Quick Front upper control arm question, Camaro.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Fleming Island, Florida
Quick Front upper control arm question, Camaro. in process of reassembling front suspension on 4th gen Camaro new upper control arm and bushings. When I torque bolts that mount upper arm to upper mount to 72 lb the control arm does not move freely in the mount. My question is should the mount allow the control arm to move freely up and down? Or should it be stiff? when it is stiff the bushings seem to twist.
Thanks for any help,
Rob
Thanks for any help,
Rob
Last edited by Stingerrray; Oct 25, 2015 at 09:41 PM.
I torqued mine down once I had them installed on the car at ride height. I jacked the whole assembly up to simulate load and then torqued it so it was in the proper position so the bushing wasn't loading up. If that makes sense. If you torque it how it is in the picture it won't be at the position it's at in the car and will cause binding issues once it does move.
But yes, once they are torqued they are stiff.
But yes, once they are torqued they are stiff.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Fleming Island, Florida
That makes total since Thanks for your reply. So I should reassemble everything then get the suspension to ride height before I torque everything to spec. Does this include the Lower Control arm as well? This brings out another question. On the lower Control arm both bushings are adjustable. Will the shop set these correctly when they do the alignment? Again I appreciate your help. I am replacing everything on both sides except the tie rods. The car was drifting clunking and steering like a Tank.
New Parts
Upper Control Arms
Lower Control Arms
Sway Links
Tie Rod ends
Pre loaded Shocks mounts and springs
Thanks,
Rob
New Parts
Upper Control Arms
Lower Control Arms
Sway Links
Tie Rod ends
Pre loaded Shocks mounts and springs
Thanks,
Rob
Last edited by Stingerrray; Oct 25, 2015 at 10:18 PM.
Yeah you want to torque everything once it's on the car. Yes, the shop will set everything if they know what there doing. Keep everything loose until you have everything at ride height then torque.
in process of reassembling front suspension on 4th gen Camaro new upper control arm and bushings. When I torque bolts that mount upper arm to upper mount to 72 lb the control arm does not move freely in the mount. My question is should the mount allow the control arm to move freely up and down? Or should it be stiff? when it is stiff the bushings seem to twist.
Thanks for any help,
Rob
Thanks for any help,
Rob
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Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Fleming Island, Florida
Thanks for all the help. Still have some issues and could use some more help. Got the front end done. With you folks help. The following was what I replaced on both sides.
1) L R Lower Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
2) L R Upper Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
3) L R Outer Tie Rod Ends.
All bushings and Ball joints were severely worn. The lower control arm bushings were torn on the rears. I have not had car aligned yet but steering and brakes are much more solid after a drive around the block. No question about it, this all had to be done.
However the main reason i did this was a really bad clanking clunking while braking. And it is still doing the same thing.
My driveway has a slope to it. When I put the car in reverse and roll back and Brake im hearing a really loud Clanking noise. I say Clanking as it sounds like Metal on Metal. If I roll back and tap Brakes 10 times I will hear the noise evry time the brakes are actuated.
If I put car in gear (auto tran) move forward to about 5 MPH then tap the brakes repeatedly the I will hear the same noise.
If the car is moving ahead at 50 and I brake I dont hear it.
What the hell could this be?
Lemme Know if you have any thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Rob
1) L R Lower Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
2) L R Upper Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
3) L R Outer Tie Rod Ends.
All bushings and Ball joints were severely worn. The lower control arm bushings were torn on the rears. I have not had car aligned yet but steering and brakes are much more solid after a drive around the block. No question about it, this all had to be done.
However the main reason i did this was a really bad clanking clunking while braking. And it is still doing the same thing.
My driveway has a slope to it. When I put the car in reverse and roll back and Brake im hearing a really loud Clanking noise. I say Clanking as it sounds like Metal on Metal. If I roll back and tap Brakes 10 times I will hear the noise evry time the brakes are actuated.
If I put car in gear (auto tran) move forward to about 5 MPH then tap the brakes repeatedly the I will hear the same noise.
If the car is moving ahead at 50 and I brake I dont hear it.
What the hell could this be?
Lemme Know if you have any thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Rob
Last edited by Stingerrray; Oct 27, 2015 at 11:59 PM.
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I don't want to "rain on your parade", but my one thought is this....Mevotech??? I'm assuming you got these Mevotech parts from Rock Auto Parts. Look at the cost of the Mevoteh complete control arm, with bushings and ball joint already installed, compared to the cost of a Moog ball joint alone. There is a reason for this.
Got the front end done. With you folks help. The following was what I replaced on both sides.
1) L R Lower Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
2) L R Upper Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
3) L R Outer Tie Rod Ends.
All bushings and Ball joints were severely worn. The lower control arm bushings were torn on the rears. I have not had car aligned yet but steering and brakes are much more solid after a drive around the block. No question about it, this all had to be done.
However the main reason i did this was a really bad clanking clunking while braking. And it is still doing the same thing.
My driveway has a slope to it. When I put the car in reverse and roll back and Brake im hearing a really loud Clanking noise. I say Clanking as it sounds like Metal on Metal. If I roll back and tap Brakes 10 times I will hear the noise evry time the brakes are actuated.
If I put car in gear (auto tran) move forward to about 5 MPH then tap the brakes repeatedly the I will hear the same noise.
If the car is moving ahead at 50 and I brake I dont hear it.
What the hell could this be?
Lemme Know if you have any thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Rob
1) L R Lower Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
2) L R Upper Control arms Mevotech with New Bushings and Ball Joint.
3) L R Outer Tie Rod Ends.
All bushings and Ball joints were severely worn. The lower control arm bushings were torn on the rears. I have not had car aligned yet but steering and brakes are much more solid after a drive around the block. No question about it, this all had to be done.
However the main reason i did this was a really bad clanking clunking while braking. And it is still doing the same thing.
My driveway has a slope to it. When I put the car in reverse and roll back and Brake im hearing a really loud Clanking noise. I say Clanking as it sounds like Metal on Metal. If I roll back and tap Brakes 10 times I will hear the noise evry time the brakes are actuated.
If I put car in gear (auto tran) move forward to about 5 MPH then tap the brakes repeatedly the I will hear the same noise.
If the car is moving ahead at 50 and I brake I dont hear it.
What the hell could this be?
Lemme Know if you have any thoughts on this.
Thanks,
Rob
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Fleming Island, Florida
Yes They did come box welded The lowly Mevotech Uppers are box welded. Im not saying they are great. Im not saying they are bad. But in my case I just want a car that runs good. Not everyone wants to hit the drag strip. But they do appear to be better equipped than the originals, dont they? I'm thinking my clunking might just be the torque arm bushing. I'll put it up on the lift next week and report back. Was just hoping one of you experts have seen the same issue before. You folks have been extremely helpful. I am very greatful for all of your help.
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks,
Rob
Last edited by Stingerrray; Oct 30, 2015 at 03:29 AM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Fleming Island, Florida
Yup I did Have to looked at the brakes themselves? Without being able to see or hear the noise I would look at the clearance between the caliper and the slider bracket, and then the pads and the caliper. You could possibly have the stainless steel shims missing or worn. Just a guess but worth looking into.
Thanks,
Rob
Torque arm will definitely move up and down within the load and decel actions. The bushing for sure can be the issue, I would suggest to check the arm itself as they are known to crack close to the rearend.
The lowly Mevotech Uppers are box welded. Im not saying they are great. Im not saying they are bad. But in my case I just want a car that runs good. Not everyone wants to hit the drag strip. But they do appear to be better equipped than the originals, dont they? I'm thinking my clunking might just be the torque arm bushing. I'll put it up on the lift next week and report back. Was just hoping one of you experts have seen the same issue before. You folks have been extremely helpful. I am very greatful for all of your help.
Thanks,
Rob
Thanks,
Rob
I understand your point, however, the critical part is the ball joint, and secondarily, the bushings. After I retired from full time work, I worked for a few years at my local Advance Auto Parts store. We sold Moog parts, as our "top shelf" parts, and we also have a much cheaper line, know as the "white box stuff"......parts that might last a year or so.
Therefore, as I initially mentioned, look at the price of just the Moog ball joint, and compare it to the cost of the entire Mevotech control arm. There's a reason.....
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2015
Posts: 26
Likes: 0
From: Fleming Island, Florida
Have not had a chance to get it over on the lift yet. Do you think it could be the U-Joint?
Thanks,
Rob
A failed u-joint for sure can make a clunking sound between load and decel, would be worth the effort to check. The GM joints are not serviceable so if you see any rust around the boots at the cap then I would pull it apart and check into it deeper.
Teching In
Joined: Apr 2016
Posts: 18
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IL
On another note: how are the mevotech control arms working out? I've been contemplating getting them when I completely tear apart my front end.
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
I'm at the point where I am going to load the suspension to torque my upper arms. However because of the springs, it is very difficult to place the tools where I can tighten down the bolts/nuts and torque. It looks like I'm going to have to get some open ended wrenches and just smoke them down as much as I can since I won't have room for a torque wrench. Anybody else have this issue? How did you get around it?
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 392
Likes: 0
Nobody ran into this issue??? Everyone says to put a load on the suspension. If I can't smoke the bolts and nuts down enough, I guess I can load it, paint a line to show the angle and take it all apart. Put the upper arms at the angle and torque it down then. That's all I can think of if I can't put enough torque and that will be a guess. Is it really that important that I put the 72 ft lbs torque on this hardware?