Bilstiens and Eibach Pro kit.
#1
Bilstiens and Eibach Pro kit.
This is most likely the setup I am going with to lower the car and replace my worn DeCarbons(car has 71k on it). My budget is $700, so I can't get anything to fancy. If you have a better recommendations for $700, I'd love to hear them.
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Houston, TX
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thats basicly the set up I have on my car, but I just have the SLP revalves. SLP only messes with the fronts and the rears are your standard HD's. They change a few things to make it handle the spring a little better, but I could use a little more spring control upfront. No complains about the rears.
#3
TECH Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Houma, LA
Posts: 1,755
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That' s the setup I went with, but it' s time to change out again. From what I' ve read, it looks like I' ll be going with the DMS springs this time around. They' re cheaper and I haven' t heard any complaints to date. The Eibachs on my car have over 100K miles, and the rear springshave been sagging for a while now. Haven' t heard of this problem with the DMS springs.
#4
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (18)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: NW Houston, TX
Posts: 10,036
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Darth Z
Haven' t heard of this problem with the DMS springs.
#5
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
For $700 you can do a much better job than HD's with lowering springs. You can do Revalved Bilstein's and springs (various Eibach, Hotchkis are our choices) for just over that and have shocks valved for your springs and use. You could save $100 and use the SLP shocks, which we also sell, which are better suited for lowering springs than HD's because as stang killer mentioned they are valved a little better. But they are valved for the softer SLP Level 1 springs, NO the rates most lowering springs use. They also take compression damping out, which is ride oriented move and not control oriented one.
You could run Koni's all around, get absolutely great dampers, keep you stock springs but still lower the car a bit since the Koni's have a second perch height on them. Frankly, that's my favorite choice because I don't like really low cars, I like cars that ride firmly but not harshly, and I demand a car that is damped very well. That comes from good shocks. Many folks have this setup and like it a lot. Sure, the shocks are more, but the fact you don't *need* springs allows that money to go to the better dampers.
You could run Koni's all around, get absolutely great dampers, keep you stock springs but still lower the car a bit since the Koni's have a second perch height on them. Frankly, that's my favorite choice because I don't like really low cars, I like cars that ride firmly but not harshly, and I demand a car that is damped very well. That comes from good shocks. Many folks have this setup and like it a lot. Sure, the shocks are more, but the fact you don't *need* springs allows that money to go to the better dampers.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#6
Originally Posted by stang killer
I dont think the DMS springs have been on enough cars long enough to find any problems.
Trending Topics
#10
Originally Posted by Sam Strano
For $700 you can do a much better job than HD's with lowering springs. You can do Revalved Bilstein's and springs (various Eibach, Hotchkis are our choices) for just over that and have shocks valved for your springs and use. You could save $100 and use the SLP shocks, which we also sell, which are better suited for lowering springs than HD's because as stang killer mentioned they are valved a little better. But they are valved for the softer SLP Level 1 springs, NO the rates most lowering springs use. They also take compression damping out, which is ride oriented move and not control oriented one.
You could run Koni's all around, get absolutely great dampers, keep you stock springs but still lower the car a bit since the Koni's have a second perch height on them. Frankly, that's my favorite choice because I don't like really low cars, I like cars that ride firmly but not harshly, and I demand a car that is damped very well. That comes from good shocks. Many folks have this setup and like it a lot. Sure, the shocks are more, but the fact you don't *need* springs allows that money to go to the better dampers.
You could run Koni's all around, get absolutely great dampers, keep you stock springs but still lower the car a bit since the Koni's have a second perch height on them. Frankly, that's my favorite choice because I don't like really low cars, I like cars that ride firmly but not harshly, and I demand a car that is damped very well. That comes from good shocks. Many folks have this setup and like it a lot. Sure, the shocks are more, but the fact you don't *need* springs allows that money to go to the better dampers.
#12
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
ride height is dependent on what springs you chose, or with the Koni's and stock springs you are looking at about a 3/4" drop in front and 1/2" in the rear (not by way of the shock, but by replacing the rear spring isolator).
Revalved shocks come in two flavors, the SLP one-size-fits all meant for Level 1 springs, or the Bilstein's we sell that are Revalved to suit the use/springs. We have a variety of valving rates to best damp the spring rate and give the driver the response he/she is looking for.
Revalved shocks come in two flavors, the SLP one-size-fits all meant for Level 1 springs, or the Bilstein's we sell that are Revalved to suit the use/springs. We have a variety of valving rates to best damp the spring rate and give the driver the response he/she is looking for.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#13
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
Originally Posted by Xsta Z 28
I personally do not like Eibach springs. Ther rears are just way to short and soft . .
There are different Eibach's one can use, so you shouldn't toss a blanket over all of them. Also, you feel that way and that's cool. But many others do not, and that's cool too. I don't feel they are too soft for most cases, and some of the early sets were too short, but by and large that has been remedied.
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#15
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
No, you can't. There is nothing wrong with hitting the bumpstops, and it'll happen with 200 pound rear springs as well. I really wish you guys wouldn't assume things like this. I have clean spots on my axles with 150 pound springs, which are more than 25% stiffer than stock, and on average stiffer than the overall rate of most lowering springs out there.......
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
#16
Originally Posted by Sam Strano
ride height is dependent on what springs you chose, or with the Koni's and stock springs you are looking at about a 3/4" drop in front and 1/2" in the rear (not by way of the shock, but by replacing the rear spring isolator).
Do you have a picture of a car with the Koni and stock springs setup? The Ebiach pro kit is really as low as I would want to go, since Tennessee is hilly and there are some steep driveways.
#17
LS1TECH Sponsor
iTrader: (41)
I can point you to some, but they are on another site.... The look is similar too a Level 1 car, but the front is generally a touch lower. Nowhere as low as a Pro-kit....
__________________
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!
www.stranoparts.com --814-849-3450
18 SCCA National Championships in house, many more for our customers prove we know our stuff.Talk is cheap, results matter.
Check out our KONI prices, our Master Cylinder Brace, and new Xtracker Hub/wheel bearing upgrade kits!