Which Sway Bar???
There is also a hollow 22mm rear as well as a solid one. Addco makes a solid one and we carry them, but I have my own (also made by Addco, but I'm the exclusive seller since I designed them) that's hollow and about half the weight.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Originally Posted by CNTLSE 1
So what would be the handling difference between a 22mm hollow rear and a 25mm solid rear besides the weight diference?
Yep. When taking corners, you need some sway, just not as much as the stock suspension would yield in most cases. When the rear end has less body sway, the likely event of a loose rear end becomes very likely.
I find the stock bar a little too flimsy for what I eventually want to do, so I intend to increase its diameter, just not to the point where my rear will easily break loose in an acute turn.
I find the stock bar a little too flimsy for what I eventually want to do, so I intend to increase its diameter, just not to the point where my rear will easily break loose in an acute turn.
Pretty much. Try to stick with what Sam mentions. He and other road-racers have consensus with this vehicle since they've had lots of track time. As far as a daily driver, that totally depends on driving habit. A 25mm rear bar is quite excessive for any type of car that intends to take many corners at practically any speed.
(Disclaimer: even though spirited driving is fun, I don't endorse any behaviour that violates the law, or endangers other drivers on public roads.)
(Disclaimer: even though spirited driving is fun, I don't endorse any behaviour that violates the law, or endangers other drivers on public roads.)
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A cheap alternative to buying a new rear bar would be to find a larger 22 or 24 off of a 3rd gen. Im will be starting out with a 24 in the rear from an 86 iroc. I kept the stock 19mm just incase the 24 is too stiff. I will be running sticky 315's too so hopefully it shouldnt be a problem.
Bars can be had as kits (you even save a few bucks vs. getting them individually)....
Here's the thing about rear bars. We have a solid axle car, one that doesn't have a camber curve (no gain or loss of camber when the body rolls so we don't have to reign the axle in like we want to on the front). We tend to spin the RR wheel when coming out of corners hard in lower gears (and rear bars/solid axle makes this more prone to happening because bigger and bigger rear bars acutally try to pick on on the inside rear tire), and when the cars have a good alignment and other things to make the front work better, the rear naturally loosens up.
I'm of the mind that we should maximize the front grip first (and a big bar does that due to keeping a better contact patch on the ground). Adding a larger bar, and a better alignment makes the front stick better, which is already helping the balance of the car greatly. Because of this we don't need as much rear bar in the car. Most of the 25mm kits use that bar because most cars won't/don't/haven't made the best use they can out of the front end. So they slap on a rear to "balance" the car, but at a lower overall grip level.
Here's the thing about rear bars. We have a solid axle car, one that doesn't have a camber curve (no gain or loss of camber when the body rolls so we don't have to reign the axle in like we want to on the front). We tend to spin the RR wheel when coming out of corners hard in lower gears (and rear bars/solid axle makes this more prone to happening because bigger and bigger rear bars acutally try to pick on on the inside rear tire), and when the cars have a good alignment and other things to make the front work better, the rear naturally loosens up.
I'm of the mind that we should maximize the front grip first (and a big bar does that due to keeping a better contact patch on the ground). Adding a larger bar, and a better alignment makes the front stick better, which is already helping the balance of the car greatly. Because of this we don't need as much rear bar in the car. Most of the 25mm kits use that bar because most cars won't/don't/haven't made the best use they can out of the front end. So they slap on a rear to "balance" the car, but at a lower overall grip level.
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Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
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2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
It works great.... we've sold lots of them and have a stiffness very similar to, but 20 pounds lighter than the ST 35/1LE rear bar combination, and you still have to get urethane bushings for the rear bar and have two shipping costs with two different bars.
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www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Charleston Illinois
Thanks Sam. Maybe you could answer another question for me. I need to call bit it is hard from Japan. Have you ever heard of somebody running two different kind of springs. I bought the eibach springs a while back but everybody keeps talking about how the back sags. I want to run true duals over the axle so that scares me. What do think it would do if I was to put eibach on the front and bmr on the rear? I'm going to be installing koni sa at the same time. I have never heard of anybody doing this and wondered if it would work. Any info. would be great.
You can, but then you have a lot more money in springs than you need to spend, and rates that are mis-matched too.
All it takes is some careful research. LS1 Pro-kits are a bit low in the back for some folks, but a lot of people love them. And they really don't "sag" which makes them sound cheap. The issue is the rate is lower than most rear springs. Some folks don't like the fact the springs make the rocker panel level vs. the tops of the wheel wells. And others have a lot more weight in the rear with stereos and so on which makes a softer spring lower.
We generally use LS1 Pro-kits, LT1 Pro-kits (which work great and are completely interchangeable on LS1 cars, but the winding blocks access to a Koni adjuster so might not be the choice for you), Hotchkis and even SLP (others too, but RARELY). Also coil-overs are a popular choice so you aren't stuck with a height you don't like or a spring rate that is insane, and would be the best choice for your concerns. Best part, they only cost a couple hundred bucks more than 1 set of springs, and about the same as two sets of springs and mixing them.
Lots of good options that you can explore that are better solutions to your issue.
All it takes is some careful research. LS1 Pro-kits are a bit low in the back for some folks, but a lot of people love them. And they really don't "sag" which makes them sound cheap. The issue is the rate is lower than most rear springs. Some folks don't like the fact the springs make the rocker panel level vs. the tops of the wheel wells. And others have a lot more weight in the rear with stereos and so on which makes a softer spring lower.
We generally use LS1 Pro-kits, LT1 Pro-kits (which work great and are completely interchangeable on LS1 cars, but the winding blocks access to a Koni adjuster so might not be the choice for you), Hotchkis and even SLP (others too, but RARELY). Also coil-overs are a popular choice so you aren't stuck with a height you don't like or a spring rate that is insane, and would be the best choice for your concerns. Best part, they only cost a couple hundred bucks more than 1 set of springs, and about the same as two sets of springs and mixing them.
Lots of good options that you can explore that are better solutions to your issue.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
Thread Starter
TECH Resident
iTrader: (11)
Joined: Oct 2004
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From: Charleston Illinois
So if I have a 1998 Trans Am With 17x9.5 wheels and 285x40x17 tires eibach pro kit Koni SA shocks The suspension mods as listed above and nothing in the rear but the seat would I be able to run true duals over axle in 2.5" if I got the relocation kit for the phb? You seem to be the most knowledgable. What time is it there so I can try and call sometime? Thank you very much.
right now it's 2:23 ET. You can call me, which is the most advisable thing to do. We usually work 11-7 ET.
You have to decide what's most important to you Duals, or a suspension that works properly. The PHB relocation deal is a joke IMO. It drops the right side of the PHB down, but the axle side stays put, that puts the bar on an angle, and it only gets more screwed up the lower you go. Remember the axle mount never moves regardless of ride height. The geometry gets completely messed up despite what the sales pitch is.
You have to decide what's most important to you Duals, or a suspension that works properly. The PHB relocation deal is a joke IMO. It drops the right side of the PHB down, but the axle side stays put, that puts the bar on an angle, and it only gets more screwed up the lower you go. Remember the axle mount never moves regardless of ride height. The geometry gets completely messed up despite what the sales pitch is.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
Results matter. Talk is cheap. We are miles beyond the success anyone else has had with the 4th gens, and C5, C6, C7 Corvettes,
10 SCCA Solo National Championships, 2008 Driver of they Year, 2012 Driver of Eminence
13 SCCA Pro Solo Nationals Championships
2023 UMI King of the Mountain Champion
