The hydraulic system doesn't know what the calipers are. It is simply a matter of volume of fluid that needs to move. And also front to rear, which most aren't considering either. I agree most don't push things hard enough to know this is a thing, but that means they also aren't really benefitting from these things either. I mean it is easy to make the stock brakes a lot better with pads that offer more friction and higher temp fluids and the like. The stock brakes aren't great for road course work, ultimately, but serviceable there too with appropriate parts. You just go through things more quickly. Lack of power isn't the problem.

I get the Brembos and other bigger stuff looks better, and I think that's a BIG part of the reason people do this. That's ok too, if what they are doing isn't compromised in a functional way. However they are. Between volume changes, front to rear ratio changed, having to run spacers, or cut on rotors, and so on... and the fact that the pads for Brembo calipers, on average for cost more than for a Wilwood that had none of those issues (because designed for the use), it makes little sense, IMHO, to do it that way if you want "big brakes". I get it, the initial cost is less, but things like brakes should be about more than money. If there is one thing that will scare you to death, it's not having brakes when you need them.

 

On a setup where someone has modified the drivetrain and brake system already where ABS is gone. wouldnt a master change and a proportioning valve with proper tuning address most of the bias and volume concerns? Not as simple as buy x part I know and would need to consider pedal ratio and travel. Spacers I agree with ...... I dont care for that option either thought its something im gonna have to adress if I keep going on this path, but cutting rotor? you referring to changing the hub bore diameter?

 

There's something equally important to fluid displacement that nobody is discussing: Rotor size. Larger diameter rotors (and to a lesser extent, more pad area) are going to create a larger moment about the wheel hub and slow the car at different rates.

There really needs to be more testing and research into this sort of thing. Unfortunately, lots of people operate under the assumption that more $$$ = more better, who then throw a bunch of money at their brakes and completely destroy the bias in a heartbeat. They don't race and will never test the limits of their brakes anyway.

In addition to this, there are so many differing setups across racers of 4th gens that it's hard to ascertain what actually works and behaves "neutral," if such a thing even exists? Or does that all depend on driving style and preference? There doesn't seem to be much of a consensus and differences between the LT1/LS1 systems further complicate things.

 

Hi All,
Im new to the forum. I have a 2013 Chevy Caprice PPV. I added Brembo calipers and rotors from a 2015 Camaro SS. The front bolted right up, the rears needed a spacer on the caliper bolts to align the caliper to the center of the rotor and a 3/16" wheel spacer so the wheel will clear the face of the caliper. My question is why is the top of the rotor (circumference) rubbing the bottom of the brake pad retainer hardware? Looks like the rotor needs to be shaved down about a 1/16"