Steering Issues
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Steering Issues After replacing rack, tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arms, springs and shocks, rear LCA bushings (rubber) and all link kits - I really hate how the car feels. I also had it aligned.
It's very hard to turn the wheel; it wasn't that hard before this work. If I'm on the highway and I take a slight turn, I can let go of the wheel and the steering pretty much stays put. I've tried adjusting the pre-load on the rack only to create a slight vibration. I had marked it and put it back to the original adjustment.
BTW - I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires.... and I hate them. I have my fronts at 32 psi and the rears at 30.
I'm at a loss.
It's very hard to turn the wheel; it wasn't that hard before this work. If I'm on the highway and I take a slight turn, I can let go of the wheel and the steering pretty much stays put. I've tried adjusting the pre-load on the rack only to create a slight vibration. I had marked it and put it back to the original adjustment.
BTW - I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires.... and I hate them. I have my fronts at 32 psi and the rears at 30.
I'm at a loss.
I also replaced these parts and wound up with very stiff steering. Its better than having the excessive play from before. I just learn to live with it.
After replacing rack, tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, upper and lower control arms, springs and shocks, rear LCA bushings (rubber) and all link kits - I really hate how the car feels. I also had it aligned.
It's very hard to turn the wheel; it wasn't that hard before this work. If I'm on the highway and I take a slight turn, I can let go of the wheel and the steering pretty much stays put. I've tried adjusting the pre-load on the rack only to create a slight vibration. I had marked it and put it back to the original adjustment.
BTW - I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires.... and I hate them. I have my fronts at 32 psi and the rears at 30.
I'm at a loss.
It's very hard to turn the wheel; it wasn't that hard before this work. If I'm on the highway and I take a slight turn, I can let go of the wheel and the steering pretty much stays put. I've tried adjusting the pre-load on the rack only to create a slight vibration. I had marked it and put it back to the original adjustment.
BTW - I have Firestone Firehawk Indy 500 tires.... and I hate them. I have my fronts at 32 psi and the rears at 30.
I'm at a loss.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Here are the alignment specs:
Left:
Camber: 0.00
Caster:5.9
Toe: -0.01
Right:
Camber: .3
Caster:5.1
Toe: -0.02
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
I can get used to it as well ... but the tight steering coupled with erratic and twitchy steering makes for a stressful drive.... and is no fun to drive anymore.
Here are the alignment specs:
Left:
Camber: 0.00
Caster:5.9
Toe: -0.01
Right:
Camber: .3
Caster:5.1
Toe: -0.02
Here are the alignment specs:
Left:
Camber: 0.00
Caster:5.9
Toe: -0.01
Right:
Camber: .3
Caster:5.1
Toe: -0.02
"TOE" is short for "toe-in". By convention, a positive toe number indicates "toe in", whereas a "minus" toe number on the printout, as yours is, indicates a toe out condition. I think your "toe out" is part of your problem, and usually, in order to have the car go straight on crowned roads, the right side usually has a little more caster than the left side, which is the opposite of how your car is set. The "zero" camber on the left is good, but the right side should be zero too....
The wheel shouldn't stay turned left. What year is your car? Does it have a "rag joint" in the steering column? If so, check it, and see if it's deteriorated and binding....
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
"TOE" is short for "toe-in". By convention, a positive toe number indicates "toe in", whereas a "minus" toe number on the printout, as yours is, indicates a toe out condition. I think your "toe out" is part of your problem, and usually, in order to have the car go straight on crowned roads, the right side usually has a little more caster than the left side, which is the opposite of how your car is set. The "zero" camber on the left is good, but the right side should be zero too....
The wheel shouldn't stay turned left. What year is your car? Does it have a "rag joint" in the steering column? If so, check it, and see if it's deteriorated and binding....
The wheel shouldn't stay turned left. What year is your car? Does it have a "rag joint" in the steering column? If so, check it, and see if it's deteriorated and binding....
I too was concerned about it having toe-out.
What would the optimal settings be for the alignment on these cars? From what I've read, 4.5* seems to be good for camber on each side with 1/16" toe in for each side as well.
This is the second shop that has adjusted the front end with very similar specs. How do shops respond to the customer telling them what angles they want?
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It's a `99 TA. I'm not sure if it has a rag joint. I didn't drive the TA today ... so I don't have it with me to check.
I too was concerned about it having toe-out.
What would the optimal settings be for the alignment on these cars? From what I've read, 4.5* seems to be good for camber on each side with 1/16" toe in for each side as well.
This is the second shop that has adjusted the front end with very similar specs. How do shops respond to the customer telling them what angles they want?
I too was concerned about it having toe-out.
What would the optimal settings be for the alignment on these cars? From what I've read, 4.5* seems to be good for camber on each side with 1/16" toe in for each side as well.
This is the second shop that has adjusted the front end with very similar specs. How do shops respond to the customer telling them what angles they want?
If your car is a '99, I believe you have the newer style steering shaft, which went into the cars when the LS1 engine became the standard V-8. No rag joint is used on these cars.
What I strive for in alignment settings, since I'm not racing the car, is this:
Camber 0*, both sides
Caster 5.5* right side; 5* left side
Toe In 0.03* each side
1/16" toe each side, equals 1/8" total, which is a little much. The number of 4.5* that you refer to is a CASTER number. If you had 4.5* camber, the tire would be rolling on it's sidewall....
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
If your car is a '99, I believe you have the newer style steering shaft, which went into the cars when the LS1 engine became the standard V-8. No rag joint is used on these cars.
What I strive for in alignment settings, since I'm not racing the car, is this:
Camber 0*, both sides
Caster 5.5* right side; 5* left side
Toe In 0.03* each side
1/16" toe each side, equals 1/8" total, which is a little much. The number of 4.5* that you refer to is a CASTER number. If you had 4.5* camber, the tire would be rolling on it's sidewall....
What I strive for in alignment settings, since I'm not racing the car, is this:
Camber 0*, both sides
Caster 5.5* right side; 5* left side
Toe In 0.03* each side
1/16" toe each side, equals 1/8" total, which is a little much. The number of 4.5* that you refer to is a CASTER number. If you had 4.5* camber, the tire would be rolling on it's sidewall....
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
I loosened it at the rack and was able to actually tap it down at least 1/2".
I was starting to second guess damn near every repair that I've done to my suspension.
Now the steering is fluid, predictable.
Thread Starter
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,367
Likes: 144
From: Woodstock, GA
Adjusted my toe-in This is an old thread but I made a very positive adjustment that is worth mentioning.
Based on the alignment specs, and the car has a bad pull to the R, I adjusted my toe IN for 1/16" total. The result was asounding. No more twitching the wheel constantly to stay in my lane on the highway. Straight line tracking is perfect. Steering feels more responsive and even going over bumps feels more solid and not as harsh. It also didn't have a slight "shimmy" that I occasionally feel.
Both Firestone who aligned the TA after getting tires (a few years ago), and Kauffman tire, who aligned it after changing control arm bushings and ball joints, had similar specs. The caster is what it is and is out of range, the camber is correct, but neither shop had any toe IN.
Based on the alignment specs, and the car has a bad pull to the R, I adjusted my toe IN for 1/16" total. The result was asounding. No more twitching the wheel constantly to stay in my lane on the highway. Straight line tracking is perfect. Steering feels more responsive and even going over bumps feels more solid and not as harsh. It also didn't have a slight "shimmy" that I occasionally feel.
Both Firestone who aligned the TA after getting tires (a few years ago), and Kauffman tire, who aligned it after changing control arm bushings and ball joints, had similar specs. The caster is what it is and is out of range, the camber is correct, but neither shop had any toe IN.
This is an old thread but I made a very positive adjustment that is worth mentioning.
Based on the alignment specs, and the car has a bad pull to the R, I adjusted my toe IN for 1/16" total. The result was asounding. No more twitching the wheel constantly to stay in my lane on the highway. Straight line tracking is perfect. Steering feels more responsive and even going over bumps feels more solid and not as harsh. It also didn't have a slight "shimmy" that I occasionally feel.
Both Firestone who aligned the TA after getting tires (a few years ago), and Kauffman tire, who aligned it after changing control arm bushings and ball joints, had similar specs. The caster is what it is and is out of range, the camber is correct, but neither shop had any toe IN.
Based on the alignment specs, and the car has a bad pull to the R, I adjusted my toe IN for 1/16" total. The result was asounding. No more twitching the wheel constantly to stay in my lane on the highway. Straight line tracking is perfect. Steering feels more responsive and even going over bumps feels more solid and not as harsh. It also didn't have a slight "shimmy" that I occasionally feel.
Both Firestone who aligned the TA after getting tires (a few years ago), and Kauffman tire, who aligned it after changing control arm bushings and ball joints, had similar specs. The caster is what it is and is out of range, the camber is correct, but neither shop had any toe IN.
