ws6-speed

Nice work Chris!

I wasn't aware that the lower ball joint boot had to be pressed in place? Mine were loose and I just made sure to align them inboard as marked before tightening up the front LCA. I'm wondering if I need to go back and re-do that?

Also, regarding torquing the bushings, the upper LCA's can be torqued without load. They don't have any resistance when loaded. The lowers are also the same as far as I know. The only thing in front that requires load is the sway bar end links, but it's probably worth double checking.

eb110americana

iTrader: (4)

I don't believe this is correct. You can torque the ball joints and the tie-rods without load. The vertical lower control arm bushing can be torqued without load as well. However, both upper control arm bushings and the lower horizontal bushing must be at or near nominal ride-height before you tighten them down. Otherwise, you will be putting constant twisting stress on the rubber, and also adding additional spring torque to the suspension in one direction.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

ws6-speed, if the boot is on and isn't going to come off, don't worry about it. I was trying to put in on by hand and as I got one side on, another side would pop off, I got so frustrated after 10 minutes I just broke out the press and it was done.

However, the upper control arms definably require load or at least ride height to be torqued. I couldn't torque them on the car which is why I mocked them up on the car with the arm supported close to ride height and torque them off. When you torque them down, the rubber holds the arm in place and if don't do it in the right spot, there will be a constant stress on the rubber like eb110americana said.

eb110americana, you're absolutely right, the spindle seats in the ball stud of the ball joints and tie rod end and ride height shouldn't make a difference. I already had the lower arm supported so I said what the heck, but I'll clarify that.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

Here's a question for you guys, how did you access the upper control arm bolts and nuts while it's on the car?

I can access the forward ones with some wrenches, but the rear ward ones are tucked behind the springs and damn close to touching it. I don't think I can fit anything in there and I'd like to loosen and torque them once the springs settle but I don't want to remove them from the car like I had to do.

smitty2919

When I did mine, I believe I took everything out and left the control arm to upper mount together. I marked the relationship between them with a marker and tightened them off the car then installed.

Doesn't help you much since you took everything apart to paint etc.

What you could do it weld the nut to the upper mount...then you only need to deal with getting a wrench on the bolt (and hope the nut doesn't break the weld LOL). Since the upper mount is not slotted (I THINK) for alignment purposes this should help you.

Also, as the suspension compressed, the spring will move outward and away from that nut which MAY allow you to tighten it. But you will need to safely load the front suspension onto the control arms with the wheel off to get up there with wrenches.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

This past weekend I wasn't thinking about it, I jacked up the arm to slightly lift the car off the jack stand on that side, however I still had the jack stand under the K-member on the other side and not the arm making me think that the suspension wasn't fully compressed, it was slightly compressed plus tilting the car on the other jack stand.

I think I'm going to try and jack the car up from the K-member and place the jackstands under the arms and slowly let it down so the full weight of the front end is on the arms. It's a PITA to remove that shock spring assembly, I'd hate to do it again just to set those bushings properly but I'll have to if I can't get in there with a wrench. We'll see what I can get done.

It's funny working on one side takes forever to figure out all the little tricks to get it done right, then putting it together on the other side takes like an hour once you know everything.

smitty2919

Keep in mind the arms will be moving outward as it compresses so be careful lowing the car down on 2 jackstands on the arms. The jackstands could start to tilt.

You could also use 2 jacks under each control arm with jackstands under the k-member as safety.

dojob

+1...

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

I know the arms move outward slightly which is why I said I'd lower it slowly and I wouldn't remove the jack from under the k member in that condition. I'd much rather keep the stands where they are and use two jacks but I only have one jack at the moment which is why I'm considering the other way. Maybe I'll see if I can grab another from a friend.

smitty2919

Shiiiiiiiit I have 3 jacks LOL Two smaller Craftsman ones and a large Harbor Freight low profile one. Each has their uses.

The large one works great under the diff getting the rear up easily. Small ones work great when you have no room for a large jack handle to swing around.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

I'm planning on getting a nice low pro aluminum jack this summer/spring. At stock ride height I need to drive the front up on bricks to get my current jack under the K frame.

ws6-speed

Guys, I'm completely confused. The upper a arms spin freely around the bushing. Why would there be any torque there? Maybe it's different with the poly front upper bushings vs the rubber?

The front bushing on the front lower control arm I can understand, but it's going to be released and retorqued during alignment. Same with the rear bushing on the front lower control arm.

chevy94c

Looks good

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

ws6-speed, can't say for poly, but when the rubber bushings on the upper arms are torqued down, the arm doesn't spin freely from the mount, the rubber kind of holds the arm in place.

ws6-speed

Must be a difference with the poly. It moves freely even when torqued down.

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

I know rod ends spin freely, I think poly does too but I'm not sure. Rubber replacements definably don't.

So I'm running to get this thing done for our annual NJ Pontiac run on the 15th of this month. I got the brakes installed last night in a rush, I'll get pics tonight. I need to install pads, bleed them, and check for leaks, I'm expecting at least one, hoping for none. I may also need to adjust the hoses a little so they don't rub on the shock at full lock.

All I have left to do after that is the front sway bars, re-torque the upper control arms, install rear springs, shocks, new rear lower control arms, lower control arm brackets, rear sway bar, adjustable panhard, bleed the rear brakes, change the oil, I already flushed the coolant so it just needs to be refilled and bled.

Finally, I also need to order and install tires like now, if anyone has any input. I would go for DOT approved soft compound race tire but the car isn't in a climate controlled garage and I don't have an extra set of rims to put on in the winter time so I can bring the soft compounds inside to avoid cracking in the cold.

I'm currently looking at the following tires

• Firestone Indy 500 in 275/35R18 which is an absolutely great price and I hear great things
• BFG G-Force Sport Comp-2 275/35ZR18 which I hear is good but starts to get a little slippery after a couple laps on the track.
• Michelin Pilot Super Sport 275/35ZR18 which I also hear good things but is a couple hundred more for a set compared to the Firestones, wondering if it's worth it

smitty2919

BFG Rival. 200TW DOT approved tire. It has become THE tire to have that can seem to do everything fairly well. Daily driving, autocross and road racing.

Basically all the top finishers of OPTIMA events run them. I finally got my hands on a used set in 315/30/18 and they feel just as good as OLD (but not completely worn out) Hoosier A6's.

Edit: Just realized all your options are only 275's...why is that? Are you running 18x9.5's?

ws6-speed

Just confirmed with BMR that the poly spins freely but rubber doesn't

StoneColdLT1

iTrader: (8)

18x9.5's on all four corners for now. Got a used set of OEWheels black chrome C6Z spyder replicas in 40mm offset. I like them because I don't need a spacer to clear the Brembo's.

I'd consider a 18x10.5 in the future if I can find a set that will clear properly without a spacer. I could also get DOT approved soft compound tire then as I could get some crap tires to put on the current spyders for the winter.

smitty2919

I'm not sure what cheap 18x10.5 will clear on your car. To not run spacers you would need to look into a custom offset Forgestar I bet. Those will be the "cheapest" large wheel I think.

I need a 15mm spacer on the front of my car running OEM 18x10.5 C5Z wheels with a +56 offset I believe (56-15 = 41mm resulting offset). Otherwise I hit the spindle.