More Caster or Toe in?
Thread Starter
TECH Apprentice
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 382
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From: Tyler, Texas
More Caster or Toe in? I have these alignment specs right now:
Camber left -0.1, right -0.2
Caster left 4.5 right 4.7
Toe Left 0 Right 0
I don't like the need for constant correction during high speed driving and I want more high speed stabiliy.
I will be setting Camber to 0 for the new alignment. Should I increase caster or add some toe in?
Would increasing caster to 5 or 6 improve high speed stability?
Or should I leave caster at 4.5 and just add 1/32 toe in?
Which would cause less of a loss in steering feel?
Thanks,
Lane
Camber left -0.1, right -0.2
Caster left 4.5 right 4.7
Toe Left 0 Right 0
I don't like the need for constant correction during high speed driving and I want more high speed stabiliy.
I will be setting Camber to 0 for the new alignment. Should I increase caster or add some toe in?
Would increasing caster to 5 or 6 improve high speed stability?
Or should I leave caster at 4.5 and just add 1/32 toe in?
Which would cause less of a loss in steering feel?
Thanks,
Lane
I currently have these specs.
Camber
-0.3 Left/Right
Caster
+4.1 Left/Right
Toe
0.00 Left/Right
I like this setup myself. My last specs were:
Camber
+0.5 Left/Right
Caster
+5.1 Left/Right
Toe
0.00 Left/Right
These specs. caused me to have to concentrate (not fight) alot when driving and at high speeds felt unstable.
The new specs. took care of that and I think I am going to go with more negative camber. I am going to try -0.7 Left/Right while keeping the same settings else where.
Camber
-0.3 Left/Right
Caster
+4.1 Left/Right
Toe
0.00 Left/Right
I like this setup myself. My last specs were:
Camber
+0.5 Left/Right
Caster
+5.1 Left/Right
Toe
0.00 Left/Right
These specs. caused me to have to concentrate (not fight) alot when driving and at high speeds felt unstable.
The new specs. took care of that and I think I am going to go with more negative camber. I am going to try -0.7 Left/Right while keeping the same settings else where.
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 115
Likes: 0
From: Corpus Christi Texas
The stock setup is limited. Consider some new lower control arms from LG. These have aluminum bushings that really locate the front end and you can get more camber to help in the corners. Noise and vibration increase only slightly, anyway, a lot less than I expected.
If you stay with the stock A-arms (on this point I feel like I should type in all caps but won't) be sure to have the caster set exactly the same on both sides. The reason: when you turn the wheel even a little to correct tramlining (movement following pavement irregularities) you get kingpin rise on the larger caster side that makes the car feel unstable. (Yes I know we don't have kingpins anymore but the dynamics are the same and look at the featherblocking on your high-side tires to see the result of skittering across-pavement on your front tires.) More caster always helps to handle tramlining, but in all cases it helps the most to have caster set exactly the same on both sides.
If you stay with the stock A-arms (on this point I feel like I should type in all caps but won't) be sure to have the caster set exactly the same on both sides. The reason: when you turn the wheel even a little to correct tramlining (movement following pavement irregularities) you get kingpin rise on the larger caster side that makes the car feel unstable. (Yes I know we don't have kingpins anymore but the dynamics are the same and look at the featherblocking on your high-side tires to see the result of skittering across-pavement on your front tires.) More caster always helps to handle tramlining, but in all cases it helps the most to have caster set exactly the same on both sides.
