Chasing the best 60ft
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 436
Likes: 29
From: Michigan
Chasing the best 60ft Soon I'm going to dive into my suspension, current suspension is 100% stock and my goal is to cut the fastest 60ft possible. My car will never be road raced or to an autocross event so what I care most about it getting the best E.T out of it.
Subframes are a given and I'm probably going to go with UMI or BMR because there web looking subframes look like the strongest and are going to be more secure than just a long bar
Now I'm going to start with the rear first so let's hear it parts and manufacturers, also I DO NOT want to lower the car at all my 3in x-pipe already hits things from time to time. Somthing else I should mention to is this car will see street duty from spring to fall on nice sunny days.
Subframes are a given and I'm probably going to go with UMI or BMR because there web looking subframes look like the strongest and are going to be more secure than just a long bar
Now I'm going to start with the rear first so let's hear it parts and manufacturers, also I DO NOT want to lower the car at all my 3in x-pipe already hits things from time to time. Somthing else I should mention to is this car will see street duty from spring to fall on nice sunny days.
When purchasing sub frame connectors you want to make sure they are actually connecting to the front and rear subframe. If they attach anywhere else they are not serving the purpose they was designed for and nothing more than added weight. You also want to stay away from anything with rubber or poly joints if you want optimize your 60' times.
I would skip the multi point SFC to save weight and focus on getting a cage eventually. True SFC and a minimum of a 6-point will stiffen the vehicle the best with out added useless weight.
I would skip the multi point SFC to save weight and focus on getting a cage eventually. True SFC and a minimum of a 6-point will stiffen the vehicle the best with out added useless weight.
Thread Starter
TECH Regular
Joined: Feb 2017
Posts: 436
Likes: 29
From: Michigan
When purchasing sub frame connectors you want to make sure they are actually connecting to the front and rear subframe. If they attach anywhere else they are not serving the purpose they was designed for and nothing more than added weight. You also want to stay away from anything with rubber or poly joints if you want optimize your 60' times.
I would skip the multi point SFC to save weight and focus on getting a cage eventually. True SFC and a minimum of a 6-point will stiffen the vehicle the best with out added useless weight.
I would skip the multi point SFC to save weight and focus on getting a cage eventually. True SFC and a minimum of a 6-point will stiffen the vehicle the best with out added useless weight.
sorry bout that, running a 10bolt with 3.23 gears gonna run that till she goes then start looking about options not sure which way I want to go yet 😞 why do people run LCA relocation brackets if the aftermarket lower control arms are adjustable?
Adjustable LCAs allow rear end position adjustment, LCA relos allow to change the LCA angle.
For every action there is an equal & opposite reaction. Looking at the vehicle from the drivers side, as the tires rotate CCW (acceleration), the rear end housing wants to rotate CW. With the LCA in the lowest holes of the relo bracket, the angle of the lca is upward from the rear end to the body. That upward push by rear end housing rotation pushes the body upward and due to action/reaction pushes the rearend/rims/tires downward into the pavement for enhanced traction. Just like 'old-school' lift bars did.
But shocks ARE important, the OEM factory shocks don't react properly and allow 'wheel hop', the destroyer of rear end components.
The 4000 SS convertor with 3.23 gears is an excellent combination.
For every action there is an equal & opposite reaction. Looking at the vehicle from the drivers side, as the tires rotate CCW (acceleration), the rear end housing wants to rotate CW. With the LCA in the lowest holes of the relo bracket, the angle of the lca is upward from the rear end to the body. That upward push by rear end housing rotation pushes the body upward and due to action/reaction pushes the rearend/rims/tires downward into the pavement for enhanced traction. Just like 'old-school' lift bars did.
But shocks ARE important, the OEM factory shocks don't react properly and allow 'wheel hop', the destroyer of rear end components.
The 4000 SS convertor with 3.23 gears is an excellent combination.
