purpose of all this stuff
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From: Montgomery, IL
purpose of all this stuff im relativaly new to the modifing world so i have a bunch of questions that i couldnt really find the answer to so here they are
what is chrome moly and why is it better?
what are "rod ends" and why are they "race only"?
why is everything adjustable, why is stock lenght not good enought?
tubular or boxed which is better?
i know this stuff is supossed to be better than stock but how, ive read they dont flex and absorb the power as much as stock parts, but what does that translate into, better 60' times?, better ET times?, better traction?
alot of things are being made with chrome moly, is it really neccesary or is it over kill on some parts?
thanks for the responses guys
what is chrome moly and why is it better?
what are "rod ends" and why are they "race only"?
why is everything adjustable, why is stock lenght not good enought?
tubular or boxed which is better?
i know this stuff is supossed to be better than stock but how, ive read they dont flex and absorb the power as much as stock parts, but what does that translate into, better 60' times?, better ET times?, better traction?
alot of things are being made with chrome moly, is it really neccesary or is it over kill on some parts?
thanks for the responses guys
While I haven't done alot to my car, here's my understanding of it.
Chrome moly is high chrome steel. Chrome, being among the hardest metals means you have a stronger part. This is not neccessary for most applications, but more of a bragging rights issue.
Adjustability allows you to compensate for changes due to other mods such as lowering. It also allows you to compensate for your driving environment/style.
Rod ends are pretty much as solid a connection as you can get, and therefore you'll feel everything. They can create a rough ride, though this can correspond to better performance.
Tubular will not resist torsion as much as boxed, but create a lower profile. This may or may not correspond to greater performance either way.
Chrome moly is high chrome steel. Chrome, being among the hardest metals means you have a stronger part. This is not neccessary for most applications, but more of a bragging rights issue.
Adjustability allows you to compensate for changes due to other mods such as lowering. It also allows you to compensate for your driving environment/style.
Rod ends are pretty much as solid a connection as you can get, and therefore you'll feel everything. They can create a rough ride, though this can correspond to better performance.
Tubular will not resist torsion as much as boxed, but create a lower profile. This may or may not correspond to greater performance either way.
Originally Posted by LiquidFire350
why is everything adjustable, why is stock lenght not good enought?
If you decide on a rod end component, they attach by threading into the rod. While you CAN adjust the length, the stock length is typically the way to go ... in most cases.
The PHB being an exception ... when you lower the car, you cause the ride height to decrease, while the unsprung portion remains unchanged. Consequently, some "adjustment" in the length of the PHB is necessary to obtain absolute centering of the diff.
Another would be using rod ends on the front suspension in order to gain mountains of negative camber. Not typically found on street cars, though.
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From: Montgomery, IL
Originally Posted by mitchntx
"Adjustable" is over used and marketing hype in many cases.
If you decide on a rod end component, they attach by threading into the rod. While you CAN adjust the length, the stock length is typically the way to go ... in most cases.
The PHB being an exception ... when you lower the car, you cause the ride height to decrease, while the unsprung portion remains unchanged. Consequently, some "adjustment" in the length of the PHB is necessary to obtain absolute centering of the diff.
Another would be using rod ends on the front suspension in order to gain mountains of negative camber. Not typically found on street cars, though.
If you decide on a rod end component, they attach by threading into the rod. While you CAN adjust the length, the stock length is typically the way to go ... in most cases.
The PHB being an exception ... when you lower the car, you cause the ride height to decrease, while the unsprung portion remains unchanged. Consequently, some "adjustment" in the length of the PHB is necessary to obtain absolute centering of the diff.
Another would be using rod ends on the front suspension in order to gain mountains of negative camber. Not typically found on street cars, though.
would it be a waste of money to go with adjustable torque arms and LCAs, im mostly looking into the rear componets right now and i dont plan on lowering the rear, i want to lower the front and keep the rear where its at or maybe slightly lower
