IronThomas

I'm in the middle of a major over haul for the car, both suspension and powertrain. I've read through a lot of threads here, but suspension setups can be very specific to each driver and expectations..


I picked up Spohn adjustable LCA's and a BMR panhard bar (which I thought was adjustable until I showed up, but I picked it up anyway) only paid $150 for everything.


Anyway, my car is lowered a little over 2" (Intrax lower springs / QA1 single adjustable shocks). After doing some research I think I am on the wrong track as far as wanting a drag setup.


The Panhard bar won't do anything for me over stock, but my question is about the LCA's. Other than being a more rigid product and reducing wheel hop, what else can I use these LCA's for? Do I just lift the car up, and use them to adjust where the wheel sits under the fender? I'm under the impression I can't really correct the pinion angle with these and that's actually what an adjustable torque will do.


Is what I have basically half-assed and I'd be better off selling them for something else?

IronThomas

End goal: A good 1/8 and 1/4 drag setup, I don't care about road noise or anything like that.


The car will be a 2011 6 liter iron block, forged pistons, custom cam, ported heads, LS3 intake, nitrous sitting on top of tubular LS1 tubular k member and tubular upper/lower control arms

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

The adjustable lowers are basically just for correcting wheel base/thrust angle. Usually cars that are lowered as far as your with a 28" tire tend to push the wheels forward in the wheel wells. I also highly recommend them if you plan on going with an aftermarket rear end as they will make up for variations in mounting provisions The adjustable arms help correct this. An adjustable panhard is a must however. Also, I would HIGHLY recommend control arm relocation brackets to correct your control arm angles and help combat wheel-hop as well. With as far as you are lowered, that will be a big problem for you. An adjustable torque arm will definitely be in the parts list as well, as your driveline angles are going to be hating life

UMI Sales

iTrader: (1)

Your on the right track with what you have mentioned above.You'll be glad you have those adjustable components at some point!

I think the springs and shocks are hampering you as far as being a track car goes. I would invest in some double adjustable shocks so you can dial in the compression and rebound individaully.

You didn't really mention anything about what torque arm your running.If your using the stock set-up I'd look at getting the mounting point of the tail shaft. If your building a track car and aren't concerned about handling I'd go with the short tunnel mount style.

Craig

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Once I got a 12 bolt rear, all adjustable suspension, set everything where I wanted it even my stock wheels were sitting way too far back. No clue how they got there cause they hadn't always been like that. That made the adjustable lowers mandatory for me. My rear setup is adjustable lowers, relo brackets (set on the lowest hole), adjustable panhard, short tunnel mount torque arm (set on the lowest hole), and drag sway bar. Shocks are viking coilovers with the 150lb spring. Height is dialed in pretty neutral, not low or high. I previously had a long style torque arm with the crossmember that got it off the trans tail.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Rear drag bar: