I know that wheel hop is a killer. It has been many years since I've run anything at the track. My car -M6- is basically stock power wise. I have BMR Springs, Koni shocks, Founders adjustable LCA's, LCA relo brackets and running NT05R's. Before I did any suspension work and on normal street tires I would frequently get nasty hop on the street. While that's gone away I'd like to know if what I have is sufficient to ward off wheel hop when running at the track. I've heard of people breaking rearends on the 1-2 shift as well as the launch.


What's the difference in losing traction on the street with street tires vs losing it on a track with drag radials? I recall thinking how slippery the track felt while running at Englishtown years ago in another car on street tires. I spun but no hop. I'm basically a newb to track driving for all intents and purposes

I really have no desire to do anymore suspension modding right now.

FYI - I currently have the stock 30K clutch in the car and it will slip sometimes. I'm wondering if this is will help. I also have a Monster 3 for the car which is obviously not gonna slip.

 

There is one great way to find out, take it to the track!

 

Lol, I will next spring hopefully. I'm just wondering if it's something I need to worry about. Do LCA's ELIMINATE wheel hop or just help? Anything else I should do?

 

LCAs' tie the rear end to the subframe(along with the panhard bar and torque arm). Adjustable LCAs' allow for moving(centering) the wheels/tires in the wheelwells. The angle of the LCAs' is what matters and that's what the LCA relos are for.
Original OEM LCAs' have rubber bushings and allow for quite a bit of movement(comfortable ride) which doesn't help traction and wheel hop.

 

I get that, and have those mods. Do they ELIMINATE wheel hop though?

I basically don't want to ruin m y rear end if I spin and am curious as to what to expect.

 

Going to a heim joint and eliminating poly or rubber bushing will help lca relocation brackets will also help.

 

as far as the 1-2 shift goes, as long as you don't powershift it, you should be ok.

 

There is no one part (or even combination of parts) that guarantees no wheel hop, there are just way too many factors. You will have to go out and run and adjust things/dial things in to get what you want. LCA's can fix wheel hop if your wheel hop is caused by something else like type of tire, tire PSI, your torque arm setting (if its adjustable), your LCA angle, spring/swaybar rate (wheel rate), shocks/shock settings or whatever else there is.
If you feel the car hopping then jump off the gas quick and try another approach.

 

In my personal opinion, replacing the torque arm did a lot more for me than changing out the LCAs. One of the most noticeable mods I've done.

 

From what you have described, I doubt you will have any issues with it. Your parts list covers most of the parts needed to reduce wheel hop. If you experience any still, the next step would be to relocate the torque arm off of the transmission

 

Two people saying torque arm. Ugh. I'd prefer not to touch it. I've heard many say that they get resonance and a general increase in NVH.

If the LCAs control movement front to rear I suppose the torque arm is controlling pinion angle ??

one of the questions I'm also asking is how does the track differ from the street? Are cas more or less prone to issues with DRs on a track vs the street?