Right now I’m running a UMI tunnel torque arm with a poly trans mount and solid motor mounts. I got the car with most of the suspension mods on it already aside from the engine mounts.

Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I don’t track the car. I’ve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.

Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.

I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?

thanks in advance.

I forget what the pinion angle is. I used BMRs video to set it a while back. I think -2 but not 100% sure.

Lcas and phb are bmr with poly mounts.

O wow that’s impressive. Poly bushing or stock?

I am considering an aftermarket piece full length but they all have the same heim joints that loosen up.

I get a TON of interior vibrations on the freeway. I can also hear a slight gear whine sometimes. That being said, I would prefer to not have another tunnel mounted torque arm. I’ve heard the tunnel mount style creates (amplifies) drivetrain noises into the cabin.

No shake it’s just a consistent vibration. I don’t know what NVH stands for.

How much do used torque arms go for? Maybe I’ll sell mine and make some of my money back.

interesting read because I was suggested a body mount torque arm and am experiencing the exact same issues with rattles and annoying noises. They installed a UMI adjustable when I had my motor work, transmission and LT's. Installed. I've had them readjust it, check my exhaust, lifted the rear slightly with the heater hose mod and still annoying rattles and clunks! My car is also just a street cruiser. My next updates will be stock mount torque arm, subframe connectors and adjustable control arms.

Thats a steal. Full length?

Yea it took me a long time to find out what it was. Had a shop look at it too. I ended up recording the drivetrain while the car was on jack stands with the diff jacked up. Popped the clutch and noticed the TA was jerking in a up/down motion because the joints were loose.

Kinda blows because I let go of the clutch extra slow between shifts to avoid the clunk and I feel like I’m destroying my clutch.

From what I’ve read stockers flex and crack and aftermarket full lengths break tail shafts. Tunnel mounts vibrate pretty bad but I’m sure the solid mounts and cam add to the vibrations too.

Well that’s the issue. I am lowered and I have a moser 12 bolt so I have to use an adjustable arm which is where my clunking issues lies. The bolts that go through the joints on the side of the arm will not stay tight.

Move actually found quite a few threads of people talking about going back to stock after installing a tunnel mount.