Viking coilovers
12-07-2016, 01:10 PM
#21
ssvert = Eric
MidwestChassis = Kevin
MidwestChassis2 = Jason
For a heavily driven street vehicle I would probably stay with the stud upper, however I would replace all the used stuff with new due to age and wear. Now don't get me wrong the clevis upper will survive it could however be a tad bit harsher of a ride and I would say this gently because what is hard to one person isn't to someone else.
Clevis upper all though isn't exactly the same as a strut upper of a Mustang you could compare them. As the strut travels through a monoball bearing and uses spacers to take up the difference when using a set of caster camber plates. Plenty of Mustangs street driven for years this way.
12-07-2016, 03:24 PM
#22
I've got bearing uppers with my setup albeit it a completely different shock and spring and I don't have any issues on the street that I would attribute to the bearing mounts. Frankly getting rid of that rubber water cup would be worth it to me on a car that sees rain.
12-07-2016, 06:48 PM
#23
I've got bearing uppers with my setup albeit it a completely different shock and spring and I don't have any issues on the street that I would attribute to the bearing mounts. Frankly getting rid of that rubber water cup would be worth it to me on a car that sees rain.
12-12-2016, 06:23 PM
#24
It hurts a little more every time I am called Eric.
ssvert = Eric
MidwestChassis = Kevin
MidwestChassis2 = Jason
For a heavily driven street vehicle I would probably stay with the stud upper, however I would replace all the used stuff with new due to age and wear. Now don't get me wrong the clevis upper will survive it could however be a tad bit harsher of a ride and I would say this gently because what is hard to one person isn't to someone else.
Clevis upper all though isn't exactly the same as a strut upper of a Mustang you could compare them. As the strut travels through a monoball bearing and uses spacers to take up the difference when using a set of caster camber plates. Plenty of Mustangs street driven for years this way.
ssvert = Eric
MidwestChassis = Kevin
MidwestChassis2 = Jason
For a heavily driven street vehicle I would probably stay with the stud upper, however I would replace all the used stuff with new due to age and wear. Now don't get me wrong the clevis upper will survive it could however be a tad bit harsher of a ride and I would say this gently because what is hard to one person isn't to someone else.
Clevis upper all though isn't exactly the same as a strut upper of a Mustang you could compare them. As the strut travels through a monoball bearing and uses spacers to take up the difference when using a set of caster camber plates. Plenty of Mustangs street driven for years this way.
Thank for you help. I will order tomorrow
12-14-2016, 11:47 AM
#25
One of the good things about the Vikings is the ease in which you can change valving. If you buy a set of Crusaders, and the valving isn't exactly what you want, you can change the internals easily and try again. Also, Viking is actively developing new valve codes all the time. We can help with dyno charts, advice, coordination between the customer and Viking engineering and so forth.
We race what we sell.
ramey
We race what we sell.
ramey
12-14-2016, 03:41 PM
#26
One of the good things about the Vikings is the ease in which you can change valving. If you buy a set of Crusaders, and the valving isn't exactly what you want, you can change the internals easily and try again. Also, Viking is actively developing new valve codes all the time. We can help with dyno charts, advice, coordination between the customer and Viking engineering and so forth.
We race what we sell.
ramey
We race what we sell.
ramey
I'd assume the steps are the same:
1. Determine what spring and stuff you're using
2. ship shock to company with specs
3. wait
4. get shocks back
12-14-2016, 03:47 PM
#27
Take shock off.
Lay shock down.
Remove rebound adjuster.
Replace guts with new guts.
Reinstall in reverse order.
Adjustment range is broad so if the curve moves up or down slightly it doesn't matter too much other than requiring on-car testing.
So, it's different.
ramey
Lay shock down.
Remove rebound adjuster.
Replace guts with new guts.
Reinstall in reverse order.
Adjustment range is broad so if the curve moves up or down slightly it doesn't matter too much other than requiring on-car testing.
So, it's different.
ramey