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Adding more power and want to see if there are any suspension improvements I should consider.
Looking at boosted 750whp, at least. M6 car is street driven on midwest streets and especially the highways w occasional turns and obsticals, which is where my safety focus is.
For a street car I wouldn't bother. For a road race car, yes. The UMI joints are nice but they require some maintenance, and on the street I'd rather have rubber joints. They're quiet and require nothing be done. As far as the k-member are you adding a turbo? The vibration issue could be a few things, the most common are driveline angle, drive shaft balance, and wheel balance
For a street car I wouldn't bother. For a road race car, yes. The UMI joints are nice but they require some maintenance, and on the street I'd rather have rubber joints. They're quiet and require nothing be done. As far as the k-member are you adding a turbo? The vibration issue could be a few things, the most common are driveline angle, drive shaft balance, and wheel balance
thanks for the response. Rotojoint maintenance? Other than greasing is it tighten it the rotojoints w some tool periodically? If so, how often on a street car driven spiritedly?
edit: forgot to say that yes, at this time my plan is to add a turbo and keep a/c…hence the turbo k member.
alignment place said my pinion angle is spot on, tires/wheels balanced. I still need to check axels for runout and if they check out a new driveshaft is next. Driveshaft was replaced once already and made a huge difference. But still a little vibe at speeds the driveline place wouldn’t test.
thanks for the response. Rotojoint maintenance? Other than greasing is it tighten it the rotojoints w some tool periodically? If so, how often on a street car driven spiritedly?
edit: forgot to say that yes, at this time my plan is to add a turbo and keep a/c…hence the turbo k member.
alignment place said my pinion angle is spot on, tires/wheels balanced. I still need to check axels for runout and if they check out a new driveshaft is next. Driveshaft was replaced once already and made a huge difference. But still a little vibe at speeds the driveline place wouldn’t test.
I've never tightened the joints, but it's also a weekend toy that never sees bad weather. If you're driving this frequently, rubber is no maintenance. Every time you have to tighten the roto-joint you have to take it out of the clevis it's mounted to, which means realignment. Like I said, that's me - street driving frequently I want quiet and low maintenance.
F-bodies are notorious for vibrating especially when lowered. I'll admit up front, this is a bit out there: the other thing you could check, and it will be tough in a unibody car, is that the input and output shaft's don't have a compound angle. Thrust angle won't necessarily tell you this since that is squareness for alignment with the front wheels, so you don't crab down the road.
However if you have a compound angle (not parallel or inline if you imagine looking at the car from the top down) in the driveline that does not have complimentary angles at each end that can also induce vibration. I'd guess most shops don't check for this, but if you got enough divergence in the rear, and also have the tail-shaft out of line you could probably get this out a few degrees.
I've never tightened the joints, but it's also a weekend toy that never sees bad weather. If you're driving this frequently, rubber is no maintenance. Every time you have to tighten the roto-joint you have to take it out of the clevis it's mounted to, which means realignment. Like I said, that's me - street driving frequently I want quiet and low maintenance.
F-bodies are notorious for vibrating especially when lowered. I'll admit up front, this is a bit out there: the other thing you could check, and it will be tough in a unibody car, is that the input and output shaft's don't have a compound angle. Thrust angle won't necessarily tell you this since that is squareness for alignment with the front wheels, so you don't crab down the road.
However if you have a compound angle (not parallel or inline if you imagine looking at the car from the top down) in the driveline that does not have complimentary angles at each end that can also induce vibration. I'd guess most shops don't check for this, but if you got enough divergence in the rear, and also have the tail-shaft out of line you could probably get this out a few degrees.
thanks again. I understand about the roto joint maintenance. The old poly bushings in the rear where I have rotos now wore quickly and were pointed out each alignment session. I drive it pretty hard around corners and empty parking lots. I like having it realigned and safety checked annually by a speed shop for piece of mind.
im not going to pretend to understand everything said about the compound angle, especially w input and output shaft, but will be doing some research while the car is apart. Sounds like from a component perspective I’m pretty much all there. Should have someone take a closer look at the items mention but no ‘real’ need to add/upgrade parts. Thank you
04-24-2022, 08:27 PM
Suspension Check gen 4 fbody 
