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My problem i'm having is my bmr boxed bolt-in subframe connectors, part number sfc023, are hitting my factory fuel lines. as you can see in the picture the sfc needs to be over to the left about 1.5" but no matter how i move the lines around they are in the way. anyone else have this issue or a solution? the instructions on bmr's website did not help. and yes, they will be welded in the future.
To me, without seeing any thing else, I'd draw two possible conclusions. A) the "L" shaped bracket wasn't welded in the correct spot, to the box tubing; or B) I know this might sound "off the wall", but is there any possibility that you have the left and right connectors mixed up?
It does look like it was welded on the wrong side. It is the correct side, As the the brackets are flipped side to side. I will call bmr today. If no solution from them then I plan on cutting and welding a notch in for the lines.
Tom, after talking to our R&D team and going over there install notes. The fuel lines are going to be very tight on the driver side mounting plate on the LT1 cars. I checked the fixture and there is no way for that plate to move during the welding process as it is clamped down in the fixture and located by pins in the holes of the plates. They suggested bundling the lines with and securing them with zip ties, as a last resort we could send you a spacer plate to put between the plate on the sub-frame connector and the frame rail, if additional clearance is needed where the lines pass above the connector. Let me know if you have any additional questions.
I thought about that. I don’t want the fuel lines that low and have them scrap a curb or driveway. My car isn’t lowered but the roads around where I live are very rough.
Since it appears to be square tubing,'notching' it should have very little effect on the overall strength. After 'notching',cut a section of old radiator hose,slit lengthwise,and put it between the lines and notch to prevent the lines from rubbing from vibration against the notch.
My problem i'm having is my bmr boxed bolt-in subframe connectors, part number sfc023, are hitting my factory fuel lines. as you can see in the picture the sfc needs to be over to the left about 1.5" but no matter how i move the lines around they are in the way. anyone else have this issue or a solution? the instructions on bmr's website did not help. and yes, they will be welded in the future.
If it were me, I would try to return these and get my money back to spend on another brand and possibly tubular subframe connectors. Clearly the box-frame style has fitment issues for the fuel lines so why force it? Furthermore, even though "it shouldn't" weaken or compromise the subframe to notch out room for the fuel lines, why even bother? Are box-frames really a mandate for you to have on the car?
I have been looking into replacing mine later on down the road and though my suspension was converted over to BMR, the UMI three-point tubular bolt-on looks pretty nice.
Already bolted them in. I cut out a good amount, filed the edges round, then used some old rubber pad to wrap around with zip ties so the lines won’t be hitting metal. Most aftermarket parts usually need a little massaging.
Just get a set of SFC023 and I got the same problem. Poor fit Really dissapointing. After puting over 5k$ of BMR products on my car, this one is the only one who give me headaches. On the passanger side, on of the 2 holes don't line up correctly. Since I'm in Canada, it would cost me too must to return theses back and have my money. And its the same car.. 95 Firebird.
I contacted bmr as you can see above, and they just said the lines are a tight fit on the LT1 cars. I cut it up and put a notch in. Also my passenger side holes didn’t line up either, I had to do a little more grinding.
I just installed these same subframe connectors on my '97 SS, and had the same issues as NE Formula and LT1 Formula. I removed the clip holding the fuel lines together at that point, and pulled down (not off) the plastic shroud. After some tweaking, I was able to get the subframe connector bolted in without crimping the fuel lines. On the passenger side, I also had to grind out the subframe of the car (rear of rear hole) with a dremel tool to align the bracket holes. Then the front bracket hole started rethreading (grade 8 bolt in softer steel), so I had to pull it out and re-rethread it from the top. It was satisfying to get the torque wrench clicking at 80 and 100# respectively. I will say that the car definitely feels much tighter. Flex is gone (especially noticeable when going onto/off a driveway hump/dip) and there's more road-feel, but you can feel the suspension working more.
I just installed these same subframe connectors on my '97 SS, and had the same issues as NE Formula and LT1 Formula. I removed the clip holding the fuel lines together at that point, and pulled down (not off) the plastic shroud. After some tweaking, I was able to get the subframe connector bolted in without crimping the fuel lines. On the passenger side, I also had to grind out the subframe of the car (rear of rear hole) with a dremel tool to align the bracket holes. Then the front bracket hole started rethreading (grade 8 bolt in softer steel), so I had to pull it out and re-rethread it from the top. It was satisfying to get the torque wrench clicking at 80 and 100# respectively. I will say that the car definitely feels much tighter. Flex is gone (especially noticeable when going onto/off a driveway hump/dip) and there's more road-feel, but you can feel the suspension working more.
Hey man I’m having the same issue. Can you explain to me a little bit more in detail how you made this work? Would you happen to have any pictures? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advanced. Nico
Hey man I’m having the same issue. Can you explain to me a little bit more in detail how you made this work? Would you happen to have any pictures? Any help is appreciated. Thanks in advanced. Nico
I don’t know why so many people tend to make things over complicated for themselves and especially so on this forum. There is a real simple fix for this: Fold the rocker rail pinch point, disconnect the hoses on one side and feed them through the opening. I can show you a pic tomorrow if you haven’t already resolved the issue.
I don’t know why so many people tend to make things over complicated for themselves and especially so on this forum. There is a real simple fix for this: Fold the rocker rail pinch point, disconnect the hoses on one side and feed them through the opening. I can show you a pic tomorrow if you haven’t already resolved the issue.
Hey man with all due respect but isn’t the purpose of these forums to ask questions. We aren’t all as gifted with this kind of stuff as some and rely on other people for help. With that said I would LOVE to see some pictures on how you made this work. TIA
Hey man with all due respect but isn’t the purpose of these forums to ask questions. We aren’t all as gifted with this kind of stuff as some and rely on other people for help. With that said I would LOVE to see some pictures on how you made this work. TIA
Yes it is, I’m just pointing out that others make things entirely more difficult and complicated for themselves than necessary. I’ll have the pics for you later tonight as I’m still out of town at the moment.
Bend the pinch point seam over at the rocker, disconnect lines, install connector, re route each line one at a time through the opening and re connect. My factory plastic lines are missing because I’m about to install PTFE while still using the factory steel lines in stock location.
01-25-2019, 04:48 PM
95 firebird subframe connector problem 
Really dissapointing. After puting over 5k$ of BMR products on my car, this one is the only one who give me headaches. On the passanger side, on of the 2 holes don't line up correctly. Since I'm in Canada, it would cost me too must to return theses back and have my money. And its the same car.. 95 Firebird.
