TooSlow02

Well....let's just say that when you go to a dealership and speak to techs, it all depends on which tech you are dealing with as to what information you receive. Some know their product, and some....don't. I have worked with a few techs that aren't quite as knowledgeable as they think they are, or that they should be. It depends on how much training they have. In cases where the manufacturer is stingy with information, some guys just take a guess. It's not their fault, they just don't have all the info they need.

Now, the solenoids don't actually have to open "against" brake system operating pressure, like fuel injectors. So they can open and close rapidly without being influenced by pressure. BTW, brake pressures can be up to a couple THOUSAND pounds . The systems are generally capable of operating in the range of 0-140 bar of pressure (around 2000 psi).

Most of my information comes from Bosch through BMW, my employer (no "yuppie" snickers, please. I work on them, I don't buy them. Too slow and expensive. Big Money Waste, IMO ).The rest comes directly from Bosch, the Society of Automotive Engineers (SAE), and school. I'm not an engineer, but I might be if I ever get around to finishing my degree (School is WAY to expensive these days). I don't know if I can handle the cubicle life, though. I'm not sure how I might react to it after a while.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I'm still having a hard time believing these cars can actually apply their own brakes. Can you think of a way to make it do that? Maybe I could set up a video camera to capture it happening. Or some other way to convince me?

Also, do you have any pictures or diagrams of the valving inside the big aluminum block. I can't quite picture it in my head.

Midnight F-117A

JasonWW you should see how small an hydraulic pump for engine driven pump on aircrafts, they make alot of pressure anywhere from 1,500 to 5,000 psi.

To put it in basic terms, the ABS module "acts" like it has a accumulator where it stores pressure til it's needed.

Try this, get in the car and start it up, just a few seconds of starting up or rolling for the first time per engine start, step lightly on the brake pedal like your slowing down to make a turn out of your driveway, you feel a buzz for a second thru the brake pedal which is the system getting ready. Sam strano said this is perfectly normal.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The motor could be activating just as a check done by the computer to see if it is working. It doesn't prove anything to me. I want to see it actually apply pressure to a caliper without me pushing on the pedal. If it can do that under real world conditions, then I'll be convinced.

Midnight F-117A

why don't you go to a parking lot on a rainy day, disconenct the throttle kickback motor, get in the car and do a quick acceleration on wet surfaces and feel the rear brakes go "ziittt zittt zittt"

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Talking about this brings up another question. Most of the people who turn it off the TCS do so because it is a clumsy system that cuts too much power for too long before letting you get back on the throttle. It really kills your acceleration times.

Is there any way to control it? Maybe reprogram it to let you get back on the power sooner? If we could get the factory TCS to operate is a more acceptable manner, it might be worth it to keep it turned on.

I wonder if LS1edit has any control over it?

TooSlow02

By setting a system fault, I mean causing a fault code to be stored in the system. It wouldn't necessarily cause a warning light. But, if there's ever a problem with it, then this fault may be misleading during diagnosis. Now, I assume you refer to the TCS BAT mini fuse, which supplies KL30 to the ASM accelerator and servo module. Pulling this fuse causes the ASR/TCS to be disabled, but it also makes the PCM think that the TCS is failing or has failed, in which case DTC C0240 will be stored. This activates the Trac Off light. If the fuse is re-installed the light will go out and normal operation will resume. But, it may also cause DTC C0901, C0266, C0238, and C0237 to be stored, which will turn on the warning indicator and won't turn it off until they are cleared.

Midnight F-117A

Nope, it's a seperate system. A TECH2 scan tool may since it allows the user to manually open the soliends inside to bleed the ABS module.

TooSlow02

The best way to do it is to put the car on a lift, rev the engine to about 3000, put the trans in 2nd and drop the clutch. The wheelspin should be excessive enough to activate brake intervention.

TooSlow02

Yes, the BPMV has accumulators in the pressure circuits to do just that.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Once you unplug the TCS motor, the whole TCS system turns off. So that won't work.

TooSlow02

It is pretty clumsy. On cars with an electronic throttle control (no cable) it is much more seamless. LS1 Edit can't do anything, as far as I know nothing can. But that's not to say that it can't be done.

Midnight F-117A

ah ****.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I've done it for a year and a half with no warning light or any of those codes being stored. So I think it is fine to do. The SLP module is even better, but it costs a lot. I may get one eventually.

TooSlow02

It won't hurt anything. I just think it's easier to use the button to shut it off. But, I don't always want it off, either.

TooSlow02

I'll see if I can find a hydraulic circuit diagram.

Midnight F-117A

Already have one since it came out.

The uncle with a '02 firebird bitched all day long why GM put the TCS on by default.
I told him it's for lawsuit protection on GM's part and to STFU and buy a SLP TCS module.
Then he went off bitching about the price being $70 when it came in

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

That's were you and I differ. I find it very inconvenient to push the button every time I start the engine. And when I forget and try to slide the car it pisses me off to no end. I hate it, but sometimes I will put the fuse back in if my tires are wore down and it's raining, just to play it safe. Once I get new tires, out the fuse comes. $70 is a lot. I thought they were about $50 the last time I checked over a year ago.

I'll try and get my car on a lift to check out the braking. So you say to start the wheels turning in second gear?

TooSlow02

You have to get the rear wheels turning pretty fast so you can actually see the wheels being braked. Just have someone stand next to the rear wheels (or you do it and have someone else drop the hammer). You'll see the rear wheels stop and spin, stop then spin, over and over. That's the brakes pulsing. Just backing off the throttle can't do that.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Cool, I'll try it and report back.