Redrokit8

I just completed installing Strano Bilsteins, UMI Rear Lower Control Arms, Panhard Bar, Front & Rear Energy Suspension End Link Kits, Sway Bar Bushings, Trans Mount & Torque Arm bushings. I did not do the Torque arm replacement and relocation because this is not to be a high horsepower ride this time around and the replacement arms are super duty heavy. No Sub Frame connectors either.
I like the conservative results.
I did not change the front or rear springs due to the fact that I had done so on other vehicles and the ride, for my purposes, was too stiff and the front end too low (IMO) for NJ driving conditions. I do not care for the high rear end look on my 2002 SS and wonder if it would make any sense to install rear only springs and leave the front alone. Also is there a slight drop rear spring that would give me a better look and not such a harsh ride ? Like a "touring" rate spring ?
I also like and want to retain the 10 spoke SS wheels and have put BF Goodrich G-Force Comp 2's, same size all around on.
I would like to hear from anyone who has attempted this approach and is it a bad idea to not have a four spring compatible combination.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

How about the heater hose mod on the stock rear springs?

Redrokit8

Yes, just read it after my Post.
I also like the idea of the Cobra IRS Coil Isolators simply because it would appear to me a more professional approach. Not that the heater hose mod wouldn't work. I would feel like the mod was more permanent and not be concerned with dirt, sand abrasion etc.
I can only imagine what some uninitiated gawkers would say if you told them you just installed your "heater hose lowering kit". Oh yeah, that heater hose sure lays a lot lower under the hood.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I hear ya, but no one will ever see it, it will hold up just fine over time, and cost maybe 3 bucks lol

Redrokit8

Forgot to update this post. I did install the Cobra Isolators. As stated, just lower rear end with shocks disconnected and I was able to take out both side springs by hand. I didn't take any measurements beforehand, but honestly the wheel clearance looks the same ! Now, maybe I have to let everything settle down with new suspension parts etc so a definite decision can't be made.
As soon as I did this little project my auto trans has had to be pulled for front seal and pump work so no miles have been driven.
For you auto trans guys, the 3:42 ring & pinion is really good for my needs. I am pleased I did not go to the 3:73. BTW, I went for OEM ring & pinion parts.
I don't need high horsepower impact gears and the OEM suff has no whines or songs. It is amazing that if you know your car real well you can immediately tell there is a rear gear change just by sound and throttle inputs.
From what I have learned lately when you are on the 16th year of these automatics you can almost be guaranteed to need seals front & rear. I went nuts thinking I had pan gasket problems when in fact it was the front seal. Another area of leakage was the trans fluid cooling lines up and away from sight at the trans housing fittings.