BMR Turbo-K, BMR upper/lower control arms.....LOUD BANG when backing up......
#23
I’ll get pictures tomorrow. Has to be it.
I can imagine the high velocity these are impacting each end of the groove they sit in to make that big bang.
#24
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
I can't remember if the a arms came new vertical bolts or not. I reused the factory horizontal bolts.
I remember going to a local Fastenal, but I can't remember what bolts I bought or I even used them.
I am pretty sure I didn't buy the a arm bolt kit when I bought the k member/a arms.
Regardless, I think I need better washers.
---------------------
I just looked at their site, it looks like it does come with hardware for the rear vertical bolts when you get the rod ends.
HOLY **** those things are expensive. I'm telling myself I didn't pay that much a couple years ago.
I remember going to a local Fastenal, but I can't remember what bolts I bought or I even used them.
I am pretty sure I didn't buy the a arm bolt kit when I bought the k member/a arms.
Regardless, I think I need better washers.
---------------------
I just looked at their site, it looks like it does come with hardware for the rear vertical bolts when you get the rod ends.
HOLY **** those things are expensive. I'm telling myself I didn't pay that much a couple years ago.
#25
I can't remember if the a arms came new vertical bolts or not. I reused the factory horizontal bolts.
I remember going to a local Fastenal, but I can't remember what bolts I bought or I even used them.
I am pretty sure I didn't buy the a arm bolt kit when I bought the k member/a arms.
Regardless, I think I need better washers.
---------------------
I just looked at their site, it looks like it does come with hardware for the rear vertical bolts when you get the rod ends.
HOLY **** those things are expensive. I'm telling myself I didn't pay that much a couple years ago.
I remember going to a local Fastenal, but I can't remember what bolts I bought or I even used them.
I am pretty sure I didn't buy the a arm bolt kit when I bought the k member/a arms.
Regardless, I think I need better washers.
---------------------
I just looked at their site, it looks like it does come with hardware for the rear vertical bolts when you get the rod ends.
HOLY **** those things are expensive. I'm telling myself I didn't pay that much a couple years ago.
Both horizontal lower control arm bolts have a gap on one saie and the other is very tight to the mount. Hope I didn't bend the arm mounts.
#26
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (39)
Front upper and lower
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...255&superpro=0
Front upper only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...256&superpro=0
Front lower only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...257&superpro=0
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...255&superpro=0
Front upper only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...256&superpro=0
Front lower only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...257&superpro=0
#27
Front upper and lower
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...255&superpro=0
Front upper only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...256&superpro=0
Front lower only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...257&superpro=0
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...255&superpro=0
Front upper only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...256&superpro=0
Front lower only
https://www.bmrsuspension.com/?page=...257&superpro=0
#28
My guess if everything is tight then the alignment is way off. Tires maybe catching the plastic fender liner when you turn or something. Pulling it back and then letting it go causing a pop noise.
Yes you can drive without a front sway bar. Many drag cars run without one and many offroading jeeps and trucks do too.
Also, stop driving It, you are risking causing an accident.
Check every bolt that was touched. Get the front end in the air (and support with jackstands) and have someone turn the wheel while you watch. Try to isolate the noise.
Once it's fixed, get it aligned before you actually drive it. Too much caster or too little will cause the front wheels to hit the fenders when turning which can be dangerous.
Not to be rude but I'm assuming since you are asking if you can drive without a front sway bar you are probably green to the sport. This stuff isn't a joke and can be dangerous, get someone who knows what they are doing to help work on it. Lots of stuff can go wrong under there.
Yes you can drive without a front sway bar. Many drag cars run without one and many offroading jeeps and trucks do too.
Also, stop driving It, you are risking causing an accident.
Check every bolt that was touched. Get the front end in the air (and support with jackstands) and have someone turn the wheel while you watch. Try to isolate the noise.
Once it's fixed, get it aligned before you actually drive it. Too much caster or too little will cause the front wheels to hit the fenders when turning which can be dangerous.
Not to be rude but I'm assuming since you are asking if you can drive without a front sway bar you are probably green to the sport. This stuff isn't a joke and can be dangerous, get someone who knows what they are doing to help work on it. Lots of stuff can go wrong under there.
#29
My guess if everything is tight then the alignment is way off. Tires maybe catching the plastic fender liner when you turn or something. Pulling it back and then letting it go causing a pop noise.
Yes you can drive without a front sway bar. Many drag cars run without one and many offroading jeeps and trucks do too.
Also, stop driving It, you are risking causing an accident.
Check every bolt that was touched. Get the front end in the air (and support with jackstands) and have someone turn the wheel while you watch. Try to isolate the noise.
Once it's fixed, get it aligned before you actually drive it. Too much caster or too little will cause the front wheels to hit the fenders when turning which can be dangerous.
Not to be rude but I'm assuming since you are asking if you can drive without a front sway bar you are probably green to the sport. This stuff isn't a joke and can be dangerous, get someone who knows what they are doing to help work on it. Lots of stuff can go wrong under there.
Yes you can drive without a front sway bar. Many drag cars run without one and many offroading jeeps and trucks do too.
Also, stop driving It, you are risking causing an accident.
Check every bolt that was touched. Get the front end in the air (and support with jackstands) and have someone turn the wheel while you watch. Try to isolate the noise.
Once it's fixed, get it aligned before you actually drive it. Too much caster or too little will cause the front wheels to hit the fenders when turning which can be dangerous.
Not to be rude but I'm assuming since you are asking if you can drive without a front sway bar you are probably green to the sport. This stuff isn't a joke and can be dangerous, get someone who knows what they are doing to help work on it. Lots of stuff can go wrong under there.
Tires are definitely not hitting the fenders, checked everywhere for marks.
Not sure how much you read in this thread, but tonight I found where the noise is coming from, just like "LilJayV10" did and showed in his picture.....our lower control arm mounting bolts are moving in their mounting slots. No doubt.
I'll be driving it to the alignment shop on Friday as I know everything is in place, very tight and it drives perfect going straight. Last week my car was on jack stands and turning the wheels left and right showed no BANG sound.......it must be uder load on the tires to get the bang.
These guys are very good, they do race cars, street cars, exotics and foreign cars.
Juast had to find what it was that was moving.
#30
Only reason I drove it today (on my street at 15-20mph) was to see if a suspicion was true about it only moving while backing up. But now I know it also pops back to where it was while backing up and then when you go forward it pops back. Then from that point on going forward its all normal.
Tires are definitely not hitting the fenders, checked everywhere for marks.
Not sure how much you read in this thread, but tonight I found where the noise is coming from, just like "LilJayV10" did and showed in his picture.....our lower control arm mounting bolts are moving in their mounting slots. No doubt.
I'll be driving it to the alignment shop on Friday as I know everything is in place, very tight and it drives perfect going straight. Last week my car was on jack stands and turning the wheels left and right showed no BANG sound.......it must be uder load on the tires to get the bang.
These guys are very good, they do race cars, street cars, exotics and foreign cars.
Juast had to find what it was that was moving.
Tires are definitely not hitting the fenders, checked everywhere for marks.
Not sure how much you read in this thread, but tonight I found where the noise is coming from, just like "LilJayV10" did and showed in his picture.....our lower control arm mounting bolts are moving in their mounting slots. No doubt.
I'll be driving it to the alignment shop on Friday as I know everything is in place, very tight and it drives perfect going straight. Last week my car was on jack stands and turning the wheels left and right showed no BANG sound.......it must be uder load on the tires to get the bang.
These guys are very good, they do race cars, street cars, exotics and foreign cars.
Juast had to find what it was that was moving.
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Y2K_Frenzy (06-27-2024)
#31
Here’s the pics of my witness marks. Notice the gap on one side of the horizontal bolt mount red bushings. I’m wondering if that has been bent a little bit. Both sides have that gap because both sides vertical bolts have been slipping back and forth in their mounting slots.
Looking at a few of these pictures it appears as if the bolts are clearly bending. They’re not, when under the car they look perfectly straight. I think that’s just what the camera makes them look like.
Looking at a few of these pictures it appears as if the bolts are clearly bending. They’re not, when under the car they look perfectly straight. I think that’s just what the camera makes them look like.
#32
Problem solved.
The vertical and horizontal lower control arm bolts were loose. They were tight, but not enough to keep it from slamming back and forth in their respective slots.
Those bolts in the photos are not bent, it just came out that way in the photos.
Alignment was also off. Car drives like new.
Only question I have, and I’ll email BMR about it, does this look right? Bushings and washer…….left and right side…?
The vertical and horizontal lower control arm bolts were loose. They were tight, but not enough to keep it from slamming back and forth in their respective slots.
Those bolts in the photos are not bent, it just came out that way in the photos.
Alignment was also off. Car drives like new.
Only question I have, and I’ll email BMR about it, does this look right? Bushings and washer…….left and right side…?
#33
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Problem solved.
The vertical and horizontal lower control arm bolts were loose. They were tight, but not enough to keep it from slamming back and forth in their respective slots.
Those bolts in the photos are not bent, it just came out that way in the photos.
Alignment was also off. Car drives like new.
Only question I have, and I’ll email BMR about it, does this look right? Bushings and washer…….left and right side…?
The vertical and horizontal lower control arm bolts were loose. They were tight, but not enough to keep it from slamming back and forth in their respective slots.
Those bolts in the photos are not bent, it just came out that way in the photos.
Alignment was also off. Car drives like new.
Only question I have, and I’ll email BMR about it, does this look right? Bushings and washer…….left and right side…?
#34