Going back to stock torque arm
#1
Going back to stock torque arm
Right now I’m running a UMI tunnel torque arm with a poly trans mount and solid motor mounts. I got the car with most of the suspension mods on it already aside from the engine mounts.
Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I don’t track the car. I’ve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.
Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.
I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?
thanks in advance.
Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I don’t track the car. I’ve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.
Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.
I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?
thanks in advance.
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#9
I am considering an aftermarket piece full length but they all have the same heim joints that loosen up.
I get a TON of interior vibrations on the freeway. I can also hear a slight gear whine sometimes. That being said, I would prefer to not have another tunnel mounted torque arm. I’ve heard the tunnel mount style creates (amplifies) drivetrain noises into the cabin.
I get a TON of interior vibrations on the freeway. I can also hear a slight gear whine sometimes. That being said, I would prefer to not have another tunnel mounted torque arm. I’ve heard the tunnel mount style creates (amplifies) drivetrain noises into the cabin.
#12
Right now I’m running a UMI tunnel torque arm with a poly trans mount and solid motor mounts. I got the car with most of the suspension mods on it already aside from the engine mounts.
Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I don’t track the car. I’ve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.
Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.
I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?
thanks in advance.
Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I don’t track the car. I’ve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.
Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.
I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?
thanks in advance.
#13
NVH stands for noise, vibration and harshness. I got my non adjustable UMI arm for $80, but i normally don't see them that cheap. Prices vary depending on adjustable vs non adjustable
#14
#15
interesting read because I was suggested a body mount torque arm and am experiencing the exact same issues with rattles and annoying noises. They installed a UMI adjustable when I had my motor work, transmission and LT's. Installed. I've had them readjust it, check my exhaust, lifted the rear slightly with the heater hose mod and still annoying rattles and clunks! My car is also just a street cruiser. My next updates will be stock mount torque arm, subframe connectors and adjustable control arms.
#16
Yes sir. That's why I bought it lol. Got a BMR relocation crossmember for $130 a few weeks later as well. To be honest though I think I'm gonna get an adjustable torque arm though, as I'm having vibrations due to not being able to fine tune the pinion angle. Founders sells a good adjustable one for around $230. So I'll probably do that, then sell my other one. Probably can get a bit more than $80 for it too lol
#17
Yes sir. That's why I bought it lol. Got a BMR relocation crossmember for $130 a few weeks later as well. To be honest though I think I'm gonna get an adjustable torque arm though, as I'm having vibrations due to not being able to fine tune the pinion angle. Founders sells a good adjustable one for around $230. So I'll probably do that, then sell my other one. Probably can get a bit more than $80 for it too lol
From what I’ve read stockers flex and crack and aftermarket full lengths break tail shafts. Tunnel mounts vibrate pretty bad but I’m sure the solid mounts and cam add to the vibrations too.
#18
Kinda blows because I let go of the clutch extra slow between shifts to avoid the clunk and I feel like I’m destroying my clutch.
From what I’ve read stockers flex and crack and aftermarket full lengths break tail shafts. Tunnel mounts vibrate pretty bad but I’m sure the solid mounts and cam add to the vibrations too.
#19
Move actually found quite a few threads of people talking about going back to stock after installing a tunnel mount.
#20
not all heim joints are created equal......i know some have inner liners made out of different materials to help extend the life of the joint.......i have a full length MWC arm, helms on all ends, mounted off the trans and hardly ever hear any noise from that......its goona be a little costly but u could try to call mwc and order a few of their heim joints to replace yours and see if that helps, since u already have the long arm