ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

Good evening. I've been contemplating on getting new shocks for my 2000 TRANS AM. Was hoping for some insight on what works. I know everyone is recommending the Koni yellows (adjustable/expensive lol) with either strano or BMR springs but I wanted to use stock springs.

Unfortunately my budget doesn't include the better Koni sport but I've read that the str.t are comparable to bilsteins possibly, anyone using stock springs with the Koni strts?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I hear the STR.T's and Bilsteins are very comparable overall with a slight nod to the STR.T's with lowered setups. I run them but with BMR springs

JD_AMG

Stock springs are actually far more ideal with something like the bilstiens or the Koni STR.t's as that is what those shocks were designed for in the first place.
You can use Koni yellows with stock springs as well and get an unbelievable difference in handling, ride, feel and stability. Then later down the road if you choose to lower you already have the best "off the shelf" shock to do it.

jlangley

iTrader: (8)

I've got the str t 's with the bmr springs and am very pleased with the setup. Nice upgrade from stock at a reasonable price.

ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

OK great! I appreciate the feedback,I think the koni yellows may be something further down the line when the car sees more "track time". Any issues I may occur when removing/installing the new ones? I've looked at it, doesn't seem to complicated just some surface rust PB blaster won't help loosen.

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

I have the Str.t's on my personal daily driver with our springs. The car rides great. They are definitely worth the money

ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

I'm following the ls1-how-to guide for this, but I'm stuck on removing the spindle from upper control arm. Got the nut off, but the spindle is stuck. Read he damaged his from prying(trying to reach use as many parts, not replace). Besides heat,pb blaster, and a hammer, any recommendations?

BMR Sales2

iTrader: (40)

Do you still have the shock and spring connected the the lower control arm? If so, let the assembly free hand but have your jack just below the arm. The spring will help put tension on the balljoint to separate it. Then, you can tap on the top of the spindle around where the joint goes into it with a hammer (a real hammer, not a plastic head or dead blow). Sometimes this alone will allow it to pop loose. If not, after doing this you can thread the castle nut back onto the ball joint until it is flush with the threaded portion at the top. Then you can tap against that and usually it will pop apart. If not, you can go to the local auto parts store and rent one of the separator tools

ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

I think I got the hang of it now. I soaked them with pb blaster and taoped the sides of the spindles and they slid right off on both sides. I've never compressed springs before, so I tightened them as much as I could but I can't get the nut off of the top of the shock/rubber pad. I've tried putting vice grips on the end and using a wrench but it seem's I'm just stripping it seeing as I only need the spring and the top mount, can I just use a bolt cutter or do I need something off of it?

jlangley

iTrader: (8)

I had to cut the nuts off both the shocks on mine. They were too rusted to remove. I just used a cold chisel and hammer to split them off.

ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

Okay got springs off, strut mounts seem fine. There's a small cup (don't know technical term) that came with both. I read somewhere it's only for lowered springs... do I need it if I'm using stock springs?

jlangley

iTrader: (8)

I'm not sure what part you might be referring to. Can you post a picture?

ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

Im at work so i found the photobof the shock and parts it came with... im assuming this just slides down and is tapped on top of the shock regardless of lowered or not... too late now anyways haha.

The nut on the end for the strut mount, is there a torque spec on it? I'd hate to decompress the spring and it have too much for it to b handle. Couldn't get a socket to tighten because the rod kept turning, I put vice grips on the end with a wrench on the nut and turned the rod the opposite way to tighten it till I couldn't by hand anymore. By the way... it's a PITA wor king with springs, especially when you realize your compressors are one ring too short of enough clearance for the strut to be mounted

_JB_

iTrader: (33)

The part you circled goes on top of the shock, its what the bumpstop rests on.

As for the top strut nut I just tightened mine snug, never had a problem with it.

jlangley

iTrader: (8)

Yes that part goes on top of the shock after you put the spring perch on.

The nut is a pita to tighten but apparently you can get a clunk if it's not tightened well enough. I just snugged mine up as tight as I could.

one sweet ws6

I didnt have to cut mine used vise scrips and a impact wrench came right off

ls1fan92

iTrader: (5)

I think it's amazing how a hobby can bring many people together on a forum to help accomplish things we struggle with lol. Finished it at 230am, had stripped the driver side when the nut wasnt tight enough and the spring decompressed (luckily it didnt go far). Neighbor owns a shop and tapped the threads. I picked up a 35mm BMR sway bar along the way and mounted it since I don't have the WS6 suspension. The nuts on the end links were tough but i got it mounted back in there. Mine had the "extra" bracket on the driver side but I pulled it, the bar still mounted to the braces just fine.
Car drives like a dream, can definitely feel a difference on curves, there's minimal body roll, if any. I'll be swapping the rear shocks and sway bar next week.

For the strut mount nut, it was too rusted, all the pb blaster in the world would get it. When I installed the new ones, I had the neighbor just put an impact wrench on them. He mounted the springs on for me as well, best 20.00 dollar's spent instead the 195.00 he wanted for installing everything

Thanks again for the information/support