21
I don't see any binding issues with those front end components as they are not using a poly bushing in that vertical caster bushing area. Definitely a non-issue. Being rod end and poly vs rubber may have an impact on ride comfort however, but how much I don't know.
05-04-2015, 10:48 AM
#22
Streetability is not at all compromised. The rear rod end does transfer slightly more NVH than a factory rubber bushing, but when you are already running a tubular K-member it won't really be noticeable above that. Binding it not an issue at all however. The poly bushings are free floating, as well as the rod end that is in the vertical position. That is one of the main advantages of a tubular arm versus a stock arm with bonded rubber bushings, your suspension has less resistance to movement
05-04-2015, 02:54 PM
#23
We also put a set of our AA004 adjustable upper arms up to see. As we expected, due to the extra hardware and rod ends and such, they came in at 7 lbs. 1 lb more than the stockers. However, they can provide much more camber and caster adjustment for those who are lowered more than usual, or are after hardcore handling performance.
The following users liked this post:
wannafbody (09-30-2022)
05-04-2015, 03:12 PM
#24
LMAO... I mean, if you are so inclined you could probably get creative with them. Just please don't tell anyone they are ours. I don't want that crowd calling me for parts and advice and being considered and enabler among the community lol
05-25-2015, 07:21 AM
#25
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm currently swapping out factory k member and a arms with your BMR replacements. I'm looking forward to feeling the difference. On your lower a arms it says modification to the strut mount may be needed for KYB struts. Of course I have KYB struts, what modification may be needed?
05-26-2015, 08:47 AM
#26
the center bushing portion of the KYB's in between the bolts are larger and do not fit in the opening. The center opening may need to be enlarged. Or instead of opening up the arm, I have had customers actually buy the aluminum spacer we sell and enlarge the opening in it so as not to modify their arms
05-28-2015, 06:35 PM
#27
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How much does the spacer affect ride height? It would have to raise the front end in the air. What about modifying the strut? How much would modifying the strut affect its strength structurally?
05-29-2015, 09:01 AM
#28
The spacer adds about 1/2" to the ride height. The issue with modifying the shock would be you have to narrow the mounting loop which means you would need a smaller bushing to fit in it. In other words, not worth it. Unfortunately there isn't really a good option when it comes to getting KYB's to work with aftermarket arms. The modified spacers are probably the the simplest and most reversible way of doing it.
05-29-2015, 12:11 PM
#29
Teching In
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Can you post a link for the spacer? I'll give it a try and see how the car sits when it's done. I rather not modify the A arm, so the spacer is the only other option besides for new struts. Thanks for all your help, it's appreciated!
06-29-2015, 07:11 PM
#32
I have the BMR 1" drop lower control arms. The ride does not feel any worse, how ever, after about 8k of street miles, they do make a hell of a lot of noise. The creaking and clanking of the rod ends can drive one nuts on a day with the windows up and no radio on.
I had thoughts of trying one of UMIs roto joints, but not sure yet if they would tread up.
I had thoughts of trying one of UMIs roto joints, but not sure yet if they would tread up.
10-20-2015, 07:19 AM
#35
10-20-2015, 09:20 AM
#36
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
02-08-2016, 09:45 AM
#37
Going to bring this back up, since I have had a few more questions lately regarding this
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
02-08-2016, 12:36 PM
#38
Streetability is not at all compromised. The rear rod end does transfer slightly more NVH than a factory rubber bushing, but when you are already running a tubular K-member it won't really be noticeable above that. Binding it not an issue at all however. The poly bushings are free floating, as well as the rod end that is in the vertical position. That is one of the main advantages of a tubular arm versus a stock arm with bonded rubber bushings, your suspension has less resistance to movement
I too was worried about losing any of the solid stock steering feel and smoothness it has.
Also, my car will see 160-180mph runs......and need solid lateral stability.
Will BMR upper and lower arms change anything at all....or will the feel be 100% the same where I wouldn't even know the parts were changed...?
.
02-08-2016, 12:43 PM
#39
The arms will deliver a firmer, more positive and responsive feel. The stock arms flex some and the bushings are rather sloppy. Especially talking those kinds of speeds. The only debate at that point would be whether or not to run adjustable uppers. The adjustable ones will deliver a more solid feel, but in trade will deliver more NVH transferred into the cabin of the car
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
02-08-2016, 05:02 PM
#40
The arms will deliver a firmer, more positive and responsive feel. The stock arms flex some and the bushings are rather sloppy. Especially talking those kinds of speeds. The only debate at that point would be whether or not to run adjustable uppers. The adjustable ones will deliver a more solid feel, but in trade will deliver more NVH transferred into the cabin of the car
Would I be wasting my time just getting lowers and using stock uppers...?
.