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I know this has been talked over before but having trouble finding pictures or answers on these specific set ups being lowered.
I have eibach springs about 1.5" drop I'm pretty sure.. bought it already lowered.. I am debating between a torque arm relocation bracket arm and full length adjustable torque arm or something similar to the BMR xtreme with the cross member that welds to my tubular umi subframes.. I think the short style arm would give me max traction for the track but not 100% sure.
If anyone has the xtreme set up or similar, if you have side profile pictures that would help me with the decision. If I'm going to scrape on every dip in the road then I'll end up going with relocation and full length adjustable. I attached a picture of how low I am now with the lowest point being my LM2 bullet on the left..
Any opinions or help is greatly appreciated.. time to get my wheels planted to the ground this year! All mods are in my signature.
I had the bmr Extreme tq arm on my daily stock ride height and speed bumps were not my friend, they do sell that kit with and optional straight bar for the crossbrace which looks like it will help a lot but it kind of stops any kind of exhaust from going past it.
OK great info, so I'm sure being lowered will just about dead stop me on a speed bump then? Lol. I love being lowered but I hate how it limits my options. I wonder how much better the short arm would be for traction vs the full length with the relocation?
I literally got semi stuck on a stump once pulling through a field. And speed bumps scraped. Unless your trying to get every last ounce of traction for competition I wouldn't get anything that hangs.
Lol yes that doesn't sound good for Michigan roads.. I better stick with the relocation and full length, that will tuck up the best..i just thought I'd get some further opinions.. I'm sure fixing my pinion angle will make a pretty good difference.
If your running aftermarket exhaust that you aren't 100% sure of clearance with the straight cross member I would recommend going with the "drop down" design.
If you decide to go with the long style torque arm with the relocation crossmember there shouldn't be any clearance issues.
If you need any info or any measurements regarding clearance give me a call at the shop during the week and i'll be glad to get you some info.
That may be an options because my exhaust tucks up pretty tight.. I'm just wondering how much better the short arm would be as far as traction.. do you think it would be worth running the short over the long arm if i could make it fit properly? I do like that the short arm would be cheaper, but knowing my clearance would be good with the long arm may save a lot of head ache. I appreciate the input
That may be an options because my exhaust tucks up pretty tight.. I'm just wondering how much better the short arm would be as far as traction.. do you think it would be worth running the short over the long arm if i could make it fit properly? I do like that the short arm would be cheaper, but knowing my clearance would be good with the long arm may save a lot of head ache. I appreciate the input
The short torque arm hits the tires harder at launch. I'm sure some guys that have run both will chime in for you.
The short style usually transmits more road noise up through the chassis compared to the long style.
Depending on whether it's a street/strip car, or a street car that your upgrading the handling plays a big part in deciding which style will be best for your application.
The short style can cause some Ill effects in the handling department because of the change of the cars instant center.
OK great info.. I have heard the short arms can be noisey.. I'm going for mostly strip performance but I do drive it daily during summer. I was hoping for someone to chime in some 60 ft times with a back to back swap but probably not very common.. I'll work on making up my mind this week and hopefully will get some parts on the way..
Craig do you have any on the car pictures of the style you linked above? Or side profile pictures to show ground clearance? If not no big deal.. thanks!
OK great info.. I have heard the short arms can be noisey.. I'm going for mostly strip performance but I do drive it daily during summer. I was hoping for someone to chime in some 60 ft times with a back to back swap but probably not very common.. I'll work on making up my mind this week and hopefully will get some parts on the way..
Craig do you have any on the car pictures of the style you linked above? Or side profile pictures to show ground clearance? If not no big deal.. thanks!
I should have something I can send you when I get in the shop on Monday.
Our long arm and ground clearance should not be a problem and give no exhaust fitment issues either. As for 60' comparison your biggest limitation is the vehicle being lowered and under powered. You can make a long arm or short arm 60' it just takes time and testing. Oh and a good set of shocks and tires.
Give us a call and we can discuss suspension further (309)382-6252
Or new tunnel mount style arm may be a good option to look into also. Goes above the exhaust, so it adds no ground clearance issues. Also offer full adjustability and no added NVH over a standard full length arm
Or new tunnel mount style arm may be a good option to look into also. Goes above the exhaust, so it adds no ground clearance issues. Also offer full adjustability and no added NVH over a standard full length arm
You know, always wondered why they couldn't just go over the exhaust lol.. I guess it exists now.. is this a relatively new product? Haven't seen this before.. also what is NVH?
So is there a chance that at my power level and being lowered that I may not see any traction improvements? I plan on heads and cam in the future. I am also concerned about the tailshaft so there's no question it would prevent that from breaking.
I really appreciate all of the info you guys have provided so far and the pictures. Its making me understand the different options but so many great choices it's hard to decide lol.
Or new tunnel mount style arm may be a good option to look into also. Goes above the exhaust, so it adds no ground clearance issues. Also offer full adjustability and no added NVH over a standard full length arm
I just received your TA012....does that also have the tunnel brace that does not add to ground clearance issues...?
The braces look the same in your website pictures...
It appears to me that it's the same but has a driveshaft loop.. if possible, let me know what you think of it once installed.. every talks about noise, I'm just wondering if it's really that bad or just no longer as quiet as stock...
My only question I have now is how much it will actually help with traction.. I thought being lowered threw off my pinion angle which leads to traction issues or less power to the ground? Maybe I'm not understanding it like I thought.. I do know it will save my tailshaft either way, so I'll most likely end up buying one anyways.
I have the bmr mta 001 which is the full length chromoly adjustable. I also have the bmr torque arm relocation crossmember for the 4l60e.
I took my time and made sure I got a pinion angle of -3 degrees as recommended by bmr.
I don't have any clunks or road noise. Between this and my bmr weld on subframe connectors there is a huge improvement on body flex. It's like my 2000 Z is brand new! Doors shut with ease, no rattles, and when my 4000 stall hits the car goes nice and straight with the et streets spinning.
Ground clearance is not an issue. It's the same as the stock torque arm.
It appears to me that it's the same but has a driveshaft loop.. if possible, let me know what you think of it once installed.. every talks about noise, I'm just wondering if it's really that bad or just no longer as quiet as stock...
My only question I have now is how much it will actually help with traction.. I thought being lowered threw off my pinion angle which leads to traction issues or less power to the ground? Maybe I'm not understanding it like I thought.. I do know it will save my tailshaft either way, so I'll most likely end up buying one anyways.
Being lowered can throw off your pinion angle which can lead to vibrations in the driveline and damaged components.
The goal in setting up a suspension is to apply just enough force to the tires to keep them from spinning and let the rest of the force push the car forward.If there is more force applied to the rear tires than what is needed to keep them from spinning it will rob the car of forward drive and lift the rear of the car causing slower acceleration.
I would recommend doing a search on instant center of a car, it will give you a better understanding of what components will work best for your application.
Thanks for the explanation! I started searching and watching videos and its starting to make sense more now.. it looks like it's all about finding the sweet spot.. I will keep reading and hopefully have a good understanding when it comes time to installing the part and making adjustments..
You know, always wondered why they couldn't just go over the exhaust lol.. I guess it exists now.. is this a relatively new product? Haven't seen this before.. also what is NVH?
So is there a chance that at my power level and being lowered that I may not see any traction improvements? I plan on heads and cam in the future. I am also concerned about the tailshaft so there's no question it would prevent that from breaking.
I really appreciate all of the info you guys have provided so far and the pictures. Its making me understand the different options but so many great choices it's hard to decide lol.
Our tunnel mount arm has a wide enough range of adjustment to allow for correcting torque arm angle for a lowered car. This design pulls the torque arm completely away from your transmission so no more tailshaft housings have to be sacrificed.
Originally Posted by LS6427
I just received your TA012....does that also have the tunnel brace that does not add to ground clearance issues...?
The braces look the same in your website pictures...
.
Yes, the TA012 and TA014 are the exact same part, except the TA012 includes a driveshaft loop. The TA014 has the mounting provision for the loop, so it can be added later if desired with no modification.
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Need help with torque arm selection - lowered 
