So there seems to be a black hole that sucks in all info about this install...

I am installing umi upper and lower front control arms, and it's amazing how little info there is. I could be missing something but I don't see any possible way to get a torque wrench much less any type of ratchet or wrench on the bolts that go through the bushings on the upper arms as the shock/spring block access.... the instructions say to torque with suspension preloaded at ride height. This is starting to irritate me.. please save me.... thank you.

 

Don't remember it being that difficult. Can you post a photo of the area?

 

I posted a photo but it needs moderator approval before it posts, Thanks for the quick response but i guess we'll have to wait.

 

I saw them. Putting the head of the bolt on the inside and the nut to the outside might free up some space but I don't think there is a way to torque both on the car with shocks and springs installed. Mine has rod ends which move more freely so I torqued off car. You have poly and I've seen a few threads of binding issues when torqued off car. You may have to use loctite, box wrenches, and some muscle and just snug them up really tight.

Hopefully one of the UMI or BMR reps spot this and chime in.

 

Hello,

Torque wrench is most likely a no go, just skip it. Wrenches should fit, what I recommend is to use a jack under the lower a-arm with no tire installed to jack the suspension up until it is at loaded position and tighten the bolts there. This simulates loaded suspension and helps prevent bind.

Our other guy Craig UMI Sales will most likely see this and chime in with a few more details I am sure.

 

To my knowledge there is no secret here. It's just as big a pain with factory a-arms as it is with aftermarket. The simplest approach to it is load the suspension as Ryan stated earlier and use wrenches. The "torque spec" we use here at the shop is moderately tight by hand with wrenches.

Factory torque spec. is probably going to be too tight when using polyurethane bushings. The key is to have your suspension working freely.

I would recommend using a lock nut or loctite this way there's no chance of something loosening up.

Craig

 

Thanks a bunch. I kinda wondered if that was the method i should use, just dont like skipping a torque spec instruction, but that makes sense. I know there are various numbers floating around for the (moog?) ball joints that you send with your upper and lower kit. What torque do you guys use on the upper and lower ball Joints?

The kit looks great and cannot wait to get it on the street. Thanks again.

 

40lb on the upper - 70lb on the lower. If the nut doesn't line up for the key to line up just snug it up until you can get the key in.

Craig

 

Tried posting this last night but aparently it didn't post. So frustrating.. simplified version-
On my car for whatever reason one lca has to be adjusted much shorter than the other in order to get the bolts through the bushing and joint, Making the sway bar hookup pretty funky. Worried that an alignment shop isn't going to be able to overcome the difference to get it set right what would cause this???

I'm talking one side is turned in 8 180° rotations than the other.

Fyi I have the umi lcas that only the rear (vertical) is adjustable. Front horizontal bushing is solid