My comparison between my GM 1LE LCAs and factory rear LCAs (pics inside) & questions
12-18-2005, 01:35 PM
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My comparison of my GM rear 1LE LCAs & my factory rear LCAs (pics inside) & questions I just had my factory rear control arms replaced with GM's factory 1LE control arms. The 1LE LCAs were purchased new from Dal Slabaugh@ vandevere.com and were part number 10164151. They were priced at $67.32 each and freight was $10.28 for NJ. I had thought of maybe just buying the Moog 1LE-type bushings and using them to replace my factory LCA bushings, but that would probably add more labor time and, in the end, would still cost the same as buying brand-new factory 1LE LCAs. I had wanted to stay with rubber bushings to avoid any binding issues, coldflow, and occasional greasing that are associated with polyurethane bushings; and the possible increase in NVH (noise, vibration, and harshness), graphite greasing, and short lifespan associated with rod-ends. Installation was $65 (including the 1LE panhard rod installation) at TT Performance in Clifton, NJ.
On the 1LE rear control arms bushings, were the following:
HARRIS
B68
62538
FG
1LE LCAs
I inspected the factory rear control arms once they were removed and noticed that the factory bushings had "spacers" unlike the 1LE control arm bushings that were solid. On the factory rear control arm bushings, were the following:
10251393
BLACK
PINK
10251394
factory LCAs
Why would the bushing designs be different? Would one design have an advantage over the other? Thanks in advance for the info.
Just for the hell of it and since the part and installation were inexpensive, I had also purchased an SLP 1LE panhard rod from lmperformance.com. The SLP 1LE panhard rod (SLP part number 70401) was $26.96 and $20 shipping (direct from SLP). The installation was included in the $65 installation. The SLP 1LE panhard rod bushing design was identical to the factory panhard rod bushing design. On the 1LE panhard rod bushing, were the following:
09
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62292
1LE panhard rod
There was also an orange marker-slash on the top of the 1LE panhard rod (not pictured).
On one bushing end of the factory panhard rod, were the following:
96
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62296
On the other bushing end was the same as above except that 96 and 62296 was, instead, 98 and 62292.
factory panhard rod
Both panhard rods were so identical that I'm not even sure if I got the 1LE panhard rod. All I can do is go by the vendor(s)' product description.
After the installation of the 1LE suspension components, I noticed that there was no increase in NVH. I drive like an old lady so I couldn't tell if my handling improved. Hopefully, the rear 1LE LCAs will improve my 60 foot times this February when Atco Raceway reopens. If not, then I can always use Nitto 555Rs for the rear.
On the 1LE rear control arms bushings, were the following:
HARRIS
B68
62538
FG
1LE LCAs
I inspected the factory rear control arms once they were removed and noticed that the factory bushings had "spacers" unlike the 1LE control arm bushings that were solid. On the factory rear control arm bushings, were the following:
10251393
BLACK
PINK
10251394
factory LCAs
Why would the bushing designs be different? Would one design have an advantage over the other? Thanks in advance for the info.
Just for the hell of it and since the part and installation were inexpensive, I had also purchased an SLP 1LE panhard rod from lmperformance.com. The SLP 1LE panhard rod (SLP part number 70401) was $26.96 and $20 shipping (direct from SLP). The installation was included in the $65 installation. The SLP 1LE panhard rod bushing design was identical to the factory panhard rod bushing design. On the 1LE panhard rod bushing, were the following:
09
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62292
1LE panhard rod
There was also an orange marker-slash on the top of the 1LE panhard rod (not pictured).
On one bushing end of the factory panhard rod, were the following:
96
CLEVITE SILENTBLOC
FG
62296
On the other bushing end was the same as above except that 96 and 62296 was, instead, 98 and 62292.
factory panhard rod
Both panhard rods were so identical that I'm not even sure if I got the 1LE panhard rod. All I can do is go by the vendor(s)' product description.
After the installation of the 1LE suspension components, I noticed that there was no increase in NVH. I drive like an old lady so I couldn't tell if my handling improved. Hopefully, the rear 1LE LCAs will improve my 60 foot times this February when Atco Raceway reopens. If not, then I can always use Nitto 555Rs for the rear.
Last edited by damon_Z; 12-18-2005 at 06:52 PM.
12-18-2005, 04:08 PM
#2
Which is why I just sell the Moog rear LCA bushings. The are made by Harris and have all the same numbers. They are 1LE bushings, and all four are $52 vs. the $134+ you paid for the same bushings in the very same control arm the car comes with. And it's doens't take more than about 10 minutes to press the new bushings into the old arms.
As for the PHB... I've never, ever sold a "1LE" PHB. my 2001 Z28 had the very same bar and from what I can tell with a durometer the same hardness bushings as my '91 1LE had. It's not really different, yet folks continually buy them. I understand you might not know this, but once you see it I'd return the parts instead of installing them and move on to something better if you see fit.
The non solid bushings are that way for flexibility and ride comfort. They also allow bushing windup, which is why better bushings can help with axle hop. But because they are stiffer and less flexible, the ride will change a bit and the rear roll stiffness will also increase a touch too.
As for the PHB... I've never, ever sold a "1LE" PHB. my 2001 Z28 had the very same bar and from what I can tell with a durometer the same hardness bushings as my '91 1LE had. It's not really different, yet folks continually buy them. I understand you might not know this, but once you see it I'd return the parts instead of installing them and move on to something better if you see fit.
The non solid bushings are that way for flexibility and ride comfort. They also allow bushing windup, which is why better bushings can help with axle hop. But because they are stiffer and less flexible, the ride will change a bit and the rear roll stiffness will also increase a touch too.
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12-18-2005, 04:27 PM
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Hi Sam, not to hijack, but since I will order some upper a-arm moog bushings from you, I'd like to know if there is any special tools needed to press the upper a-arm bushings in.
12-18-2005, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Sam Strano
Which is why I just sell the Moog rear LCA bushings. The are made by Harris and have all the same numbers. They are 1LE bushings, and all four are $52 vs. the $134+ you paid for the same bushings in the very same control arm the car comes with. And it's doens't take more than about 10 minutes to press the new bushings into the old arms.
As for the PHB... I've never, ever sold a "1LE" PHB. my 2001 Z28 had the very same bar and from what I can tell with a durometer the same hardness bushings as my '91 1LE had. It's not really different, yet folks continually buy them. I understand you might not know this, but once you see it I'd return the parts instead of installing them and move on to something better if you see fit.
The non solid bushings are that way for flexibility and ride comfort. They also allow bushing windup, which is why better bushings can help with axle hop. But because they are stiffer and less flexible, the ride will change a bit and the rear roll stiffness will also increase a touch too.
As for the PHB... I've never, ever sold a "1LE" PHB. my 2001 Z28 had the very same bar and from what I can tell with a durometer the same hardness bushings as my '91 1LE had. It's not really different, yet folks continually buy them. I understand you might not know this, but once you see it I'd return the parts instead of installing them and move on to something better if you see fit.
The non solid bushings are that way for flexibility and ride comfort. They also allow bushing windup, which is why better bushings can help with axle hop. But because they are stiffer and less flexible, the ride will change a bit and the rear roll stiffness will also increase a touch too.
Oh, and I'm looking forward to giving you some business by buying your recommended Bilstein HDs for my factory springs in a few months.
12-18-2005, 08:52 PM
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As near as I can tell the 1LE stampings are the same and
only the rubber differs. I took the 1LE bushings out of a
set I bought used, and swapped them into a set of boxed
non-1LE arms (ditto) and got some stout like unbreakable
(no stressed welds) arms.
only the rubber differs. I took the 1LE bushings out of a
set I bought used, and swapped them into a set of boxed
non-1LE arms (ditto) and got some stout like unbreakable
(no stressed welds) arms.
