Fighting traction when front end settles with lighter rear springs
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Been fighting traction when front end settles since I went to lighter rear spring rates and looking for suggestions... Car moves out about 30 ft carrying the wheels 6" then spins as the front end hits the ground. QA1 dbl adj on front and rear. Car is chained down in the front and has about 1" front travel. Shock settings are full stiff compression in the front and Rear. 14 clicks for rear extension and 13 clicks for front extension.
Car has been rolling over to the passenger side to the point I was running out of shock travel, so I had to raise the rear of the car up about 1". Going to try to stiffen the ARB this week and lower the car back down.
I believe the car is too high in the rear and rolling over as the front settles. I have tried less compression in the front and it still spins. 275 MT PRO tire, car wt distribution around 53% to the front.
Car has been rolling over to the passenger side to the point I was running out of shock travel, so I had to raise the rear of the car up about 1". Going to try to stiffen the ARB this week and lower the car back down.
I believe the car is too high in the rear and rolling over as the front settles. I have tried less compression in the front and it still spins. 275 MT PRO tire, car wt distribution around 53% to the front.
#2
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Let me start by saying I'm no expert here, but am an engineer who has been doing a considerable amount of reading on chassis design, and tuning lately. From what I've read limiting your front travel to 1" is a big mistake, and is a crutch or bandaid for another problem like your IC being too high or too far back. If you only have 1" of travel when it comes down it transfers weight to the front much faster than if you had 2 or 3" to transfer that weight and wouldn't upset the chassis so violently. It would be like falling on 1" of padding vs 2 or 3 which will give a softer landing.
The other positive would be that you would get a little more rotation and may carry the front to 60' or further. With more speed before the weight transfers off the rear and back onto the front, you should have a little more traction to spare.
Just my 2 cents, if it were my car that's what I'd try next, just give it an extra inch on the chains in the front and see if it improves.
The other positive would be that you would get a little more rotation and may carry the front to 60' or further. With more speed before the weight transfers off the rear and back onto the front, you should have a little more traction to spare.
Just my 2 cents, if it were my car that's what I'd try next, just give it an extra inch on the chains in the front and see if it improves.
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Strapping the front down is a very common practice and gives you some wiggle room to compensate for poor track conditions if needed. Adding travel would likely fix this issue, but may also lead to others.
Before changing front travel limits, I would prefer to see you try softening the compression on the rear. It seems like it is "bouncing off" the shocks and transferring back to the front.
Also, just curious, was the car working well before? If so, why did you make the spring rate change?
Before changing front travel limits, I would prefer to see you try softening the compression on the rear. It seems like it is "bouncing off" the shocks and transferring back to the front.
Also, just curious, was the car working well before? If so, why did you make the spring rate change?
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Before changing front travel limits, I would prefer to see you try softening the compression on the rear. It seems like it is "bouncing off" the shocks and transferring back to the front.
Also, just curious, was the car working well before? If so, why did you make the spring rate change?
Also, just curious, was the car working well before? If so, why did you make the spring rate change?
The last pass I made last week I loosened the rear compression a couple clicks and it still spun, then shook the tires bad getting back into the gas. also this year I have been more careful with the front travel due to dragging the bumper last year too many times and destroying parts landing... (Also removed weight from rear over the winter)
this is week I have stiffened the arb, added 1" shock travel and lowered the car back down. Hopefully I can keep from spinning. if it still spins I will add some front travel.
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After watching both sides frame by frame it does look like you were getting separation on the driver's side and squatting the passenger side. Looks like the passenger tire unloads and brings the drivers side with it. I think you made a good choice with the adjustments you have made
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#6
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Have you had a chance to run the car again? I'm interested in how your adjustments worked out for you. With cooler weather now,traction will become more and more difficult.
I watched the videos again, mainly just to hear the turbo spool again. That part never gets old.
I watched the videos again, mainly just to hear the turbo spool again. That part never gets old.
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