Do It Yourself Poly Bump Stops!
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
Do It Yourself Poly Bump Stops! What - Energy Suspension universal jeep bump stops and the original bracket spacer.
How - grind, file and smooth out old bracket spacer from old stop
Why- old stops were junk!
What I used - original brackets, poly jeep bump stops, grade 8 washers and then 4 bolts of M8 X 1.25 hex cap flange head.
Results....
Let me know what you think!
Without spacer travel is more, with spacer travel is equal. That old junk will suck coming off. I used a small screw driver to get underneath the old stop. Then used a file to smooth out the mounting edges and then a wire wheel.
Here's the bump stops you would need.
There is a way where you can cut the fender wheel well and directly attach the new stop. But then you have too much travel. This way it is as close to stock as you can get it with or without getting an OEM stop. I have a bench grinder but it's a cheapo version and doesn't have enough HP. So I put the spacer in a heavy duty vice and filed away and cleaned it up real nice.
With the new bolts; take some WD-40 or liquid wrench and spread it over the new M8 x 1.25 bolts. Then thread and tighten the new bolts about half way through the threads to where 1/2 is sticking out and 1/2 is all the way through. Then loosen the bolts and reattach them with the new stop and OEM spacer. This will help to clean up the threads on me. At first the threads were so rusted the new bolts well 3 of them went in fine, but the 4th wanted to start walking sideways on me. So I cleaned up the threads in the wheel well and it went in just fine.
How - grind, file and smooth out old bracket spacer from old stop
Why- old stops were junk!
What I used - original brackets, poly jeep bump stops, grade 8 washers and then 4 bolts of M8 X 1.25 hex cap flange head.
Results....
Let me know what you think!
Without spacer travel is more, with spacer travel is equal. That old junk will suck coming off. I used a small screw driver to get underneath the old stop. Then used a file to smooth out the mounting edges and then a wire wheel.
Here's the bump stops you would need.
There is a way where you can cut the fender wheel well and directly attach the new stop. But then you have too much travel. This way it is as close to stock as you can get it with or without getting an OEM stop. I have a bench grinder but it's a cheapo version and doesn't have enough HP. So I put the spacer in a heavy duty vice and filed away and cleaned it up real nice.
With the new bolts; take some WD-40 or liquid wrench and spread it over the new M8 x 1.25 bolts. Then thread and tighten the new bolts about half way through the threads to where 1/2 is sticking out and 1/2 is all the way through. Then loosen the bolts and reattach them with the new stop and OEM spacer. This will help to clean up the threads on me. At first the threads were so rusted the new bolts well 3 of them went in fine, but the 4th wanted to start walking sideways on me. So I cleaned up the threads in the wheel well and it went in just fine.
In theory, what you're doing a great idea. The problem you overlooked is that the factory bump stops get compressed more since they're softer so you really don't want them the same height, you actually want the stiffer poly stops a littly bit shorter so you get a little bit more compression travel before you hit them since they don't compress as much. IMO don't use any spacers unless you absolutely must. 
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 1,801
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From: Lincoln, Nebraska
In theory, what you're doing a great idea. The problem you overlooked is that the factory bump stops get compressed more since they're softer so you really don't want them the same height, you actually want the stiffer poly stops a littly bit shorter so you get a little bit more compression travel before you hit them since they don't compress as much. IMO don't use any spacers unless you absolutely must.
