For my next mods, I plan on getting BMR's Xtreme STB and their SFC's. Since I don't plan on lowering my car ever, I'll probably go with boxed weld-in SFC's. When the STB and SFC's are all installed, how noticeable will their improvements be? I don't plan on doing any autocrossing, but I'd like to tie the chassis together and make it as strong as I can.

 

Very

 

What he said.....

 

what both of them said.....

STB will keep the frontend stiff and the subframes take care of the middle section of the car. Its too bad there isn't a rear stb like mustangs have.

 

Exactly. I'm not sure how it'd be mounted with all the **** we have in our trunks, but a rear STB would be immensely beneficial I imagine, seeing as how we are hatchbacks.

 

I think they call that a cage.

 

Please think long and hard before buying the bulky weld-in boxed SFC's. If ever you do want to lower the car or you sell it to someone who does, you're stuck. There are a handful of good tubular SFC's (LG, GW, etc) out there that lose no ground clearance whatsoever. Another option would be the SLP bolt-ins, they're tubular, but can be removed if so desired. Just my opinion...

SFC's will make very noticeable difference in the tightness of the car. I had mine installed when the car was almost brand new and I immediately felt a nice improvement. I noticed a slight improvement in doing the STB (mainly in the form of quicker steering response and more "direct" turn-in - for lack of a better description), but not dramatic. Both are nice improvements though IMO, especially the SFC's.

 

I have this set up but for the convertible. You can't even see my sfc's. I noticed a HUGE difference. The car ride's really stiff without any flexing at all.

 

Exhaust hangs lower than the SFC. I have welded in BMR SFC and regular STB. Car fealt like a brick after installation.

Brian

 

"Brick". Good or bad term?

 

I remember pilots saying that flying the old MiG-25 was like flying a "brick". I wondered the same thing...

 

My weld in global west sfc's made a huge difference, I think this should be a mandatory mod on a t-top car.

 

I just put in Spohn cromoly sfcs today. The fit was awesome and you cant see them at all from the side. These only weigh 7lbs each too.

 

lol... I meant brick vs. noodle. Bricks are pretty torsionally rigid. The suspension does the work rather than the body now, so it feels quite stiff. As for the Mig... I would think flying a brick can't be a good thing.

Brian

 

SLP bolt on's are boxed, not tubular.

Regardless, it does stiffen the chassis tremendously, the SFC's more than the STB.

 

I have SLP BOXED SFC's, and my car is lowered 2.5" rear, 2.0" front. No problems with clearance except in automatic car washes.

 

Good answer, I was going to say that!

 

I have the box style weld ins, lowered with no issues. On a TA your side skirts as well as most Y-pipes will hang lower then these SFC designs. As for the SLPs, as far as I know there Diamond style bolt in version hangs lower then the BMRs or similar design. Being the cross the chassis as they do.

Not saying the tubular designs are good, they are just as good. But I would not be afraid of running the Boxed style. I am very pleased. Im not a pro but thats my opion

 

Pound for pound the round cross-section will have better torsional rigidity than the square tube. So, I just don't see the need for a square-tube 2-point SFC (like the BMR) when a tubular design can be made to weigh less and tuck up better. The SLP design has a "double diamond" design which will add some more rigidity beyond the standard 2-point setup and they're a bolt-in design so they can be removed if so desired. Just my opinion. Just about any SFC will be beneficial on these cars in my experience.

 

I agree, and I do see your opinion and where you are coming from. Weight saving is a big issue with some ppl.

I am just really pleased with the fit and feel of mine, I guess I like to brag