The red monster

Looks good!

JD_AMG

Ground clearance should not be an issue with any watts link regardless of brand unless you plan on going rock climbing with the car.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Finally got to test drive the new setup after waiting for my Meziere pump to arrive. Right off the bat you can tell the car is different. Rear is much more composed and soaks up bumps a lot better. Feels like a lot more like an IRS, can't wait to see how it does at the next autocross...

Cpt.Derrek

iTrader: (13)

looks good, about time you go watts link maybe its just the video but were you able to get the link bars parallel when you install it? it looks like the drivers side is level and the passenger side is at a different angle, but could be the angle of the camera.

And damn your exhaust is low!

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

Was on the fence with an IRS setup as there's a company that builds them now for 4th gens. But after so many people having nothing but positive things to say with their Watts Link in how it feels way more planted an IRS like, I as well will be waiting on a UMI version and save myself a ton of cash in the process. 6K for a complete bolt-in/minor weld IRS system.

MidwestChassis2

iTrader: (1)

I thought you was looking to save money? Why not save weight and money and go with the Midwest Chassis Watts link that everyone is ranting and raving about that works flawlessly and does use any poly joints or weigh a ton.

I may be bias though.

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

@SRZ:
Who does IRS for 4th gens? I have yet to see anything other than completely handmade custom jobs with any cred.

SRZ

iTrader: (14)

This is their 3rd Gen package. And I misquoted price. 7K starting. They're in production for 4th Gen last I heard and will be available later this yr unless something changes.

http://www.heidts.com/part/irc-301-1...ro-f-body-irs/

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

7 grand and they don't list any of the alignment specs? Makes me a bit nervous...

79_T/A

iTrader: (1)

Fixed that for you... and I agree 100%. 7 grand and they don't tell you a thing about it, and that's the base price with crap shocks.

Chrisingermany

Got the car back up on the lift a little while ago. Made sure everything was still tight and hadn't moved (hasn't moved at all) and checked out the rest of the suspensions. Had to tighten a few things, as this is the first time I had some time to do a once over since the k-member and lower a arms were installed. Have an event this weekend so I want to play with the roll center a little to see how that changes the feel.

smitty2919

move it up = oversteer
move it down = understeer

The lower you go the more you'll need stiffer springs. With my strano 150 rate rears I would keep it middle hole or move it up. Currently I run 2nd hole from the top on my Fay's 2.

smitty2919

Looks like you need to clock your PS axle mount down more to make the rod parallel to the ground at static ride height.

Boxxx

Not to hijack but since I have two people here that just put on a Watt's link I guess I'll ask here instead of making a new post like I intended. I'm to the point of fed up with the solid axle of my car because of how it behaves over rough roads and especially spirited driving on rough twisty roads. I guess to make a long story short did the Watt's link stop the axle shimmying side to side over irregularities and arcing through turns? Also I'm not sure if either of you had come across it before but on tight uphill or downhill turns the axle will actually bind and hop instead of going through the turn smoothly, does the Watt's link solve this as well? Based on how it works it should stop the shimmying and arcing since it keeps the axle centered throughout travel and the arcing is from the PHB, but I'm not sure if even it can stop axle binding in tight steep turns. It's to the point where I'm ready to sell the car and buy something with IRS because then I know I won't have these problems and I don't have to risk almost $700 only to find out I still don't like how the solid axle performs.

dojob

watts purpose is to stop the lateral movement/arching

Boxxx

From the diagrams and descriptions I've come across I thought it should stop the shimmying and arcing, and my hope was that it'd eliminate it entirely, but it still leaves the concern of binding and hopping on sharp inclined transitions. From the animated depictions of Watt's links in use it should help, but I don't think it'll eliminate it but that's just because you're asking a solid axle to do what can give even an IRS fits. Of course I realize it's a rare instance and usually only occurs on mountain roads, but those are the kind of roads I like driving on.

smitty2919

Stop overthinking it...a Watts link is what you want and will like. No PHB setup will eliminate side to side movement of the axle through it's travel. Simple geometry.

M4N14C

iTrader: (3)

Yep they're both parallel to the ground now. I can tell the difference as well, must have been binding or something.

There's an off-ramp on my way home from work that loops around with a small kink halfway 'round. I would always take this going 50-60 and every time I hit that kink the rear would jump out. Now I hardly notice it.

Don't get me wrong, I would love to fab up my own IRS swap but given the fact that I could buy a C5 for the same amount of money, a Watts is a good compromise.

JD_AMG

The watts link eliminates the side-to-side movement and the arc movement.
The axle moves straight up and down, and is even/centered when one wheel is up/other is down compared to the axle shifting to the side in the same conditions with a PHB.

As for the "binding"(?) and hopping on sharp inclined transitions that sounds like a different issue entirely. I never experienced that with the PHB or watts link, and I like the same driving conditions you do. Can you easily replicate this in a parking lot? -If so what speed and how much steering are you putting in?
What all do you have on the rear of your car mod wise? LCAs? PHB? Torque arm? Relocation brackets? etc

Boxxx

Yes I agree wholeheartedly on the Watt's superiority, but my concern is if the Watt's link will allow the solid axle to perform to my satisfaction. In many ways I guess it will since the shimmying and arcing is 90% of my problem with the solid axle and the binding and hopping through sharp inclined turns is 10%. What's stirred up the sudden frustration is after moving there's a turn I take every day that's about 130° with about a 20° incline and every time if I take it at speed the axle will bind and hop through it, then the rest of the road is twisty with lots of irregularities so it just shimmies and arcs the entire time. Prior to moving there was a road I traveled often that went through the mountain and there was an 180° turn with about a 25° incline and it would bind and hop every time even slowing down to go through it. I like the car otherwise and all that aside it actually handles well, but it's enough to make me want to sell it and get another Miata.

The only things suspension wise that's been done was the previous owner put on a 32mm front sway bar and 21mm rear sway bar along with putting in KYB shocks, he also changed the sway bushings to poly. The only thing I've done handling wise is put on the 9.5" wide sawblades covered in 275/40-17 BF Goodrich Sport COMP-2 tires.