Anything to know before doing a spring swap,
#1
Anything to know before doing a spring swap,
thanks for the heads up, Ill appreciate any info given.
By the way, the project is a 00 SS Convertible, just an fyi.
I guess I could ask also, is it necessary to undo the sway bar links, if so, why?
thanks again
By the way, the project is a 00 SS Convertible, just an fyi.
I guess I could ask also, is it necessary to undo the sway bar links, if so, why?
thanks again
#2
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
http://home.columbus.rr.com/trackbir...stallation.htm
This might help.
As for the rears, just pull the lower shock mounts loose (take the nuts off the back) with the chassis on jack stands and a jack under the differential, lower the axle slightly, pull out the springs, install new ones, jack up the axle and bolt the shocks back to the mounts.
This might help.
As for the rears, just pull the lower shock mounts loose (take the nuts off the back) with the chassis on jack stands and a jack under the differential, lower the axle slightly, pull out the springs, install new ones, jack up the axle and bolt the shocks back to the mounts.
Trending Topics
#8
Banned
iTrader: (14)
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 2,220
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah, the passenger front shock bolt may be so rusted that it won't come off and you'll destroy the shock in the process. I suggest noone attempt a spring swap without new shocks. Once reassembled, grease the bolts really good in case you need to disassemble again in the future.
#9
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
I was amazed last weekend to find that my upper shock nuts were not rusted (I forgot to grease the upper bolts/nuts when I installed them 3 years ago and expected them to be "junk"). From what I can see, the rubber insert in the upper control arm "plate" is designed to seal to the chassis to keep that nut dry. I only know this because I can see where mine was sealed to the chassis and the "clean spot" it left from where it was actually blocking the water/dirt. This is the first car I've seen where it worked as intended and I'm not sure:
A. Why mine worked.
B. Why the rest don't.
It's an elegant solution, if it only worked 99.9% of the time. I didn't originally realize that there was even a seal up there for that job, but that appears to be what the insert in the plate is for. If we could find a way to make that thing actually work, we'd be rich.....
A. Why mine worked.
B. Why the rest don't.
It's an elegant solution, if it only worked 99.9% of the time. I didn't originally realize that there was even a seal up there for that job, but that appears to be what the insert in the plate is for. If we could find a way to make that thing actually work, we'd be rich.....
#10
TECH Addict
iTrader: (11)
Join Date: Feb 2005
Location: Brunswick, GA
Posts: 2,193
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by OneMeanZ
Just be patient when doing the front.
Originally Posted by joblo1978
Yeah, the passenger front shock bolt may be so rusted that it won't come off and you'll destroy the shock in the process. I suggest noone attempt a spring swap without new shocks. Once reassembled, grease the bolts really good in case you need to disassemble again in the future.
for aditional help check out www.ls1howto.com they have instructions for front/rear swap