PICTURES BELOW
Hey guys, took my car out for the first time today since doing the 6 piston front and 4 rear. The rear seems it needs a washer to space out the caliper better but that is another issue. The one I’m not sure of is the fronts. I got skinnies on the front and changed a lot out when I did the 6 pistons. Got new spindles and all too. The car slightly pulls to the right and it looks like the drivers side sticks out slightly further than the passenger. Is this an alignment fix y’all think? Also plan on changing out front tires to Mickey front runners because these race masters both low at full psi,
Driver side

Passenger side

 

The car pulling is an alignment issue, toe is off. I can't tell from the pictures, but camber difference LH to RH will cause the top of the tire to be in a different location. More negative camber will tuck the top of the tire. If the camber/caster are the same left and right and you don't have adjustable UCA and LCA there isn't much you can do. The K-member could be moved a tiny bit, but not much.

 

The most prominent pulling angle in most cases is the side that has the least caster. An example would be something similar to this: LH has 4* of caster 0* camber and toe. RH has 3.75* of caster 0* of camber and toe. A car will most often pull to side with smallest value of caster in this example it would pull most likely to the right. Another thing that most don't know is what is called radial pull. I don't what exactly causes it or how to explain it it just occurs. The fix. Cross rotate your front tires then drive it. I just aligned my 99 a little more than a week ago, similar wheel and tire combination. 275 60R-15 MT ET's on rear and skinny MT radials on the front. Set Caster to 4*+, Camber 0*, Toe 0*, thrust angle was almost 0* not worth mentioning plus I forgot because it was well within factory specifications. One last thing I tell my high school auto students during our alignment unit "the rear drives the car, the front steers it". Have it checked on a good system, have them put the most caster into it allowable. This will help in your straight line endeavors, assuming that's what you are up to, wink, wink.

 

alright i figured, i saw on a previous post that a lot of people have the issue with one side that is out more, but it was only one post so i was seeing what was out there more recent, Plan on getting the UMI front kit later on anyways, so ill get it aligned. Im also changing my tires anyway to the new mickey thompson street front runners.

 

Appreciate the detailed response, ill get it aligned. nice to know how that all works since i figured most people take there cars for alignments and don't do it themselves, seems tough to do without the high end equipment.

 

I just went down the same street. Dumb dumb me pulled the trigger on some et front runners by accident through Summit, I would not recommend these for street use. The sidewall was not good for street use, that is why they wrote "not for highway use" on the tire. I believe them after my mistake. Sent them back. Went with some 27.5"x 4.5" MT radials. They do rub slightly on the bottom of the bumper cover on sharp rh or lh turns. Might be able to fix this if one can tuck the bottom in to the wheel well liner a little tighter. It won't take much. Wanted a similar diameter tire front and back to keep my VSS from conflicting one another and keep the ABS functional for street and highway use. It is not a good practice to mix a radial and bias tire; purely for steering. Guessing a 90% or more drag car one wouldn't notice but my world will soon go back to a 70% street and at best 30% strip. My 66 Chevelle lived this lifestyle in the 90's, it was fun. My plan is the same for my 99 hardtop I've installed a BMR kit in the rear, double adjustable lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar, viking double adjustable shocks, torque arm, sway bar, and sub frame connectors. Got some coil overs this week for the front, they aren't in yet. I would suggest something like this a lot of other members have done similar things with good results. I have to thank them for the information I'm just paying it forward.
My only debate is should I go to the 1/8 mile or 1/4 mile and gear it in the rear for one. The big quest is to minimize one's 60'. Like the 1/8 mile track, nice staff, nice track only negative it's an hour or more further away.
One more thing on your situation. An adjustable panhard bar will help centering your rear differential. Mine was less than 1/8" off when I put a plumb bob on it and took my measurements so no adjusting was needed.at this time. Call it luck maybe. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

i have an adjustable pan hard but these are for the fronts. Got new tires and going to wait on the tubular front kit to even it all out. Currently gutting it to install the cage anyway. How do you like those Viking coil overs? I talked to them at SEMA and figured I would roll with them