What torque arm to go with?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 1
From: Mishawaka, IN
What torque arm to go with? Have an auto LS1, getting the Koni yellows from WS6 store, $850 for the whole set, already have BMR lowering springs. Planning on buying the adjustable panhard bar from Founders.
My FINAL piece to lowering the car is the torque arm. This car will almost never go to the strip, so I don't really care about that, of course I still want the car to launch decently, and handling is the number one priority for this car, it's plenty fast enough for me as is, but if I can increase traction that'd help too.
So, what's a good torque arm to go with for a purely street application?
This is the one I was thinking of, it's also the most inexpensive by far.
http://www.foundersperformance.com/1...page=2#reviews
My FINAL piece to lowering the car is the torque arm. This car will almost never go to the strip, so I don't really care about that, of course I still want the car to launch decently, and handling is the number one priority for this car, it's plenty fast enough for me as is, but if I can increase traction that'd help too.
So, what's a good torque arm to go with for a purely street application?
This is the one I was thinking of, it's also the most inexpensive by far.
http://www.foundersperformance.com/1...page=2#reviews
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 5,798
Likes: 16
From: St.Charles MO
Go for it, should be nothing wrong with that one.
However you do NOT need an aftermarket torque arm when lowering, the guys selling them might tell you its a must, but they are trying to make a quick buck. Get the car together and drive it, if the pinion angle is off enough to cause vibrations THEN get an adjustable torque arm, they will do very little for handling, especially compared to shocks/springs/swaybars.
However you do NOT need an aftermarket torque arm when lowering, the guys selling them might tell you its a must, but they are trying to make a quick buck. Get the car together and drive it, if the pinion angle is off enough to cause vibrations THEN get an adjustable torque arm, they will do very little for handling, especially compared to shocks/springs/swaybars.
I agree, an adjustable torque arm is not always needed.
Depending on how hard you will "launch" the car you might want to consider getting the front mounting point of the torque arm off the transmission with a relocation kit.
You will still be able to use your factory torque arm if needed.
Craig
Depending on how hard you will "launch" the car you might want to consider getting the front mounting point of the torque arm off the transmission with a relocation kit.
You will still be able to use your factory torque arm if needed.
Craig
When purchasing LCA & PHB gives us a chance as I think most will be shocked on how competitive our LCA & PHB pricing is. Plus you always get our advice long after the sale.
As for torque arm I will tell you that changing to an aftermarket one is a good idea. I've seen to many tail shafts broke from a torque arm being mounted to it and once you put a more ridged torque arm to it chances are better that it will break it. Secondly I have seen to many factory torque arms rip apart at the mounting bolts attaching it to the rear end.
If you plan to push your vehicle to its limits every now and then some things have to be upgraded, not only for safety but for saving you money and head aches down the road. The torque arm falls into this category.
As for torque arm I will tell you that changing to an aftermarket one is a good idea. I've seen to many tail shafts broke from a torque arm being mounted to it and once you put a more ridged torque arm to it chances are better that it will break it. Secondly I have seen to many factory torque arms rip apart at the mounting bolts attaching it to the rear end.
If you plan to push your vehicle to its limits every now and then some things have to be upgraded, not only for safety but for saving you money and head aches down the road. The torque arm falls into this category.
Do you need an adjustable torque arm after lowering? No. Just be prepared to deal with driveline vibrations. The idea of the adjustable torque arm is to correct pinion angle and get rid of driveline misalignment and vibrations, not for changing anything traction related. Hope this helps in your decision
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Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
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www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
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Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2013
Posts: 388
Likes: 1
From: Mishawaka, IN
So the TA just helps reduce driveshaft vibrations and reduces the chance of me damaging or destroying my tail shaft?
It's just my Sunday driver, I drive it 1 or 2 days a week at most, and maybe once a month in the winter, but when I do break it out I like to do some spirited driving.
It's just my Sunday driver, I drive it 1 or 2 days a week at most, and maybe once a month in the winter, but when I do break it out I like to do some spirited driving.
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Not by itself, no. An adjustable torque arm will help CORRECT your pinion angle if it is off to begin with, which will then reduce vibrations if you have vibrations that are caused by a misaligned pinion angle to begin with. The end of the torque arm from the factory is mounted on the tail shaft of the tranny, which in turn if you have lots of power that you're putting down quickly (launching at the strip), it's a possibility that you could damage your tail shaft. Torque arm relocation kits simply move the end of the torque arm off the tranny and onto the tranny cross member, which then you won't worry about breaking your tail shaft
So the TA just helps reduce driveshaft vibrations and reduces the chance of me damaging or destroying my tail shaft?
It's just my Sunday driver, I drive it 1 or 2 days a week at most, and maybe once a month in the winter, but when I do break it out I like to do some spirited driving.
It's just my Sunday driver, I drive it 1 or 2 days a week at most, and maybe once a month in the winter, but when I do break it out I like to do some spirited driving.
You should consider the MWC full length adjustable arm. It comes with a best of both worlds design incorporating both poly bushing and heim joint connections to allow full suspension movement and no noise transfer into the car. http://www.midwestchassis.com/torque...ssmembers.html
This depends on your power level and how hard you will be launching the car. However I am a firm believer in relocating the torque arm anyways. I learned this with my first ls/6 speed ws6. Kept tearing transmission mounts, and then ripped the top bolt out of the tailshaft of the trans and slammed my torque arm against my floor board. I have also seen people snap the tailshaft housing off the trans. That being said, I would recommend it if you plan on driving the car hard in any conditions, especially if you plan on launching it
__________________
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
Glenn ***
Sales Tech
www.bmrsuspension.com
813.986.9302
Find a Quality alignment shop near you!
With our torque arms that isn't required, we do not try and waste customers time with just relocating the torque arm off of the tailshaft. Sure it saves the tailshaft but if you are going to purchase a torque arm we feel it is best to go fully adjustable now and save yourself money down the road.
I've built a lot of vehicles for myself, friends, and customers and one thing always rings true and we all try to save money purchasing non adjustable suspension to find ourselves later needing it for one reason or another.
I haven't met to many hotrodders that are ever satisfied with their build and don't push it a little bit.
I also have had two buddy's break the tailshaft with bone stock automatic F-Bodys, it doesn't take much to break them.
I've built a lot of vehicles for myself, friends, and customers and one thing always rings true and we all try to save money purchasing non adjustable suspension to find ourselves later needing it for one reason or another.
I haven't met to many hotrodders that are ever satisfied with their build and don't push it a little bit.
I also have had two buddy's break the tailshaft with bone stock automatic F-Bodys, it doesn't take much to break them.
Simple... No.
Best thing is to just use the MWC tunnel mount torque arm package. Comes with a crossmember, driveshaft loop, and already full adjustable at front and rear. All hardware is included and comes in a powdercoated finish. just simply remove the factory arm off the trans and leave the trans mount in the car. The MWC torque arm setup will bolt in quickly and easily.
http://www.midwestchassis.com/torque...ssmembers.html
Best thing is to just use the MWC tunnel mount torque arm package. Comes with a crossmember, driveshaft loop, and already full adjustable at front and rear. All hardware is included and comes in a powdercoated finish. just simply remove the factory arm off the trans and leave the trans mount in the car. The MWC torque arm setup will bolt in quickly and easily.
http://www.midwestchassis.com/torque...ssmembers.html