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Going back to stock torque arm

 
Old 07-29-2018, 04:56 PM
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Default Going back to stock torque arm

Right now Iím running a UMI tunnel torque arm with a poly trans mount and solid motor mounts. I got the car with most of the suspension mods on it already aside from the engine mounts.

Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I donít track the car. Iíve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.

Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.

I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?

thanks in advance.

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Old 07-29-2018, 05:00 PM
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You can mount the stock torque arm off the tail shaft.
I pull 1.5x 60's on stock torque arm
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:03 PM
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What's your pinion angle at?
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:49 PM
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what kinds of ends are your lcas and pub
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:58 PM
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I forget what the pinion angle is. I used BMRs video to set it a while back. I think -2 but not 100% sure.

Lcas and phb are bmr with poly mounts.
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Old 07-29-2018, 05:59 PM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A View Post
You can mount the stock torque arm off the tail shaft.
I pull 1.5x 60's on stock torque arm

O wow thatís impressive. Poly bushing or stock?
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:12 PM
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Originally Posted by 35thanni View Post



O wow thatís impressive. Poly bushing or stock?
poly.
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:22 PM
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Either a stock TA with a poly bushing, or full length aftermarket one. Either way a relocation bracket would be a good idea
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:34 PM
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I am considering an aftermarket piece full length but they all have the same heim joints that loosen up.

I get a TON of interior vibrations on the freeway. I can also hear a slight gear whine sometimes. That being said, I would prefer to not have another tunnel mounted torque arm. Iíve heard the tunnel mount style creates (amplifies) drivetrain noises into the cabin.
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:39 PM
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When you say vibrations are you talking an actual shake of some sort of more of a NVH type of thing?
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Old 07-29-2018, 06:52 PM
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No shake itís just a consistent vibration. I donít know what NVH stands for.

How much do used torque arms go for? Maybe Iíll sell mine and make some of my money back.
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:35 PM
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Originally Posted by 35thanni View Post
Right now Iím running a UMI tunnel torque arm with a poly trans mount and solid motor mounts. I got the car with most of the suspension mods on it already aside from the engine mounts.

Tons of noises and clunks with the torque arm and I donít track the car. Iíve tightened it down multiple times but I guess the heim joints on these torque arms are known for loosening up often. I do mostly street rolls and digs. Car sits on 305/35/18 Toyo r888s. No drag radials. Lowered on Sam Strano springs all around. Moser 12 bolt rear end. Manual trans.

Car puts down about 370 rwhp with a small cam and bolt ons.

I hear about stock TA flexing issues and broken trans. tailshafts.. will this be an issue with my driving style? Will I be ok just swapping it back to a stocker?

thanks in advance.

interesting read because I was suggested a body mount torque arm and am experiencing the exact same issues with rattles and annoying noises. They installed a UMI adjustable when I had my motor work, transmission and LT's. Installed. I've had them readjust it, check my exhaust, lifted the rear slightly with the heater hose mod and still annoying rattles and clunks! My car is also just a street cruiser. My next updates will be stock mount torque arm, subframe connectors and adjustable control arms.
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Old 07-29-2018, 07:40 PM
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NVH stands for noise, vibration and harshness. I got my non adjustable UMI arm for $80, but i normally don't see them that cheap. Prices vary depending on adjustable vs non adjustable
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:47 PM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS View Post
NVH stands for noise, vibration and harshness. I got my non adjustable UMI arm for $80, but i normally don't see them that cheap. Prices vary depending on adjustable vs non adjustable
Thats a steal. Full length?
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:49 PM
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Originally Posted by capelajc View Post


interesting read because I was suggested a body mount torque arm and am experiencing the exact same issues with rattles and annoying noises. They installed a UMI adjustable when I had my motor work, transmission and LT's. Installed. I've had them readjust it, check my exhaust, lifted the rear slightly with the heater hose mod and still annoying rattles and clunks! My car is also just a street cruiser. My next updates will be stock mount torque arm, subframe connectors and adjustable control arms.
Yea it took me a long time to find out what it was. Had a shop look at it too. I ended up recording the drivetrain while the car was on jack stands with the diff jacked up. Popped the clutch and noticed the TA was jerking in a up/down motion because the joints were loose.
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Old 07-29-2018, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by 35thanni View Post


Thats a steal. Full length?
Yes sir. That's why I bought it lol. Got a BMR relocation crossmember for $130 a few weeks later as well. To be honest though I think I'm gonna get an adjustable torque arm though, as I'm having vibrations due to not being able to fine tune the pinion angle. Founders sells a good adjustable one for around $230. So I'll probably do that, then sell my other one. Probably can get a bit more than $80 for it too lol
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Old 07-30-2018, 12:58 AM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS View Post
Yes sir. That's why I bought it lol. Got a BMR relocation crossmember for $130 a few weeks later as well. To be honest though I think I'm gonna get an adjustable torque arm though, as I'm having vibrations due to not being able to fine tune the pinion angle. Founders sells a good adjustable one for around $230. So I'll probably do that, then sell my other one. Probably can get a bit more than $80 for it too lol
Kinda blows because I let go of the clutch extra slow between shifts to avoid the clunk and I feel like Iím destroying my clutch.

From what Iíve read stockers flex and crack and aftermarket full lengths break tail shafts. Tunnel mounts vibrate pretty bad but Iím sure the solid mounts and cam add to the vibrations too.
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Old 07-30-2018, 03:52 AM
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Originally Posted by 35thanni View Post


Kinda blows because I let go of the clutch extra slow between shifts to avoid the clunk and I feel like Iím destroying my clutch.

From what Iíve read stockers flex and crack and aftermarket full lengths break tail shafts. Tunnel mounts vibrate pretty bad but Iím sure the solid mounts and cam add to the vibrations too.
Yep I know what you mean with the clutch thing lol. Like I mentioned above a relocation crossmember is always a good idea with either the stock arm or an aftermarket one. If you are lowered at all, or have a aftermarket rear end, I'd highly recommend an adjustable one
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Old 07-30-2018, 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by HCI2000SS View Post
Yep I know what you mean with the clutch thing lol. Like I mentioned above a relocation crossmember is always a good idea with either the stock arm or an aftermarket one. If you are lowered at all, or have a aftermarket rear end, I'd highly recommend an adjustable one
Well thatís the issue. I am lowered and I have a moser 12 bolt so I have to use an adjustable arm which is where my clunking issues lies. The bolts that go through the joints on the side of the arm will not stay tight.

Move actually found quite a few threads of people talking about going back to stock after installing a tunnel mount.
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Old 07-30-2018, 10:42 AM
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not all heim joints are created equal......i know some have inner liners made out of different materials to help extend the life of the joint.......i have a full length MWC arm, helms on all ends, mounted off the trans and hardly ever hear any noise from that......its goona be a little costly but u could try to call mwc and order a few of their heim joints to replace yours and see if that helps, since u already have the long arm
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