nitenshinarmor

I'm in the process of changing out my rear rotors and cannot get the passenger side to budge! There is not a retaining clip like the front rotors, so nothing to get in the way there. I have soaked it around the rotor with penetrating oil to help loosen any rust and have smacked the shitz out it with a 3 pound sledge.....YES!! a 3 pound sledge. The dang gone thing won't budge. Maybe a log chain and my pickup truck if nothing else works...no seriously...what am I doing wrong? Why won't this stupid rotor come off?

felton316

Did you make sure the parking brake was not on?

nitenshinarmor

Parking brake is off. I did not disconnect it from the rear. It doesn't look like the parking brake has anything to do with the rotor. However, I have been wrong many of times though. Do I need to remove the e-brake connection in the rear?

TripleBlackRamAirT/A

iTrader: (3)

no, but make sure all tension is off of it. The parking brake has everything to do with the rotor not coming off. Try jiggling the arm that the brake cable attaches to while pulling on the rotor.

nitenshinarmor

Already tried that. Here are some pics if that helps any.

Monello

iTrader: (1)

This tool is your friend =)

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

i had the rear driver side rotor stuck on there when I did my brake change. Mine came off with some very agressive hits with a rubber mallet though.
Are you able to spin it? If so, that would rule out it being a parking brake problem.

TripleBlackRamAirT/A

iTrader: (3)

If you've ever driven with the parking brake on, or if it was adjusted overly tight it could have worn a groove into the drum of the rotor and that is what is probably holding it on. The rotor would still spin fine, it just wouldn't come off.

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

Sometimes they just get rusted into place on the hub. If you are certain the parking brake isn't holding it in place, then you just need to beat the **** out of it with the sledge hammer...try alternating sides and don't hold back...who cares if you trash the rotor?

Heat usually helps break the rust loose...you could try taking a heat gun or blow torch to it for a few minutes and then beating on it again.

nitenshinarmor

OK...the wife tells me it's time to clean on the house...bull. Anyways, when I get done with that crap....going to get a dead blow hammer, gear puller and rubber mallet. I will first try heating the thing up with the torch then hitting it with the dead blow. If that fails..hmmmm.....I'll have to pretend it's my boss....lol. Anyways, the rotor will not turn freely. It is definetly rusted to the spindle. I don't think it's the e-brake...the mechanism seems to be working fine...however, I did disconnect the cable from it in case slight tension would have been the problem. Will give you feed back on my progress after all the b.s. cleaning I have to do first....lol.....everyone should get married. Oh what fun it is.

FBDYLVR

iTrader: (14)

Autozone = free tool rental, get the biggest 3 jaw puller they have ($45 deposit, returned to you when you're done) and get that rotor off.

nitenshinarmor

GOT'R OFF.!!! About 5 minutes with a MAPP gas torch and about 5 blows with a dead blow hammer and the sucka came off. WOOT WOOT!!! Man, that **** sure did get hot!!! So, if ya know anyone that is in the market for some used rotors, tell'm I got a deal of a life time. Buy 3 used rotor really cheap and get one the **** free....shipping extra. Anyways, I want to thank everyone here for thier help. Thank you.

01_SuperSlow

iTrader: (7)

Cool

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

Good job!

thenewb

iTrader: (2)

make sure you didn't weakin your wheel studs..... ARP's are cheap insurance and don't take alot to put in. if you have a 3 channel, you just pull the c-clips out of the pumpkin and pull the axles..... if you have a 4 channel you just take the rotor off and find the hole in back. you can wiggle them in and out of that hole