replacing front struts
replacing front struts from 1-10, how hard to replace front struts on a 4th gen?? do you really have to separate the lower ball joint??
i'm not scared to work on cars, i've replaced rear axles on the side of the road in the pouring rain, and used aluminum foil to make a rochester carb. get me back home. i just work too many hours to spend 6 hours playing with struts!!
(know what's good fun?? replacing starter wires that touch your headers in a restaurant parking lot!!, now that's fun!!)
thanks!!
i'm not scared to work on cars, i've replaced rear axles on the side of the road in the pouring rain, and used aluminum foil to make a rochester carb. get me back home. i just work too many hours to spend 6 hours playing with struts!!
(know what's good fun?? replacing starter wires that touch your headers in a restaurant parking lot!!, now that's fun!!)
thanks!!
If a 10 is pulling the engine and a 1 is washing the car, I would rate the front struts about a 4, PROVIDED you have the right tools. I used this guide:
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
As for the ball joint, I separated the upper ball joint (where the upper A-arm connects with the spindle) using a two jaw puller. Popped right out. After that, the only thing that took any time was compressing the springs enough to get tension off the boot on the top of the shock. It's easier with two people, so one person can support the lower A-arm while the other starts the strut tower bolts (a jack actually supports it, but getting it lined up just right is hard to do alone). Oh, and do yourself a favor and put a little WD-40 or grease between the spring collar and the mount perch. If you don't, getting the tabs where the shock mounts to the lower control arm lined up is a pain. In the end, it's really just a series of loosening and tightening bolts.
-Mike
http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=6
As for the ball joint, I separated the upper ball joint (where the upper A-arm connects with the spindle) using a two jaw puller. Popped right out. After that, the only thing that took any time was compressing the springs enough to get tension off the boot on the top of the shock. It's easier with two people, so one person can support the lower A-arm while the other starts the strut tower bolts (a jack actually supports it, but getting it lined up just right is hard to do alone). Oh, and do yourself a favor and put a little WD-40 or grease between the spring collar and the mount perch. If you don't, getting the tabs where the shock mounts to the lower control arm lined up is a pain. In the end, it's really just a series of loosening and tightening bolts.
-Mike
Last edited by chupr0kabra; Jan 16, 2005 at 10:11 PM.
