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Brakes boiling

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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 07:18 AM
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Default Brakes boiling

I have been having some trouble at my last few autocrosses with my brakes.

They have been overheating to point of vapor lock at times. I have flushed the lines with valvoline synpower fluid which from what I hear is not the best but is up there. My pads are oe replacement, ceramix brand I beleive, I am getting some hawk's soon, but pads alone shouldn't be causing this much heat should they?


Front rotor might be a little bit warped, but nothing bad, and I have had worse without issue.

I am on race tires, so braking is much more aggressive before lockup.

ABS is not kicking in, I have gotten pretty good at braking to the limit without abs hitting

When I flushed the fluid, I filled the resevoir to the fill line, even through pads a rotors are used, could it just be too much fluid?

Rotors are brembo oe replacements.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 07:57 AM
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The pedal is hitting the floor? It could be the ABS. I've had issues with braking hard enough to cause the ABS solenoid to cycle just enough to drop the pedal. I suspect that this is your issue as well. I think this because I don't know of an autocross course that is long enough to build that kind of heat. Many guys run multiple laps on road courses with no problems, I can't imagine that you're getting that hot in a single autocross pass.

My thoughts.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 08:51 AM
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Its not hitting the floor, its very hard to push down near the end of a course, I can still brake, just not without a ton of force
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 10:44 AM
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Ok. When you boil fluid, it becomes a vapor. Vapor is easily compressed. This will cause the pedal to hit the floor (I've done this on more than one occasion, but not autocrossing). If the pedal is not hitting the floor, it is not likley that you are boiling fluid. If the pedal gets firm, it is probably due to a lack of vacuum assist due to being at wide open throttle (or nearly so) followed by hard braking. This will deplete your vacuum and cause the vehicle to lose vacume assist. This will give you the firm pedal at the end of a run.

My solution would be to use a more aggressive brake pad. That will require less pedal effort and less assist for the whole run and will work better without assist at the end.

Just my thoughts.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 10:52 AM
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Awsome explanation! I was going to pick up some hawk hps pads anyway, so I will try that. Thanks.
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Old Aug 5, 2004 | 10:10 PM
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A vaccum reservoir might help also.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 12:02 AM
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Rushman from your explanation , it sounds like it could also be pad fade on the OE pads. Like TB Said , pad swapp would clear that up .
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 06:47 AM
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I replaced the pads, wanted hawk hps, but got ebc green's which are a ton better than the ones I had on them. I autocrossed on them this weekend, no fade at all, however this was a course that required infrequent but HEAVY braking. 2 events from now is at a cart track, which is a good test, and is where the problem started showing up the first time.

Just an FYI, and not that anyone here would do this, do not buy Ceramix brand pads. The pad material was separating from the back plate on one of my old front pads.

Thanks for your help guys.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 09:48 AM
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Rushman , Be wary of EBC Greens , This company makes some superb gokart and Motorcycle pads, but for our heavy cars , they don't cut it. You might of felt a weight difference between the OE and the greens , being the greens should be lighter. That green pad is not all it is cut out to be.
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Old Aug 9, 2004 | 10:16 AM
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There was a noticible decrease in the ammount I had to push to slow the car.

I doubt they are the best pads for our cars, but they are certainly better than stock or cheap oe replacements.
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