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Front Shock/Strut Replacement.

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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 04:41 AM
  #1  
Chevreligionz28's Avatar
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Smile Front Shock/Strut Replacement.

Hello all, new here on LS1Tech, usually just peruse the facebook groups and CZ28,
LTXTech and Google for the info I need.
There seems to be more people and activity here than rhe other forums, and more knowledge than on FB.
What I need to see is a good write up on changing front shocks/struts, as i have been confused by the lack of detail in the haynes manual, and the weirs input from other sources. I found a very old post on CZ28 where injuneer had posted a link to his write up, but said link is now defunct and broken.
I have KYB AGX shocks and already have the mounts and isolators.
Also some input on where to set my shocks for driving nice curvy (and bumpy) roads wpuld be great. Rears are already installed, now waiting on my UMI panhard and LCAs
Thanks for your time guys
Current ride is a 1994 Z28 127k miles.
Saved the car from some terrible people who were hauling bags of cement with it.
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Old Apr 20, 2015 | 05:21 AM
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Chevreligionz28's Avatar
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After a little more digging, I found a not so old thread to help out with links to this http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 02:13 AM
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ChristopherWelkin's Avatar
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Let us know how it goes. I'm about to do mine myself pretty soon, but with my luck, the castle nut/spindle/ball joint will all be rusted together.

Take lots of pictures!
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Old Apr 21, 2015 | 03:16 AM
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Good luck
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Old Apr 23, 2015 | 09:33 AM
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You don't need to dissemble the upper ball joint. The entire upper control arm will come out when the bolts/studs are removed. However, the unit will be heavier to put back together again. I did the passenger side taking apart the ball joint, but did not do that on the driver's side to see how that worked out. The upper control arm lifts off the studs on the shock tower. It is harder to put the whole unit back in though because it's that much heavier and bulkier. Overall, I would dissemble the upper ball joint if I could without destroying the grease cover, and was able to with sharp blows to the spindle with a ball pean hammer, using the pressure of the spring to separate.
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