View Poll Results: Which would be best?
Option 1
1
20.00%
Option 2
0
0%
Option 3
3
60.00%
Other (please specify)
1
20.00%
Voters: 5. You may not vote on this poll
Decisions, decisions...
Thread Starter
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,371
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From: Nashville, TN
Decisions, decisions... The car has to come up. I've got three options as I see it...
1. Cut 1/2 to 2/3 of a coil off the front, remove rear isolator, SLP/Bilstein shocks
2. Cut 1/2 to 2/3 of a coil off the front, remove rear isolator, Koni SAs in the front on the upper perch, stock rear shocks for now (3rd Gen Bilsteins later)
3. Leave stock springs untouched, rear isolator removed, Koni SAs on the lower perch, stock rear shocks for now (3rd Gen Bilsteins later)
I'm thinking #2 might be my best option. It leaves me room to upgrade. I could get the Bilstein rear shocks later. Then I could get the Ground Control kit for up front sometime after that, and get some specific springs at that point in time also. The reason I'm thinking #3 might not be the best idea is because with the Koni SAs on their lower perch, thats 1" less travel the shock has to dampen the car with. I dont know if thats an issue or not but compared to the full travel on a slightly cut spring, it seems like the cut spring on the upper perch would be the better option to allow more shock travel. I'm going for the best mix of ride quality and handling. I'd like a ride height in the neighborhood of 26 3/4" or 27" in the front and 27 1/4" or 27 1/2" in the rear. No lower than 26 3/4" in the front and no lower than 27 1/4" in the rear. What will help me in accomplishing what I'm shooting for.
1. Cut 1/2 to 2/3 of a coil off the front, remove rear isolator, SLP/Bilstein shocks
2. Cut 1/2 to 2/3 of a coil off the front, remove rear isolator, Koni SAs in the front on the upper perch, stock rear shocks for now (3rd Gen Bilsteins later)
3. Leave stock springs untouched, rear isolator removed, Koni SAs on the lower perch, stock rear shocks for now (3rd Gen Bilsteins later)
I'm thinking #2 might be my best option. It leaves me room to upgrade. I could get the Bilstein rear shocks later. Then I could get the Ground Control kit for up front sometime after that, and get some specific springs at that point in time also. The reason I'm thinking #3 might not be the best idea is because with the Koni SAs on their lower perch, thats 1" less travel the shock has to dampen the car with. I dont know if thats an issue or not but compared to the full travel on a slightly cut spring, it seems like the cut spring on the upper perch would be the better option to allow more shock travel. I'm going for the best mix of ride quality and handling. I'd like a ride height in the neighborhood of 26 3/4" or 27" in the front and 27 1/4" or 27 1/2" in the rear. No lower than 26 3/4" in the front and no lower than 27 1/4" in the rear. What will help me in accomplishing what I'm shooting for.
Thread Starter
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,371
Likes: 0
From: Nashville, TN
Bah! I've had so many suspensions under this cars it's ridiculous. I finally decided to make a solid investment in it and get some high quality stuff right from the get-go. A full set of Koni SAs are on their way to me. 
Stock springs and these shocks should get me where I want to be, and after talking with Sam, if I need a little less roll and a little more response, I'll just upgrade to a 35mm front bar. Thanks for all the help Sam. Some of the best customer service I've ever ran in to.
Stock springs and these shocks should get me where I want to be, and after talking with Sam, if I need a little less roll and a little more response, I'll just upgrade to a 35mm front bar. Thanks for all the help Sam. Some of the best customer service I've ever ran in to.
Originally Posted by josh99ta
The car has to come up.
Originally Posted by josh99ta
The reason I'm thinking #3 might not be the best idea is because with the Koni SAs on their lower perch, thats 1" less travel the shock has to dampen the car with. I dont know if thats an issue or not but compared to the full travel on a slightly cut spring, it seems like the cut spring on the upper perch would be the better option to allow more shock travel.
So I hope that point is understood.
All 3 choices involve new front shocks and that is a good thing. It's so much work you want to change both front springs and shocks at the same time.
There's not much of a difference in your 3 choices. The Koni SA up front is my favorite. You don't have to cut the spring unless you want to. The rate increase would be so small as to not be noticable. The big benefit is being able to adjust the front rebound. You can make the front mushy soft, rock hard or find a middle ground for the best ride and handling. The ride gets so much better you will find yourself wanting stiffer springs.
You can get by on stock rear shocks for a while. Once you change them out you will notice the rear will be buttery smooth and more controlled. You will probably be feeling the urge to increase their rate as well.
You posted right before me! Oh well.
I'd get a big front bar. I have a solid 35mm and wish I had a little more. It can be added later for around $140 shipped. PM me if you want details.
I'd get a big front bar. I have a solid 35mm and wish I had a little more. It can be added later for around $140 shipped. PM me if you want details.
Thread Starter
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 2,371
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From: Nashville, TN
I gotcha on the shortened shock travel. I currently have a Pro Kit on the car with off-the-shelf Bilstein HDs, and it's too low with my long tubes and true duals, so it needs to come up. The Pro Kit dropped me almost 2" in the front (25 3/4" ride height) and an inch and a half in the rear. I'd like the car to come up around an inch or more all around. Sam said I should be looking at 3/4" down from factory in the front, 1/2" down in the rear, which would be perfect IMO.
Jason, I know you've played with increasing the stock springs rates. Any suggestions on how to increase the front and rear spring rates enough to make a difference but still keep the ride quality at a nice, controlled, non-harsh level?
Jason, I know you've played with increasing the stock springs rates. Any suggestions on how to increase the front and rear spring rates enough to make a difference but still keep the ride quality at a nice, controlled, non-harsh level?
I've only worked with the rear, so far, but the front are linear 400lb so they shouldn't be a problem.
I'm at 26" front ride height with 550lb springs and it is a bit too low, but servicable. So I'd say you are too low and soft at the moment. The bumpstops must be adding to the harness as well.
Man, it sure is handy to have a set of Prokit front springs right next to me by the computer.
I measure a 1" coil gap fully extended. I am going to guess that under the load of tightening the shock bolt the gap will be about 3/4"-7/8". That's pretty small, too much so for a rubber spacer. You'll need to get a small metal wedge type spacer. This style:
Spacer link
It will have to go into the spring at the bottom and you will need to use a 1/2" rachet to crank them in there. Put 2 on each side 180* apart. The only thing that may be a problem is the dust boot. It may need to be shortened or removed all together.
Try 2 on each side and see what kind of ride height you get. The spring rate should go up to 450lb/inch. It's still soft, but combined with the extra ride height and travel you should like it a lot more. And like I tell everyone about these spacers, they only cost 5 bucks and if you don't like them, they are easy to take out. No big deal.
I'm at 26" front ride height with 550lb springs and it is a bit too low, but servicable. So I'd say you are too low and soft at the moment. The bumpstops must be adding to the harness as well.
Man, it sure is handy to have a set of Prokit front springs right next to me by the computer.
I measure a 1" coil gap fully extended. I am going to guess that under the load of tightening the shock bolt the gap will be about 3/4"-7/8". That's pretty small, too much so for a rubber spacer. You'll need to get a small metal wedge type spacer. This style:
Spacer link
It will have to go into the spring at the bottom and you will need to use a 1/2" rachet to crank them in there. Put 2 on each side 180* apart. The only thing that may be a problem is the dust boot. It may need to be shortened or removed all together.
Try 2 on each side and see what kind of ride height you get. The spring rate should go up to 450lb/inch. It's still soft, but combined with the extra ride height and travel you should like it a lot more. And like I tell everyone about these spacers, they only cost 5 bucks and if you don't like them, they are easy to take out. No big deal.
Thread Starter
Sold The Fun Stuff :(
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Nashville, TN
Jason, I'll be using the stock front springs, not the Pro Kit. What type of spacers do you recommend for the stock springs, and how many to get a halfway decent spring rate (I know stock they are 290ish I believe, I'd like to get a reasonable increase, something like 325+). Also, on the rear, keeping the springs uncut (stock springs in the rear too), where and how many spacers would you add to raise the spring rate a bit back there also?
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I was suggesting you try adding the spacers to your current front springs as there is almost no work involved. 450lb is a reasonable rate, try it first before you tear down the suspension. You might think the rate is too high because your ride is rough, I think most of your roughness is due to the low ride height and you using the bumpstops so much. Raising your current springs should smooth out the ride even though you will be increasing the rate a little.
The stock springs are about 300lb. You would have to deaden one whole coil to get the rate up to 325lb. The coil gap should be a tad bigger, but you might still have to use a 1/2" rachet to turn them into the spring.
On the rear, 150-170 is pretty reasonable with good shocks. I run 170 because of the better handling and it helps to prevent getting on the bumpstops as much. The stock rear springs are about 115lb per inch. Each coil is about 20lbs. For every coil you deaden, the rate goes up 20lbs. For every coil you cut off, the rate goes up 20lbs. I used a combination of cutting and spacers to get mine just right. 170lb and 26 1/4" ride height.
It's a little tricky to get it just right. You may want to put the factory rear springs in without the rubber isolator and see where your ride height is. Whether it needs to come up, down or is just right will determine how you increase the rate.
The stock springs are about 300lb. You would have to deaden one whole coil to get the rate up to 325lb. The coil gap should be a tad bigger, but you might still have to use a 1/2" rachet to turn them into the spring.
On the rear, 150-170 is pretty reasonable with good shocks. I run 170 because of the better handling and it helps to prevent getting on the bumpstops as much. The stock rear springs are about 115lb per inch. Each coil is about 20lbs. For every coil you deaden, the rate goes up 20lbs. For every coil you cut off, the rate goes up 20lbs. I used a combination of cutting and spacers to get mine just right. 170lb and 26 1/4" ride height.
It's a little tricky to get it just right. You may want to put the factory rear springs in without the rubber isolator and see where your ride height is. Whether it needs to come up, down or is just right will determine how you increase the rate.
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Originally Posted by josh99ta
Bah! I've had so many suspensions under this cars it's ridiculous. I finally decided to make a solid investment in it and get some high quality stuff right from the get-go. A full set of Koni SAs are on their way to me.