Which Sway Bar???
#1
TECH Resident
Thread Starter
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Charleston Illinois
Posts: 889
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Which Sway Bar???
I was trying to decide between the spohn 32mm solid front sway bar and the strano 35mm hollow front sway bar. I'm putting on eibach kit with the koni sa shocks with the following suspension upgrades: Chrome moly lower control arms, lca relocation brackets, adj. panhard rod w/ poly bushings, a non adj. torque arm and a shock tower brace. Thanks for your opinions.
#6
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (7)
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: MA
Posts: 3,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Without question, put the biggest bar you can in the front. There is no drawbacks to it at all. It helps your car initiate a turn quicker. Instead of the front flexing to the opposite direction for a fraction of a second before turning, it just turns instead
Trending Topics
#11
Someone, probably strano, posted the stifness calculation between a hollow and solid bar. I dont remember how much, but the solid is only marginally stiffer and much heavier.
#14
On The Tree
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Central, Fl
Posts: 193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by stang killer
Hotchkiss makes a 36mm and Stranno makes a 35mm. Both high quality bars. My choice would be one of thoes two.
Yea I don't think there's any drawbacks to going larger, except weight transfer to the rear if your drag racing, and big deal if it cuts off a tenth of your quarter mile, you can always remove it before your going to the track.
#15
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Originally Posted by JAvenger007
weight but solid is also stiffer. some consider 36mm hollow to be bout a 32mm solid, from what ive heard. ANyone able to clarify?
Bars work by twisting, that motion by nature moves the outer portion of the bar much more than the inner part (which is the part "missing" on a hollow bar). The OD is so important that the stiffness of a bar is figured by it's OD to the 4th power. Just 1mm in OD makes a big difference. Going from 32 to 35 is quite huge.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#17
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Considering I took the effort to build a reasonably priced hollow 35, I have to say that's what I recommend. We carry solid 32's and solid 35's, and Hotchkis bars too. But I was fed up with the games. All the kits are messed up in that the ones that have a good sized front (around 35) all had too large a rear (about 25mm). Addco has a 22mm rear, which is good sized in itself but their front @ 32 is too small as a package. So for a long time I bought ST's front, Addco's 22mm rear and sold them as a kit. But they are both solid (and a solid 35 is about 13-14 lbs. more than a 35 hollow), and we incurred a lot of shipping too.
In the end I decided that if nobody was going to do what the car needed IMO, I would and if I was going through the trouble I would have hollow bars at both ends too to save weight.
You can get the bars as a set or for each end. You can't go wrong with a big front bar unless you drag race all the time. But even then, you can unhook the bar for that and use it on the street.....
In the end I decided that if nobody was going to do what the car needed IMO, I would and if I was going through the trouble I would have hollow bars at both ends too to save weight.
You can get the bars as a set or for each end. You can't go wrong with a big front bar unless you drag race all the time. But even then, you can unhook the bar for that and use it on the street.....
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#18
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (9)
Join Date: Apr 2005
Location: ATL/Savannah Georgia
Posts: 1,395
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Sent you an email Sam, mostly concerning a 36/24 combo (hollow front). would 24 be too big for the rear? 3rd gens had that combo so i got some to try but realized they might not fit. And do you sell bushings? (sorry to seem like a hijack, tryin to stay on topic)
#19
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
24 is too large IMO on the rear for more all situations, and I think I saw where you said you had a 3rd gen 36 bar.... It won't fit the 4th gen. Rears will interchange, fronts will not.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!