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Budget Friendly Struts for Drag Car Only

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Old 03-03-2020, 05:20 PM
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Default Budget Friendly Struts for Drag Car Only

Here is my set-up:
Approximately 350-375HP Currently

UMI Adj Torque Arm
LCA with Drop
Ford 9” Narrowed 3” per side (3.55 and 4.56 Spools)
Comp Engineering C2700 Rear Shocks
Turbo 400 RMVB with Trans Brake
3000 Stall Continental Convertor

Eventually I’ll be replacing the K-Member and going with either a SBC or BBC Conversion.

I want to replace the front struts with something budget friendly for now just to have fun with the car until I can build up the engine for the swap!

So what is recommended for a trailered track only car?
Old 03-04-2020, 07:25 AM
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Plenty of people have cut great 60 foot times with the stock stuff. If you just want new, some Koni Str.t or Koni Yellows that are adjustable would help in tuning the suspension. Or just go coil overs, vikings seems to be popular choice, offer adjust ability and are not outrageous on price.
Old 03-04-2020, 08:31 AM
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Originally Posted by StraightTimeStirrups
Here is my set-up:
Approximately 350-375HP Currently

UMI Adj Torque Arm
LCA with Drop
Ford 9” Narrowed 3” per side (3.55 and 4.56 Spools)
Comp Engineering C2700 Rear Shocks
Turbo 400 RMVB with Trans Brake
3000 Stall Continental Convertor

Eventually I’ll be replacing the K-Member and going with either a SBC or BBC Conversion.

I want to replace the front struts with something budget friendly for now just to have fun with the car until I can build up the engine for the swap!

So what is recommended for a trailered track only car?
For drag racing only you can not beat the cost of Viking Double Adjustable. Talking drag race only you want to get away from shocks in the front that eliminate the stud going into a rubber factory mount. We offer an upper bearing conversion that eliminates all of that and uses an upper clevis mount.

Can be purchased for a T-Bar lower A-Arm- https://midwestchassis.com/products/...h-clevis-upper

Or can be purchased for a 1" bearing lower A-Arm like we offer. https://midwestchassis.com/products/...h-clevis-upper

Which brings us up to what is better a 1" bearing or a T-bar on the A-Arm. A 1" lower bearing shock mount is stronger than a T-bar lower mount. With a T-bar lower mount the bottom of the shock is mounted onto a bracket putting force on it. In a wheel stand situation it could bend that bracket. The 1" bearing has two tabs welded directly onto the tube and will never see that issue.

Another issue with a T-bar shock is the T-bar is mounted in plastic on the shock body itself. This causes another binding point. We solve that buy only selling our T-bar lower shocks in a bearing mount at no extra charge.

The 1" bearing upper and lower is far better when it comes to performance.



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