I have a 98 trans am with a d1SC fmic procharger 470whp on 9.8 psi. I have full length torque arm and trans relocation. Pinion angle set at -2. I have tubular lower control arms with lowering brackets and adjustable panhard bar. Stock springs and front shocks Agx rear shocks set to 1. Spohn front and rear sway bars. And subframe connectors. 342 gears. Auto car with a yank ss3600. With mt et radials 295/45/17 tires. The cars weight is 3720 with me in it with 1/4 tank. I cant get the car to put power to the ground. I heat up the tires then leave on idle. It may hook for the first 2 feet but when boost hits the tires spin but its hard to tell if it gets traction at all. I don't know what to adjust to get this thing to hook. Any help is appreciated.

 

Heavy car, kinda sounds like you need LCA relocation brackets on the second lowest hole. Just to get the LCAs pointing back upwards towards the front. Lowest hole hits the tires too hard initially then unloads.

 

What position are your arms in on the relocation brackets, and what position is the torque arm in on the crossmember?

 

You need shocks to control the chassis movement and torque application.

Give us a call and we will be happy to set you straight on what it takes to make to make your car work with the power you have.

 

The relocation brackets are on the lowest hole and the torque arm is is mounted towards the top of the crossmember. I will look at it later today to see what holes I am using on the crossmember .

 

If you have LCA relocation brackets already and are on the lowest hole, move it up 1, free and worth a shot.

 

I will try moving them up a hole. The car is heavy I thought that might help me out.

 

Actually, I would recommend just the opposite. Leave the LCA's where they are and drop the torque arm down. This will put more load to the tire

 

How far should I drop the crossmember? the previous owner of the crossmember cut probably 3-4 holes off the bottom . So i can only lower it 2 holes.

 

I would take it to the lowest hole available then. Why would someone cut the bottom adjustments off?

 

he said he cut it for exhaust clarence and the lower adjustments were not needed

 

If dropping the torque arm down gives you more traction then what does moving it up do?

 

Going up moves the instant center point out farther to the front of the car, and the angle will do the same as the lca's being angled downwards. It will take load off the tires.

 

When you stab the gas what rpm does it jump to? I'm about at my whits end with my yank converter. Damn thing flashes to 5200 rpm in boost and blows the tires off too. I've been making suspension adjustment for weeks now to no avail

 

mine is the same 5200 rpm. i thought it was lower but went out and tested and that's around where it was.

what is your stall the ss is not a boost stall. i talked to dave at yank and he told me to get a pas3400 but i had the ss3600 in the car.

 

this is my dyno run.

 

Is that locked or unlocked converter?? I have a PAS3400 Here are my graphs locked and unlocked in rpm and by speed. Red is unlocked and blue is locked in both graphs

RPM



SPEED

 

Unlocked I believe

 

I fixed the problem I took the bump stops off and now it gets traction

 

Please explain,rear bumpstops?