Like many others, i have abs inop after a rear install, 4 channel. Happens at highway speeds. Tech 2 shows one rear sensor functions up high, the other starts to spike. Obviously trued other sensors, and other harnesses, and can rule out any sort of module errors due to it functioning fine at speeds under 75.

Same problem but at less speeds also happened to me on my old z28 with the s60, 4 channel.

So, the one thing ive thought of, i know im really stretching it here, but my 9 inch i opted for new strange reluctor rings. The s60 would have came with new strange reluctor rings. I noticed that stranges are painted, but the 10 bolt oe rings are bare metal. Im considering pulling the axles and having a shop remove the strange rings, and install the used oe rings, thinking that maybe for whatever reason, the paint on the strange ones can cause the sensors to misread.

I just really like my abs, its a street car, and u never know when ur goona need it. Thoughts? Anybody using oe reluctor rings on ur aftermarket rear and having problems still?

 

Mine would not function using a Strange 12 bolt, OEM backing plates and all OEM ABS hardware. It all worked before on the 10 bolt. The only variable that would have changed (with the rearend swap) was the location of the ring on the axle in relationship to the sensor on the backing plate.

 

Was hoping to get a response from someone using oe rings, regardless pos or neg. i wonder if the psition of the ring on the axle is off. Like the "seat" on the axle that the ring butts up againts preventing it from going far enough or its going too far

 

I'm no engineer, but I feel that paint would not make "an appreciable" difference, given the size of the teeth on the rings. But it's worth a shot if you can clean it off. The position of the sensor relative to the ring is probaby very important.

 

It would be wise to clean the paint of the reluctor ring to inspect it for cracks. The reluctor itself is not magnetized but it is magnetic. The abs sensor in the backing plate, if you use a multimeter to measure it's resistance when disconnected should be 800 to 1200 ohms. When installed but disconnected with the rear wheel spinning the abs sensor should create greater than 100mV AC. Not sure how fast u need to spin the wheel but I think the abs system doesn't go active until greater than 25mph. As the wheel and reluctor ring spins faster, the frequency of the AC signal increases. Different frequencies between wheels and unstable frequencies cause the abs inop. Also very important is the 2 abs wires from the connector at the wheel is a twisted pair all the way to the pcm, because noise cannot get injected into the wires. Service manual says 9 turns per foot on them. If the connector at the sensor has it's wires going straight for more than an inch before disappearing inside the plastic jacket then retwist them. Your problem is likely a cracked reluctor especially if your problems happen greater than 40 mph and someone else pressed them on or they're aftermarket. If abs inop happens at low speed then look more towards sensor pin location in relation to reluctor teeth. Also take the magnetized pin of the wheel sensor and make sure it sticks to each tooth of the reluctor ring with about same amount of force, not the valley of the tooth but the high points of the tooth that pass closest to the pin. If any are obviously noticeable then u got a bad reluctor ring. The paint on the reluctor would not or should not affect the magnetic effect of the wheel sensor, but u can verify that by taking the wheel sensor and checking each tooth

 

Never heard of the twists, will try