impala_ws6

Hey guys, so my 01 ws6 is in real need of full suspension upgrade. She's still riding on factory suspension other than the tie-rods which I changed a couple years ago. I want to attempt to do most of the work myself, but I really don't know what's all needed. I did look up some old threads. She's mostly going to be driven in the summer with the occasional weekend road course/auto rx. I don't really plan on taking her to the strip. My budget is pretty open. Should I attempt to replace suspension stuff with Moog and other good quality brands? Or should I go all out with an overhaul like UMI? Do you guys have any write ups or vids on replacing suspension parts? Thanks again!

Furyataurus

Need lots of money and a lift preferably.
I'm doing the same thing on my 01 SS and have about $1500 saved up and still need $15K more. lol
I plan to BMR everything on mine, about $4500 for everything from BMR just in parts and another $5000 for Kooks full exhaust kit.
If you plan to do a K-member might as well do long tube headers while you're at it as it'll be much easier to do LTH with the K-member out of the way.

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

There are honestly tons of write ups on it. Are you planning to lower or keep it at stock height? Lowering would probably at a minimum lead you to an adjustable panhard bar, and ideally better shocks.

For a mainly street car, keep it simple. Before digging in, evaluate the state of what's there. Look for leaks at the boots of the steering rack, this is a pretty common failure point. Getting the steering rack rebuilt by turnone, is almost always better then any cheap racks you can get from anywhere - they all leak - all of them. No one ever has the money to do it right, but apparently has plenty of money to do the job over and over. TurnOne has a proven record with these racks, getting them rebuilt, leak free.

If you have the inline worthless stock steering cooler (heater/oil coolant strawberry mixer) it'd be best to replace it with a piece of straight hose before you end up with a more serious issue.

All the usual stuff, upper and lower ***** joints. See if you have play in the tie rods, inner and outer, wheel bearings and ball joints. Replace as necessary. Sealed joints have been more trouble free for me, where the greasable joints tend to develop rips in the boots- though greasable is what everyone sells.

You can buy fully assembled arms with bushings and joints pressed in, and this is usually cheaper but the quality of the joints maybe be an issue. If staying with stock rubber, what i'd recommend, you need to tighten the arms with the suspension at ride height, The front upper a-arm, is the exception here, i've always made an educated guess with the angle and tightened them on the bench.

Shocks, get str.t or bilsteins unless you're lowering - then maybe look to something better (koni yellows) that can handle higher spring rates. After that you might look at sway bars (35mm front/22 rear). Aftermarket arms are more serious, will tend to make the car handle better, ride harsher, and may require more maintenance (greasing/tightening).

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hy5SW3wTHWE&ab_channel=TurboShotIncredible
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9XXrnBWkcJY&ab_channel=LSXJosh

Y2K_Frenzy

I’d see what really needs replacing and then take a realistic look at how you’re going to use the car. Many times we add the “best” parts that money can buy and we end up with something we don’t really need and the ride quality kinda stinks. How “good” of a suspension does one need for a weekend cruiser that might occasionally rip through some cones in a parking lot at 40 mph? Maybe it’s my age but at this point I’m willing to sacrifice a few factions of a second and risk not being king of the parking lot track for a tad more comfort and long term durability. You won’t be all that much slower when you’re cruising the twisty backroads with a more “stockish” type suspension than you would if you had a max effort track setup up. But you’ll prob have less creeks and rattles with the softer closer to stock style. When people say driving to the limit, I guess the “limit” would be when you spin out of control in a turn. How often on the street will you be going around a corner right on the cusp of losing control?

Chris Paveglio

iTrader: (2)

I'm going to agree with Y2kFrenzy generally. If all you want is a refresh, DO NOT start spending money on UMI/BMR/etc arms or panhard or LCA's or anything that has poly bushing, roto joints, or full solid bearings. The ride will be way too harsh and rough, and honestly not any faster for the occasional autocross or track day. Stock arms and suspension parts, with rubber bushings, are just fine, just see what rubber bushings are old and ripped or needs replaced. Get good Moog ball joints and such. I have autocrossed my 2001 TA for some 17 years and I did pretty well on stock shocks, Koni yellows, and a 36mm front bar (and that's all, at the time). It was a nice ride when the shocks were full soft, and could be pretty rough but very performant on full firm. I then went to Strano lowering springs, the same Koni's, and a watts link in the back, with stock rear sway bar still. I've got many years of exp now, but I can still crush most other F-bodies at autocross (also headers helped add a few HP). No fancy brand name parts are really needed to make it handle a lot better - Koni's, 36mm bar, and springs are all you really need. Everything else is incremental and for a non-dedicated AX car you want to be nice to cruise in, keep it mostly stock or you'll start down the slipper slope of more expensive yet less enjoyable.
Other things to look at: Make sure the front sway bar mounting brackets are not cracked! Very common. Also be sure to lube your sway bars.
Agreed that replacing the stock power steering "heater" is a good idea.
If you are not AXing "hard core" I do NOT recommend getting a 22mm rear bar - unless you KNOW that you like a very loose rear end on the car and are prepared for it. As I said, I kept the 19mm b/c I don't want it to be loose on me when I'm out on county roads.
You can call Sam Strano if you want some advice and to buy some shocks/springs/bars. Please don't call him, talk for 1/2 hour then buy elsewhere, support him he's a sponsor and knows 4th gens in and out.

Y2K_Frenzy

What do you lube the sway bar with?

sjsingle1

iTrader: (1)

I know if you buy ES bushings they come with the little tube of white grease....I think that is the WORST stuff you can use !!!!........ I use any full synthetic grease ( amsoil myself ) and lots of it